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Fearful thread part 15 (/6?)

#41
RNV said:
dukeorock spend a good 30 minutes over a few dropped calls (on my part) to answer one question and then it turned into a session of shooting the breeze. Awesome guy. If I ever need one built, Mark @ BNA Audio will be building it. I know the other builders build amazing pieces of audio art as well, but he has helped me and offered to help me further and he is closest to me.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Tony!
 
#42
gwangi said:
Art Of Noise's website is still saying they are a FEarful builder and that is the part that worry's me if you are planing on spending money on having something built.
Here is a company that is advertising that they are a authorized builder of Greenboy's design and they are not even on Greenboy's authorized List.
Here is an example about 5 years ago I was going to have a very reputable person restore my 1983 4001 Rickenbacker, well I sent it to him and he had it for a year and I kept on trying to contact him on what was taking so long and when he finally got back to me he sent my bass back and it wasn't even restored and he actually damaged it by putting little tiny clamp marks on the side of the neck, I was DEVASTATED so I had to send it to another gentleman up in San Francisco for the full restoration and to fix the problem the other A$$#@!E did.
And as far as speaker cabinets go there was one time I almost was going to have a 115 cabinet built by Ear Candy and they where suppose to be a very reputable company and they turned out to rip a whole lot of people off.
So I guess my main concern is who is the most reputable Authorized person to go with as far as having somebody build me a 15/6 bass cabinet.
I've seen some AWESOME examples here on Talkbass but I want to know who is the most reliable and not to mentioned who is the best of the best at building the KILLER 15/6 cabinet for me.
I'm not trying to sound so paranoid but I have been screwed so bad in the past I tend to only trust certain company's like Bergantino, I have owned 2 HS410 and now I have 1 HS410 and Jim Bergantino cabinets I love and have never had a problem with them ever.
I'd really like to get a Bergantino HT115 but can't find one so I thought I would check on a 15/6 cabinet, I just want to know who is the best builder to go with and not get jerked around.
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I was one of the guys that got Royally Screwed by AoN. In a nut shell, it was 5 months and counting to build me a new cab and I basically just gave up. His communications skills were quite poor as I was always initiating emails for updates (every two weeks or so) and oftentimes did not get a response til the 2nd or 3rd email. I'm sure Robby is a nice guy, but customer satisfaction goes beyond being just nice. Anyway, there is alot more to the story, but that's the jist of it. PM for more details if you like.

As to who to choose in terms of an Authorized Builder, I recommend checking out the fEARful forum. See who is active, seems like a nice, helpful guy and who lives closest to you. The list DudeOrock made above looks great to me, but I would have confidence in any of them. Greenboy doesnt mess around, and if one of the ABs dont hold up to his standards they will get their AB status yanked (like AoN) and will lose $$$. On the fEARful facebook page there is also alot of cab pics posted by various AB's and that enables you to check out the quality of their work as well.
 
#45
RNV said:
Thanks, but I think I would trade you for both your cabs. You know what they say, "The grass is always greener."
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I just sold the red guy to a fellow TBer. Quintuplets coming so I have to scale WAY down. :(

The good news is that these things are so freaking massively loud that I think the only thing I'll miss is people's faces when I'm wheeling that massive stack in. People compare a 15/6 to a good 410....man....I think it's more comparable to a 610 for volume. I've never pushed it.

And, unfortunately, it didn't get their in the best of shape. The mid driver isn't working and the grill is getting some bad rattle. I'm thinking the rattle is just me not putting those stand offs. Maybe the two of us use different EQ so he's getting rattle I wasn't (does that make sense?). And the mid driver I'm wondering if us crimping instead of soldering did that.

Luckily, the TBer I sold it to is really cool and handy enough to take a shot at fixing it.
 
