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Fender Mustang Club

My Pawn Shop Mustang bass strings through the body, so I thought they all did. I wonder if that bridge is available for purchase...?

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The PJ is the only Mustang bass that does NOT have holes drilled in the body for a string-through bridge setup.

The standard "paddle-style" Mustang bass bridge is only found on the original 1966-1981 USA models , 2002 CIJ Reissues, 2011 Squire Vintage Modified series, 2013 MIM Pawn Shop Special models, and the new 2019 American Performer series that features a modified version with square corners instead of rounded. I cannot find these bridges for sale anywhere, except on outdated web pages that list the part, but note that it is "no longer available". If you're lucky enough to find a used one, they are usually listed for somewhere in the neighborhood of $200.
 
This is the bridge that came on my Fender Adam Clayton Signature Jazz Bass. I recently added it to my Squire Vintage Modified Jaguar Bass when I had it refinished. It's another solid option.

https://www.amazon.com/Fender-Ameri...s+bass+bridge&qid=1557422270&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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Yep, that's the one I was referring to. Vintage string spacing and string-through design in a "hi-mass" format. Still, eager to try out the Kickass and Fender Hi-mass bridges on a couple of my other builds without the string-through holes.
 
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Looking forward to a review!

Some quick thoughts after my gig tonight... The gig was a corporate gig. Half jazz on upright, half dance stuff on the electric. Mostly R&B and some rock. I raced home with the Mustang when I got it and quickly installed a set of TI Jazz Flats, which were all I had in the string box today. Took it to the gig and did a quick setup/intonation. My first impressions were that it feels great. Really nice feeling neck. Nut was cut pretty well and the fret work is good. Tonally it took me a little to get used to where the low end sits. I had to cut bass and leave the mids set fairly flat to get it where I like it. The balance isn't perfect(its a little neck heavy), but I have one of the high mass Fender bridges on order, so that should correct it a bit. So far, my impressions are pretty positive!
 
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The PJ is the only Mustang bass that does NOT have holes drilled in the body for a string-through bridge setup.

The standard "paddle-style" Mustang bass bridge is only found on the original 1966-1981 USA models , 2002 CIJ Reissues, 2011 Squire Vintage Modified series, 2013 MIM Pawn Shop Special models, and the new 2019 American Performer series that features a modified version with square corners instead of rounded. I cannot find these bridges for sale anywhere, except on outdated web pages that list the part, but note that it is "no longer available". If you're lucky enough to find a used one, they are usually listed for somewhere in the neighborhood of $200.

Need to make a correction on the production dates of the CIJ Mustang bass. I can't find any official information, but I'm seeing these Mustangs dated from as early as 1993 to as late as 2004.
 
I have been lurking on this thread for a couple of month and now I'm here to join the club. I have recently purchased two MIM stangs:

IMG_0142.JPG

The red mustang has TI flats, and the seaform mustang has Fender of 5250 rounds. I usually put flats on everything but I am entertaining the idea of have at least one bass strung with rounds.
The Squire Jag SS is going to be fretless in the not to distant future.
 
Thanks for all the great information! And the number! I need to add that to my sig line.

As for the Jazz bass...first, it's a beautiful bass and it sounds awesome. I am not nearly a good enough player to do it justice to be honest. I took a 17 year break and though I've come a long way in recovering what chops I once had, I do find it tougher to play than the Mustang (and my recently acquired Squier VM Jaguar SS). Second...it is HEAVY. That's why I call it "Behemoth" these days...And oddly enough, I am playing more than I did when I used to play it. My late 80s/90s band was showcase/originals and we rarely did more than one set. This current band is mostly originals but we do some covers too and sometimes do three set nights (most of our gigs seem to be two sets). I can't really at this point in my life see playing the Jazz for an entire night. It's hard for me to find a comfortable practice position for it now -- wonky shoulders so I actually prefer to practice standing up -- and yeah. Heavy.

I'll never part with it -- it represents a huge chunk of my life and I do love it -- but it's no longer my everyday bass.

I wish I still had the bass I traded/sold to buy it -- a Music Master. But given that I paid $325 for that Jazz bass, I can't complain. Too much.

OK! If everyone gets to show of their bridge then I want in too!
Bob
IMG_20190419_182457.jpg
 
Must of picked up a bug on the Least Coast, ended up in the Hospital to clean up the old wind pipes and exterminate all the bugs. But I am well and back.

No hometown, Navy, or celebrity bass players in this post, I promise. All about bass.

First I have taken the dive and started one on one formal lessons to retrieve what I lost in the stroke 4 years ago especially in technique. The first section is losing the right thumb and going to alternating 1-2 finger plucking. (That's what he calls it). I call it "I have no idea what I am doing". Further info to follow.

Secondly No NBD. NAD! Had the opportunity to get my hands on a Hartke LH500 on sale. Now there is a change and a half. Tube preamp in combo with Class D amp. Weighs a ton. Came in 3 combined shipping boxes one inside another all inside the third. Not used to that weight.

My desire for the change had to do with sound and tone after being able to hook up to a Ampeg SVT stack and hear what I was missing. Not able to afford the SVT but after a lot of research and reviews I came to the decision that this was the best in my price range.

