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Fender Highway One Precision- a few thoughts.

i've gotta ask... what the hell is the greasebucket tone control? i know what it's supposed to do, but how? is it just a different capacitor? a little perfboard? is it people?

According to Fender literature, this allows you 'to roll off treble, without boosting bass'. I think that this is erroneous, since the passive tone knob in this circuit is cut only.

I've looked at the circuits. They are out on the Fender site:

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[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

The [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] shows a .100uf 50V cap, a .02uf 50V cap, and a 4.7k ohm 1/4 watt resister used in the 'grease bucket' tone circuit. A standard P bass uses a single .47uf cap or a .100uf, the former is used in most modern circuits, wile the latter was used in many of the vintage Fender basses.

A P Bass circuit (excluding the S1 switching) standard circuit simply allows the signal from the pickup to go to the output jack, but by turning the pot, the shunting of signal to ground through the .47uf or.100uf cap is increased. This is aurally perceived as rolling off the treble. In this arrangement, the high frequency band that is rolled off is fairly wide and the decrease in treble also causes rolloff of other frequencies and overtones, consequently increasing the tonal quality that we perceive as 'thump'.

I think this circuit works the same way, but more precisely trims the high frequencies (Anyone with more electronics background, PLEASE correct me if I've got this wrong. I'm an amateur electronics buff, and could easily have this wrong!). It looks to me that when the knob is fully in one direction, the signal flows fully through the .100uf cap and the signal is also minimally shunted to ground through the .02uf cap and 4.7K ohm resister. As the knob is turned in the opposite direction, less signal is sent through the .100uf cap, but more signal is being shunted through the small cap and resistor. Fully rotated in the opposite direction, the .100uf cap has no effect on the signal, but we see full shunting through the small cap and resistor.

From a sound perspective this means that the .02uf cap w/ 4.7K ohm resistor is filtering out a certain frequency, full time when the tone knob is set for no treble cut. (I have no idea what this frequency is, so if anyone who knows more about this stuff than me can provide the frequencies that are being filtered by the .02uf cap & 4.7K ohm resistor, by a .100uf cap, and by a standard .47uf cap, I would be really appreciative and interested!) As the knob is rolled in the opposite direction, a specific frequency begins to be filtered by the .100uf cap (the same freq as a vintage bass with a .1uf cap) and the filtering by the .02uf cap/4.7k resistor is decreased. At the extreme opposite end of the knob range full treble attenuation through the .100uf cap, while still shunting a hair of the signal through the small cap/resistor combination.

In the end, I did not like the audio effect of the 'grease bucket' tone circuit. As I roll off the tone knob on a P bass, I expect to have some of the highs muted, but I also expect for the tone to get darker and more thumpy. The 'grease bucket' does not do that. As you roll off the treble, there is very little change in the low mid and bass quality of the tone.

As a tone circuit, the 'grease bucket' is more advanced and does the job of reducing the highs without affecting the rest of the tonal spectrum, exactly as intended. It does a better job of cutting only high frequencies, due to it's design.

However, the more 'primitive' single cap tone circuit is the sound most of us associate with a P Bass. I want to hear the other frequencies and overtones attenuated along with the highs...that's what I'm used to from a P Bass.

It's kind of like the story I was told about butter and margarine. Apparently, during WWII butter was rationed and the use of oil based margarine as a substitute became very common. A whole generation of kids grew up eating margarine, many never tasting real butter until they were much older. They found that they preferred the taste of margarine to that of real butter! What we are used to has a determined effect on what we prefer later in life.

I wanted more of a traditional tone, so I replaced my electronics entirely, thereby removing the 'grease bucket'. I put a Fender Original '62 pickup in and loved it for a purely vintage tone. It sounded a little too polite for me. I wanted a little more clarity and bite, so I went with a Lindy Fralin and a single .47uf cap for the tone. I'm perfectly happy with my sound. The only 'improvement' I might ever try would be to have the pickup overwound about 5% for a little more output and low/low-mid fullness, but I'm not in a hurry, if I ever even do it. I would have to already have the bass out of commission or the pickup out for another reason to even consider it. Getting a pickup tweaked just right is an art...I've got it there and don't necessarily want to f**k with it.

