Fender pre-CBS Club: pics mandatory!

[Hillbilly Sam]

Reason I asked is I have a Vintera II P bass that's supposed to be like an early 60s bass and it is in fact about .75" thick.
Personally I prefer a much fatter neck but I wouldn't complain of I had a vintage one.

As you see, neck thicknesses of that era vary (more or less) slightly from unit to unit: from what I've gathered, most early 60s P basses range between low .70"s to mid .80" at the first fret.

Your Vintera II 60s PB would certainly fall into the "thinner" (front to back) category. I also prefer fatter (thicker/deeper) neck profiles, and my experience is that all the 60 Ps (vintage, reissues, inspired...you name it) I've tried feel thin as long as they're 1.75" wide and have this C shape profile.
Obviously some feel thinner than others but, overall, I still consider this a thin neck in comparison to the soft V, V or U found among the 51-57 Ps.
Also, posterior Ps with the B neck (1.625" nut) are and feel substantially thicker, although they're narrower at the nut...
So here goes that, in case it might be of use to you (or anyone)!

 

[kurpak]

If we're talking about pre CBS rosewood precisions from 59-64, the most consistent thing I've seen are basses from 63 have much fatter necks than any other year. 59, 60, 61 usually medium thin all the way down to super thin, 62's I've had were slightly thicker, then in 63 they go really fat like .85" I think the Pino custom shop is .83 modeled after that time frame.
I've never owned a 64\65 but those seem to be all over the place, and then you get to 66, 67 and they get fat again before going to the B neck more modern C shape in the late 60s\70s which is low .8s I think.
1959 on the left, fatty 1963 on the right.

 

[Hillbilly Sam]

If we're talking about pre CBS rosewood precisions from 59-64, the most consistent thing I've seen are basses from 63 have much fatter necks than any other year. 59, 60, 61 usually medium thin all the way down to super thin, 62's I've had were slightly thicker, then in 63 they go really fat like .85" I think the Pino custom shop is .83 modeled after that time frame.
I've never owned a 64\65 but those seem to be all over the place, and then you get to 66, 67 and they get fat again before going to the B neck more modern C shape in the late 60s\70s which is low .8s I think.
1959 on the left, fatty 1963 on the right.
View attachment 7274490

Great info and amazing picture , thank you so much!

Slight detail: the CS Pino PB is .86" deep at the 1st fret and 1.73" wide at the nut (according to the floor traveler). And according to my experience, it definitely felt chunkier as well (I think being a tad narrower plus thicker front to back contributed to that feeling).
Although, overall, that profile still felt into the "wide and flat" category for me. But I'm aware this is subjective and a matter of taste...

 

[JPMcGuire]

Sold both an 58 annd 62p with thin necks and got one killer 59p. The extra beef in the neck offers a tone improvement for me. Neck is .845 at 1st. I prefer it. This bass is the most versatile imo. My 73j is similar at first fret but with narrow nut. For gigging/live etc the maple alder fenders are the sweet spot imo. Both 8lbs 15oz which is ideal weight for tone and balance etc imo

 

[Bluesgrunt]

Sold both an 58 annd 62p with thin necks and got one killer 59p. The extra beef in the neck offers a tone improvement for me. Neck is .845 at 1st. I prefer it. This bass is the most versatile imo. My 73j is similar at first fret but with narrow nut. For gigging/live etc the maple alder fenders are the sweet spot imo. Both 8lbs 15oz which is ideal weight for tone and balance etc imo

Out of curiosity do you recall the thickness at the 1st fret on the two basses you sold were
I know sometimes a small amount can make a big difference

 

[Mr.Fingers]

my experience is that all the 60 Ps (vintage, reissues, inspired...you name it) I've tried feel thin as long as they're 1.75" wide and have this C shape profile.

The American Vintage '63 with 0.825" and American Original 60 which is a fraction of a millimeter thinner due to the radius difference are definitely on the more chunky side (the AV62 necks are noticeably thinner). They also have the full 1.75" nutwidth (and not the slightly slimmed down one from the AV II 1960 P-bass)

 

[JPMcGuire]

Out of curiosity do you recall the thickness at the 1st fret on the two basses you sold were
I know sometimes a small amount can make a big difference

62p like 0.79”
58p like 0.79”
Both very similar and thin

My new to me 59p is 0.845”

Yes. Feels very different. Honestly both you can easily get used to. I think the thinker necks have better mids tone wise. The thicker necks I find less hand fatigue once you adjust to them.