I was very disappointed with reviews and problem lists on the Ampeg PF500 as I love the ampeg sound but this Hartke is as close as I have found without being a Ampeg.

I have heard my 'Stang do things that I haven't herd (hahaha Flo) before. Thump. Not thud. Thump. Right in the middle of the gut, which IMHO is what bass playing is all about. I haven't had much more time to get further but that is to come.

Well that's enough for now. I think I will go and wake the kids next door from their naps. Makes their parents REAL amused when that happens (sarcastic grin).

Ride hard in the horde all.

Bob
 
Fender makes a decent “higher mass” bridge that at least hides the string balls. They go for about $35. IMO Hipshot bridges are the best for the money, and you can find them used here in the classifieds if you’re patient. You want the Fender mount variety to avoid drilling new holes in the body. You can custom order a 17mm string spacing which gives you a little more room on the edges of the fretboard, but might be a problem if you still play your Jazz, which is 19mm. I have the B model on my MIM mustangs and the Vintage model on my Musicmaster. I recommend Bestbassgear for buying new. If funds are tight, I think you would get better value buying Hipshot replacement tuners and keeping the stock bridge. You would be amazed at how much easier setting and holding tune would be.
Good luck!

What he said. But I recommend that you do check out eBay. That is where I found mine and it was a twofer. One chrome one black. Silly old me won the auction with a $22 bid for two count 'em 2.
Bob
 
I have been lurking on this thread for a couple of month and now I'm here to join the club. I have recently purchased two MIM stangs:

View attachment 3414739
The red mustang has TI flats, and the seaform mustang has Fender of 5250 rounds. I usually put flats on everything but I am entertaining the idea of have at least one bass strung with rounds.
The Squire Jag SS is going to be fretless in the not to distant future.

How do you like the Jaguars SS?
 
I have one with a 2016 serial#. I got it when the P/Js were first released.

I agree with Duder to a point. As Fender guitars are manufactured modularly dating a instrument by the headstock serial number is ify at best. Even Fender states that the year in the serial number should be taken plus or minus 4 years. Because the neck could have been made prior to the body and the electronics placed at the end of the assembly. Example: My MIM PJ has a s/n beginning with MX17------ giving it a 2017 model. BUT the butt of my neck has a 2016 pencil date AND my body has sticker with a 2015 date. (Making of the components began in 2015 but the Mustang PJ Bass was not released until 2016).

Unlike Gibsons which are made from a single piece of wood where the s/n is applied first and the Fender s/n is applied last.

So the Fender s/n date is more of a assembly date rather than a manufactured date.

What does this all mean. Absolutely nothing. For registration and advertising my 'Stang is a 2017. Even though purchased in Nov of 2016. The genius of Leo Fender was the modularity of the instrument to compete with Gibson. Break a Gibson neck or headstock you just flushed what you paid for that bass. Break your 'Stangs neck call Wormouth or Stratosphere and you could be playing in 2 days.

So all in all what I just posted is a little history and background on serial number dating on modern instruments. IMHO serial numbers become vital when collecting vintage instruments for authentication and proof of legitimacy. I have a lot more but for now that's enough. You probably fell asleep back at "I agree with Duder".


Bob
 
The high mass bridge makes a nice difference. I'll post pics of mine soon, I just got it on Craigslist 2 weeks ago and love it. It now has a high mass bridge, a hipshot on the e string, and dimarzio p/j pickups which have no noise and sound great. I liked the sound of the stock pickups but the noise from the J was not working for me. Labella flats on there now too, and I rolled the fingerboard edges and smoothed out the fret ends.

I've been doing a lot of sound gigs lately and haven't been able to gig with this yet but I'm looking forward to it.

Quick question please. Did you roll the fretboard and smooth the frets yourself or did you have it done. I have a specific reason for asking.
Thank you
Bob
 
I have been lurking on this thread for a couple of month and now I'm here to join the club. I have recently purchased two MIM stangs:

View attachment 3414739
The red mustang has TI flats, and the seaform mustang has Fender of 5250 rounds. I usually put flats on everything but I am entertaining the idea of have at least one bass strung with rounds.
The Squire Jag SS is going to be fretless in the not to distant future.

Nice collection bcbckr! Love the double set of 'stangs! Welcome to our increasingly crowded paddock on TB.

I also have TI flats on mine, as well as on my 73 PBass. Those strings, unlike their player, just keep getting better and better.

I still run Rotosound 77s on my MM Sterling though. Its maple neck can handle their much higher tension. I doubt the Mustang could without adjusting its virgin truss rod, and I know my PBass (rosewood fretboard) can't. I've been playing the TIs on my Mustang for over a year now and the neck is still perfectly straight.

@bcbckr = #72
 
Nice collection bcbckr! Love the double set of 'stangs! Welcome to our increasingly crowded paddock on TB.

I also have TI flats on mine, as well as on my 73 PBass. Those strings, unlike their player, just keep getting better and better.

I still run Rotosound 77s on my MM Sterling though. Its maple neck can handle their much higher tension. I doubt the Mustang could without adjusting its virgin truss rod, and I know my PBass (rosewood fretboard) can't. I've been playing the TIs on my Mustang for over a year now and the neck is still perfectly straight.

@bcbckr = #72
Thanks for the number!