Scott
 
It's kind of like the story I was told about butter and margarine. Apparently, during WWII butter was rationed and the use of oil based margarine as a substitute became very common. A whole generation of kids grew up eating margarine, many never tasting real butter until they were much older. They found that they preferred the taste of margarine to that of real butter! What we are used to has a determined effect on what we prefer later in life.

This describes my experience with butter to a tee.

Sorry to threadjack- please carry on...
 
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+1 to virtually everything said here!

However, I have been fortunate in that I have not seen the same problem with the D & G strings. I've currently got her strung with a set of TI Jazz flats, so the small string diameter might have something to do with it.

That said, I like this bass as a good all around bass with a vintage vibe, so I have a more vintage flavored pickup (Lindy Fralin) and keep her strung with flats. I also have a pre-upgrade Highway One bridge, which I'm going to put on when I get up the energy to do a whole setup in terms of intonation, etc.

I also want a deeper, grindy, ballsy P bass tone too, but I've realized than I can't have my cake and eat it too. I can't achieve both of those tonal qualities to the degree that I want in one bass. I'm planning on putting together another P with an edgier pickup (G&L MFD, SD 1/4lb, Dimarzio Model P, Rio Grande Muy Grande for P Bass, or maybe one of these [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]!) and a set of stainless roundwounds. This bass will also be a good home for the BadAss II bridge from my Highway One that I will be swapping out for the more traditional style.

I SOOO wish that Fender would offer a maple fingerboard as an option on the Highway One, since I also adore it's neck. A flat black Highway One with a maple neck and fingerboard would be the ultimate starting point for the bass I mentioned above. However, I don't see that happening since they are trying to keep the price down on the H1 series...the price already went up when they upgraded it. But, one can wish!

That said, if I ever run across any H1 necks, rosewood or not, I'm going to snatch them up for future projects and/or replacements.

Can anyone who has experience with the Highway One necks recommend another neck with a similar width, radius, finish, feel, playability, etc?

Sorry, didn't mean to highjack the thread or anything, but I'm sure the OP would be interested in this, as well.

Thanks!
Scott


First, these are truly excellent instruments and probably the best bang for buck deal on a USA Fender. I've owned some nice P basses (a couple of cool Fenders and a Lakland Glaub Skyline) but this one tops them, much to my surprise. I bought it up a couple of months ago because it felt right in my hands played great- the whole bass vibrated and resonated like it was alive and I simply could not walk away from it. The neck is killer- perfectly straight, level frets, and no deadspots which I thought was very impressive for a production line Fender. And that super resonant body thing- whew! It's good wood, a thin finish, and an amazing neck- not unlike the recipe for the best of the 60's Fenders. After spending some time with the bass though, there were a few small things that bugged me:

1. I noticed that the E and A strings didn't have the same tonality as the D and G. After some experimentation I realized why- it's the bridge saddles. The new BadAss slotted saddles are a great idea, but the E and A strings don't make solid contact with the bridge because the strings are too wide to fit properly in the saddle groove. Instead, the string rides high in the slot making contact only with the upper edges. Not good!! I re-slotted the bridge saddles to suit the string width, which made a tremendous difference. Now the bass sounds even from string to string. Ah...much better.

2. The Greasebucket Tone Circuit. Some people might like it but I wasn't able to get that big fat pillowy P bass tone that we all know and love. People have complained that the Hwy Ones are too bright and while it's true that the pickup included could be better, losing the Greasebucket circuit and rewiring it like a normal P bass will make a big, big difference in being able to warm up the tone. The stock pickup sounds pretty darn good- clear open lows, smooth musical mids, and while it's still a little "toppy" sounding, it's no where near as bright as it was with the stock wiring. I'm considering a Duncan Antiquity for it but I'm not in a hurry- the bass sounds really good right now.

