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Fender Mustang Club

#622
lowplaces said:
The quarter pounder is on my short list but I have no idea what way to go with the bridge p/up.

I'm curious about one of those stacked p/up designs.
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I've never heard a stacked-coil pickup that sounded anything like a proper single-coil. Split-coil designs are much better. I have a set of Fralin Split Coil Jazz pickups in my Jazz bass, and they're terrific, so I've thought of putting one in my Mustang PJ's bridge position. The Zexcoil J-bass bridge pickup is another possibility. I love the Zexcoil Strat pickups, so I would expect their J-bass pickups to be great too.
 
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#623
Craig4003 said:
I've never heard a stacked-coil pickup that sounded anything like a proper single-coil. Split-coil designs are much better. I have a set of Fralin Split Coil Jazz pickups in my Jazz bass, and they're terrific, so I've thought of putting one in my Mustang PJ's bridge position. The Zexcoil J-bass bridge pickup is another possibility. I love the Zexcoil Strat pickups, so I would expect their J-bass pickups to be great too.
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Thanks for the suggestions for consideration.

You know I had an Ibanez tmb30 for a couple of days and the stock pickups on them we're quite nice. Both p/ups were hot enough to get my pre amp tube in my Ampeg PF-50T's breaking up early turning the gain up.

With the stock p/ups on the Mustang I have to crank the gain knob much higher, and to get an actual pleasing breakup, I need to use a clean boost. That allows me more range with the gain knob.

I dunno, it may be worth a shot at finding someone over on the Talman Club that replaced their stock TMB30 p/ups and would sell the stock ones cheap.
 
#625
Paulabass said:
One-A couple of issues with the switch- They ran a ground wire to the switch, which is connected to a useless 1 square inch of shielding tape. A big waste of time. The switch collects static till you discharge it, then it works right for a while, and round, and round.... Mustang PJ are only shielded in the pickup cavity, but not in the control cavity, and the rout going to the switch, it's as bad as no shielding at all.

Two- It's a really crappy switch. A short Switchcraft will fix everything. (also known as a Gibson part- short Les Paul switch)

Half an hour with some good shielding tape, and your Mustang will run a quiet as the format will allow.
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So if I were to shield it, just cover the back of the pickguard in shielding tape and I should be good?
 
#626
Sub41 said:
I love my Mustang PJ and would really like to see a 30" P Bass. I know they released a P Bass Junior a number of years ago, but it had a 28.xx" scale length and a 3/4 size body and no tone knob. I'd like a 30"-30.5" scale with a standard body size. Since I'm just dreaming, I'll add a maple fretboard to that.
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G19Tony said:
Maruszczyk Instruments - JAKE 4p+ in Red burst - Used - Very Light

That is very nice. :woot:
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That's a good price for that bass. I have an amazing 30" Maruszczyk P/MM. It and my CIJ Mustang are my only two players right now.

I would highly recommend ordering a custom SS P from them. Lots of options and a really fair price for a quality one-of-a-kind bass.
 
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#627
secondbestcody said:
So if I were to shield it, just cover the back of the pickguard in shielding tape and I should be good?
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One of these design to fit the Mustang PJ pickguard would be golden.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

If enough of us would want one, and someone who has replaced their pickguard was send it in as a template, Mr. Callaham may make up a batch.

A few years ago I installed one on a Classic Vibe Stratocaster with the set of Klein S6 p/ups and it was very quiet. The control cavity of that guitar had the standard shield paint already in it.

No need for ground straps across the pots, and no fear of the shield tape or foil tearing.

115703-9f823e17ec4e316293ff2ce74f98ea2a.jpg
 
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#628
lowplaces said:
One of these design to fit the Mustang PJ pickguard would be golden.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

If enough of us would want one, and someone who has replaced their pickguard was send it in as a template, Mr. Callaham may make up a batch.

A few years ago I installed one on a Classic Vibe Stratocaster with the set of Klein S6 p/ups and it was very quiet. The control cavity of that guitar had the standard shield paint already in it.

No need for ground straps across the pots, and no fear of the shield tape or foil tearing.

View attachment 3085586
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I was just going to get some copper shielding tape off amazon and use that. But if this does kick off, I have the mint guard for mine that I’m never going to use.
 
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#630
Just talked to a staff member at Calliham and she doesn't think he would be willing to do it for the smaller quantities we would want. 50 wouldn't even be enough.

So, I'll just see if I can source the material with the same specs and see what is involved with cutting one.
 
#633
Found this at Lowe's.
Link Removed

It's 6063 alloy vs 6061 on the Callaham and just .008 " thicker than the Callaham.

6061 electrical properties = 32.5-39.2 nOhm
6063 = 30-35 nOhm
I'm not informed enough to know if it would make a difference for shielding applications.

Looks like one sheet would be enough for two shield plates.

Cutting the pickup holes would be the most tedious I suppose.

I may run out there and take a look. Says my closest Lowes has them in in stock.
 
#635
mikeyjm2 said:
Not sure to be honest, GT... but by the weight of it and reading up on what was commonly used as body wood then my guess is yes. You can't really make it out in the pic (washed out) but the grain looks like it also.
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It sure seems like it & that would be period-consistent. Is it particularly heavy?

Getting an ash Mustang is on my to-do list. I admit I'm not a 'tonewood' guy, but damn that bass looks sweet. :)

GT
 
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#636
J-Mags said:
Same here. It's not terrible but they could be smoother. That's a difference between 2011 Indonesia Squier and 2018. Even the Bronco basses have smoother frets now. Otherwise, it seems awesome so far. I'm gonna have a luthier friend file the fret ends and then put Chromes on it, although part of me wants to stick with some round wounds. One thing I really like about it is the neck. It's got the usual Jazz Bass nut width, but it feels more like a shrunk down P-Bass neck.
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Yeah, the profile's a bit different to the CIJ model. (Different radius). It's a good feeling neck w/nice depth to it, IMHO.

Mustang + chromes = a match made in heaven.

I haven't had problem w/long scale strings, but you'll have issues w/the silks on flatwounds if you do. For Chromes I use the medium scale ones & they're perfect on it.

Enjoy!
GT
 
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#637
GoesThump said:
Yeah, the profile's a bit different to the CIJ model. (Different radius). It's a good feeling neck w/nice depth to it, IMHO.

Mustang + chromes = a match made in heaven.

I haven't had problem w/long scale strings, but you'll have issues w/the silks on flatwounds if you do. For Chromes I use the medium scale ones & they're perfect on it.

Enjoy!
GT
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Yeah, I love GHS flats on my Slammer, but they're really dark (partly because it's a darker sounding bass). I'm playing 60s garage through 80s punk with my band & playing the new Mustang made me see how rounds could provide a little more support for the guitar. But I also love the feeling of playing super hard with flatwounds and singing at the same time and all you hear is this clicky thump.
 
#639
Alright gents talk me down. I'm thinking of selling my Mustang and other mid level instruments for a higher level 'the one'.

I came to the Mustang from a Precision largely because on a 34" scale I cannot go from fret 1 to 4 without shifting but on the Mustang I can. That hasn't changed of course but it is less of an issue now that I have more time playing.

As to why I'm even considering returning to a long scale... down tuning to D standard, drop D and half step down as well as higher fret access. But am I just setting myself up to being right back here again in six months when I come to the same decision as last time? :banghead:
 

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