#47
Well that part might have been me BEFORE I shipped it. I was giving it a full check over and when playing at LOUD volumes I heard a slight rattle coming from inside...sound coming through the ports only when I played the 10th through 12th frets on my G string....I reached my hand through the port and localized the rattle at where the wire meets the PC board. I built the 15/6/1 and 15/6 side by side and I remember running out of the wire supplied and the only wire we found at the store had thicker insulation....not sure if that hampered the crimping....BUT when I put my finger on the connection, the buzzing stopped. So I blindly tried to cease the buzzing, even put some electrical tape over the area....and it stopped. I was so happy the buzzing stopped it's quite possible that I knocked the connection loose and never realized the mid driver wasn't working. That's my guess....and hope...since it sounds really easy to fix.

I pray it's just a solder there and some grill stand offs and that beast is in perfect playing condition.
 
#48
MSUsousaphone said:
Well that part might have been me BEFORE I shipped it. I was giving it a full check over and when playing at LOUD volumes I heard a slight rattle coming from inside...sound coming through the ports only when I played the 10th through 12th frets on my G string....I reached my hand through the port and localized the rattle at where the wire meets the PC board. I built the 15/6/1 and 15/6 side by side and I remember running out of the wire supplied and the only wire we found at the store had thicker insulation....not sure if that hampered the crimping....BUT when I put my finger on the connection, the buzzing stopped. So I blindly tried to cease the buzzing, even put some electrical tape over the area....and it stopped. I was so happy the buzzing stopped it's quite possible that I knocked the connection loose and never realized the mid driver wasn't working. That's my guess....and hope...since it sounds really easy to fix.

I pray it's just a solder there and some grill stand offs and that beast is in perfect playing condition.
Click to expand...

Did you use the large jack plate by chance? Wondering if he can see what's going on from the back- even using a mirror.

Oh, And when your crowded house arrives- I can store your bass for you. It's no problem. Really.:)
 
#52
Oh you guys. :smug:

jHawk Customs said:
Did you use the large jack plate by chance? Wondering if he can see what's going on from the back- even using a mirror.

Oh, And when your crowded house arrives- I can store your bass for you. It's no problem. Really.:)
Click to expand...

Haha...thanks. ;)

I plan on downsizing (but not downgrading) the Mesa Bass 400+ to the Baer Valkyrie and my pedal board is now squarely safe inside an ATA flight. My whole rig is nice, concise, and portable....or will be.

But, the jack plate is the large ones. He could probably do that. The PC board is connected to the shelf so he should be able to look down on it. He'll be taking the grill off anyways. And I think the baltic birch is sturdy enough to carefully unscrew the 15 and feel safe screwing it back in, right? I figured, if it DID diminish in integrity, he could put some wooden chunks behind the baffle where the screws would go in for extra bracing, right?

I dunno. I think, in the end, it'll be simple stuff and it'll just be my building/shipping pride that will be hurt and a good bit of his time lost. Not cool but better than other scenarios.
 
#53
MSUsousaphone said:
Oh you guys. :smug:



Haha...thanks. ;)

I plan on downsizing (but not downgrading) the Mesa Bass 400+ to the Baer Valkyrie and my pedal board is now squarely safe inside an ATA flight. My whole rig is nice, concise, and portable....or will be.

But, the jack plate is the large ones. He could probably do that. The PC board is connected to the shelf so he should be able to look down on it. He'll be taking the grill off anyways. And I think the baltic birch is sturdy enough to carefully unscrew the 15 and feel safe screwing it back in, right? I figured, if it DID diminish in integrity, he could put some wooden chunks behind the baffle where the screws would go in for extra bracing, right?

I dunno. I think, in the end, it'll be simple stuff and it'll just be my building/shipping pride that will be hurt and a good bit of his time lost. Not cool but better than other scenarios.
Click to expand...

Did you use Recex screws? No problem taking them out.
Yes. Hopefully a quick fix.
 
#54
Toss Dave Homer (Gigmaster Soundworks) on that list as well. He built my cab. I went to his house/shop to pick it up. Right now he is coming up on vacation time from his day job so if anyone has an order his production time should be crazy fast.
Click to expand...