...and finally, one very minor "matter of taste" issue:

The BA bridge is a great design, but it's not ideal for all basses. I love it on my thick dipped poly finished Fender Jazz because the enhanced midrange response that the extra mass of the bridge brings makes up for the negative effects of the thick finish. It's a perfect match-up on that bass. Thinner finishes usually mean that the wood gets to vibrate freely...more resonance and punch! The Hwy One with it's thin nitro finish has that in spades-- and to my ears, the BA bridge kind of pushes the midrange response over the top to the point where it might be too much for some people. I did install a "vintage style" Fender bridge for a while which definitely brought out the traditional P tones and sounded really lovely. I recently put the BA back on the Fender so I could use the vintage bridge on a different bass-- I think the sound I'm looking for lies in a compromise of the two bridge designs. The Gotoh maybe?

As for strings on this bass, I experimented with a few different .105-.045 sets: GHS Boomers, DR Nickel Sunbeams, R.Cocco Nickels, Sadowsky flats, as well as GHS Pressurewound Mediums- all great strings that sounded good. Just for kicks I tried the .100-.045 D'Addario Chrome set and despite them being lighter than what I'd normally use, they really sound excellent on this bass.

The satin finish is already starting to shine up a little from normal use and I'm considering buffing it out to a nice nitro glow. I added a Fender tort pickguard and the thumb (finger?) rest- check it out:

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TalkBass is such a great resource- love it here! Since I've gotten so much from reading everyone elses reviews, I hope you don't mind me posting one of my own. Thanks y'all.
 
In the end, I did not like the audio effect of the 'grease bucket' tone circuit. As I roll off the tone knob on a P bass, I expect to have some of the highs muted, but I also expect for the tone to get darker and more thumpy. The 'grease bucket' does not do that. As you roll off the treble, there is very little change in the low mid and bass quality of the tone.

The Greasebucket circuit dampens the lowend resonant peak of a standard tone control.
 
I brought the bass to a rehearsal the other day, plugging into a GK 800RB and a Dietz 2-15 cab, and it didn't take long for me to realize that finally I had a Precision that I truly liked the sound of and enjoyed playing. I never could get comfortable with a 1.75" nut after years and years of playing Jazz basses- the Hwy One 1.60" nut width feels like a perfect compromise. And the bass sounded great! At this point I can only assume that I'll have equally positive results with both my Ashdown or SVT and Bergantino 610 cab. My Ashdown (crAshdown?) is in the shop however, so I'll have to wait a bit on that.

Here's what I heard with the stock pickup and traditional .047 cap in the tone control: With the tone wide open, fingerstyle playing sounded solid, even, and clear and had a nice point to the upper mids when using a pick. Rolling the tone control back halfway gave me that pillowy P bass bottom we all love along with more controlled presence in the upper mids- excellent rock tone for sure! With the tone control rolled all the way back, it sounded typically dark and chewy but still had a little kungfu going on in the midrange too- as dark as I need it to be, without being murky. I'm glad I changed the tone circuit out- what a difference it made! And while I know there are better pickups out there, the stock pickup really isn't missing anything sonically so I'm keeping it in. I'm going to put on the Gotoh bridge before I start dropping in other pickups.

The only real complaint I had was with my own set-up job but I'll admit to having some OCD tendancies where that's concerned. I'm lovin' the Chromes but those things are pretty snappy sounding straight out of the bag! They're starting to settle down a little and in a month or so I bet they'll be perfect. The only other thing I plan on adding to the bass is the chrome pickup cover and a bone nut- beyond that, I'm stoked have a Precision bass that I feel comfortable playing and that sounds so good! Best $578 I've ever spent. Now I need a red Hwy One Jazz...it never ends does it? :help::help:
 
I added a GraphTech nut to mine...it's black plastic impregnated with teflon. It supposedly introduces less friction at the nut. I don't know if it does, but I've always liked them.

Other than the electronics, which I always change (Fralin pup, CTS pots, ceramic cap, grounding plate, SwitchCraft jack, cloth wiring), that's really it. Although, as I said before, the BadAss II will be replaced with a vintage bridge. I feel it is wasted on a bass that I'm gonna keep flatwounds on.

...and I got rid of the goofy looking white pickguard. Not to offend anyone, you may like white on certain colors, but I don't like white guards on anything but white basses (maybe on black). I prefer a black guard on almost any color, except tort on a few colors, and the gold anodized is cool on vintage white. My burst wears black.

I agree the stock pickup on these is great. I was going for perfection on this one, but if it wasn't going to be my number 1, I probably would have left it. It sounds almost as good as a Fender Original 62 (a little darker, not much).

I just don't think these basses can be beat...in the Fender line that is ;)

I'm gassing for a Black Highway One P w/ black guard and a MIM Classic 50's Maple P bass neck (1.75"), Delano Pickup (the one with the BIG pole pieces), and some stainless rounds, strung through the body with a BadAss III bridge.

Then I want a Highway One Jazz in black, blond, or burst with a tort guard, BadAss II, and Fralin pickups w' grounding plates.

So, no, it never, ever ends.......;)
 
. . . the BA bridge kind of pushes the midrange response over the top to the point where it might be too much for some people. I did install a "vintage style" Fender bridge for a while which definitely brought out the traditional P tones and sounded really lovely.

I agree. I have a "pre-upgrade" Highway 1 P, so it came with the Grease Bucket tone circuit but not the BA II or the graphite reinforcement rods in the neck. I tried a BA II for awhile, but to my ears the bass lost a lot of it's "P-ness" :eyebrow: (which is of course a terrible thing). It definitely pushed the mids, reduced the thump factor and made the bass sing more than growl.

I've gone back to the standard Fender bridge and I've got it strung with medium Chromes. I'm not a fan of the Fender bridge when it comes to setup, but IMO it just sounds better, especially with flats. The only mod I've done to the bass at this point is I swapped out the pups for 62's, which I like much better. I found the standard pups to be a bit hollow sounding, especially on the D and G strings. The 62's fixed that, and they seem to pack a little more output as well.

I am curious to hear what people think of the newer "high mass" bridge that is on the 2008 American models.
 
I have a BAII on my HW1 Jazz and i noticed a different tone when i changed. Im not sure if its better or not but as the old bridge was falling apart i had to get something to replace it. The BAII seems ok for me, no complaints other than its size.
As my HW-One P came with one fitted i thought "great, its a bridge i already know". But, i would love to have a cover on it. I have one but it doesnt fit.

So my question is what, other than a Fender standard bridge, would be a good replacement? I want something that wont fall apart but also something that will fit under a standard cover.

A bit OT but i just got a Lakland duck Dunn as i wanted another P with aJ azz neck. Its a lovely bass, great finish and very fast neck and the lowest action i have played (and this is straight out of the box) but i must say that my HW-One P makes me grin and feel like i can play anything. The DD just felt ok but made me think why am i spending almost twice what the HW-One cost and its not feeling right. Again, its down to the neck IMO. This HW1 Jazz neck is just perfect for my hand. Guess im just saying that Fender seem to have got it right with the HW-One/1 series. Good middle ground between the MIM's and USA Standard (i know they are made in the USA anyway).
 
but the E and A strings don't make solid contact with the bridge because the strings are too wide to fit properly in the saddle groove. Instead, the string rides high in the slot making contact only with the upper edges. Not good!! I re-slotted the bridge saddles to suit the string width, which made a tremendous difference. Now the bass sounds even from string to string. Ah...much better.

I would think that the current American bridge would have the same problem since the E saddle has the 3 very narrow grooves. They would work nicely for a tapered E but anything else would also ride up high on the edges of the groove and not seat down into it.
 
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Fender Standard pickguard is a perfect fit, no mods at all.

I haven't noticed any string balance problems with mine. I put Fender flats on it and the strings sit in saddle grooves just fine. This bass has a big, resonant sound unplugged and just kills plugged in. I was thinking of possibly modding the electronics, but I'll leave them be for now.
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Fender Standard pickguard is a perfect fit, no mods at all.

I haven't noticed any string balance problems with mine. I put Fender flats on it and the strings sit in saddle grooves just fine. This bass has a big, resonant sound unplugged and just kills plugged in. I was thinking of possibly modding the electronics, but I'll leave them be for now.
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pbody.jpg

Beautiful! I love that burst finish! I am getting a Highway One Jazz bass in that finish, and can't wait to pick it up and string it with flats!!