I agree. Dave did a great job on my 12/6. He communicated regularly, answered all of my many questions, and got it to me quickly. Highly recommended!

I finally had a chance to try it out at a gig this week. It was only one set, but I played my upright and it sounded great. The bottom end was amazing; I can't remember when the last time was that I had to turn down the bass on my amp. Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to crank it up, but I have a reggae gig next week which will be its official baptism. Can't wait!
 
#55
Yep. The Recex. Aweomse. Good to hear. We'll be looking to tackle it, tomorrow, so I'll try to update.

Thanks.

(BTW, Gwangi and other fEARful pondering people. That's the customer service you get from authorized fEARful builders even when they didn't build the cab. Imagine how far they'll go for you when it IS something they built. The best of the best.)
 
#56
Thanks Mark (BNA) for the shout out! Goes to show you what a stand-up guy Mark is. I've enjoyed collaborating with greenboy and the other Authorized Builders which is what has made this an enjoyable experience.

I'm sure that whoever you chose on the current list will deliver you an excellent cab. Most people choose based on geography, build time, or if you happen to see a cab on a builder's website or facebook page that you like. I think prices are all pretty much the same. Whoever you go with, I hope you choose fearful! (or one of the other greenboy designs)
 
#57
MSUsousaphone said:
I just sold the red guy to a fellow TBer. Quintuplets coming so I have to scale WAY down. :(

The good news is that these things are so freaking massively loud that I think the only thing I'll miss is people's faces when I'm wheeling that massive stack in. People compare a 15/6 to a good 410....man....I think it's more comparable to a 610 for volume. I've never pushed it.

And, unfortunately, it didn't get their in the best of shape. The mid driver isn't working and the grill is getting some bad rattle. I'm thinking the rattle is just me not putting those stand offs. Maybe the two of us use different EQ so he's getting rattle I wasn't (does that make sense?). And the mid driver I'm wondering if us crimping instead of soldering did that.

Luckily, the TBer I sold it to is really cool and handy enough to take a shot at fixing it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words MSUSousaphone.

I got the mid-driver reconnected, and man did it sound sweet. It was a tough squeeze reconnecting the neg clamp back to the board- the attachment flange on the board kept wanting to bend and we (my drummer and I) were worried that we'd bend it off, but he managed to get it reseated pretty well. If it shakes loose again I may have to try a different approach, but somehow I don't think I will ever subject it to the "shock and awe" that UPS did, lol.

Screwing the 15 back into the baffle seemed to go very well, I am not worried that I stripped anything in that process. I tightened it down pretty tight, maybe 1 to 2 turns less than "all the way", again to avoid stripping the screw grooves in the baffle.

Now to tackle the grill vibration. The standoffs seem like the way to go for me, just to provide damping to the center expanse of the grill that MSU installed. Do you just drive the screw through the standoff and into the baffle? I am worried about destoying the baffle.

What I really want is a way to attach the standoff (that automotive radiator hose a few posts above looks like a great idea...) to the grill directly and just have it press against the baffle, without actually having to sink any screws into the baffle-- is this possible, or should I just screw it into the baffle? Any advice on how to proceed with screwing it into the baffle? Drill a pilot hole first? How deep? (I have the carpentry skills of a moth, so use small words and detailed descriptions please...)
 
#58
To add to Holme's post....I measured the distance from the 15/6/1 I still have's baffle to the grill and it was 1 3/8"......I think the feet/standoff on speakerhardware.com were 1"....it would be a dream to find some feet/standoffs that were close to the gap distance....then the feet could be srewed into the grill and it would sidle up against the baffle like Holme's is looking for. Does that sound right?
 
#60
More field shots of the 12/6/1.

DSCN3207.jpg

I somehow got roped into speaker stand duty because someone forgot to put them in the trailer.
DSCN3215.jpg
 

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