 

[bnnttlttljhn]

First post here.. long time lurker.

Here's my hippie stripped L series. Serial & pots puts it in 63.
Sounds heavenly with some TI flats.

 

[Lucky Chuck]

Such mojo...

 

[powdercoater]

Hi Pre CBS':
This is Scott.
I have been wishing to be a member of the Pre CBS Society (LOL!) for some time, now is that time.
I am fairly new to bass coming from a drumming background, and now I am a bass obsessed 62 year old. Lessons twice a week and play every day if I can. I still suck, but I endeavor to change that soon!
Here is my first submission. If I am accepted I will be happy to send the information on my other qualified prized possession (well we are all just really caretakers I believe).
This is my all OG 1963 Jazz. I did have the hardened foam under the pickup's replaced since that affected the sound and I could not see keeping it there for the sake of just saying it was there. I play it! Setting the proper pickup height was important to me.
I am technically the third owner. I purchased it through Mass Street Music and they kindly connected me with the previous owner. He purchased this with his paper route money in 1965 from his MUSIC TEACHER! What a score. He gigged it all over Nebraska and Kansas and still hurts when he thinks about having to have sold it (arthritis). But I stay in touch with him and play her at every opportunity. Ryan at LA Guitar Repair did the change of the foam and set her up with LaBella Flats. It sounds incredible and it's very light. Serial #L11130. The matching custom leather strap is from Freddie Matara in NY.
I am way happy to be playing this gem and sharing her with my other musician friends when we get together. Fun, fun, fun. This forum has been very helpful in my new bass journey and I am thankful to the moderators and all of the tribe for your sincere thoughts and insights.

 

[Lucky Chuck]

Yup, that's a beauty! Enjoy!

 

[powdercoater]

TY LC.

 

[mikeswals]

Hey, I'm just here for the Jazz Basses! And that one is very nice, congrats

Mine is a close sibling at L15xxx serial.

 

[Mastermold]

Hi Pre CBS':
This is Scott.
I have been wishing to be a member of the Pre CBS Society (LOL!) for some time, now is that time.
I am fairly new to bass coming from a drumming background, and now I am a bass obsessed 62 year old. Lessons twice a week and play every day if I can. I still suck, but I endeavor to change that soon!
Here is my first submission. If I am accepted I will be happy to send the information on my other qualified prized possession (well we are all just really caretakers I believe).
This is my all OG 1963 Jazz. I did have the hardened foam under the pickup's replaced since that affected the sound and I could not see keeping it there for the sake of just saying it was there. I play it! Setting the proper pickup height was important to me.
I am technically the third owner. I purchased it through Mass Street Music and they kindly connected me with the previous owner. He purchased this with his paper route money in 1965 from his MUSIC TEACHER! What a score. He gigged it all over Nebraska and Kansas and still hurts when he thinks about having to have sold it (arthritis). But I stay in touch with him and play her at every opportunity. Ryan at LA Guitar Repair did the change of the foam and set her up with LaBella Flats. It sounds incredible and it's very light. Serial #L11130. The matching custom leather strap is from Freddie Matara in NY.
I am way happy to be playing this gem and sharing her with my other musician friends when we get together. Fun, fun, fun. This forum has been very helpful in my new bass journey and I am thankful to the moderators and all of the tribe for your sincere thoughts and insights.

Awesome score! I will get around updating the member list and get you your number soon!

 

[powdercoater]

Thank you Mike. I have seen your posts in the past.
These are works of art that you can play, unreal.
My amp is warming up now!

 

[Bass4ThePublic]

Hi Pre CBS':
This is Scott.
I have been wishing to be a member of the Pre CBS Society (LOL!) for some time, now is that time.
I am fairly new to bass coming from a drumming background, and now I am a bass obsessed 62 year old. Lessons twice a week and play every day if I can. I still suck, but I endeavor to change that soon!
Here is my first submission. If I am accepted I will be happy to send the information on my other qualified prized possession (well we are all just really caretakers I believe).
This is my all OG 1963 Jazz. I did have the hardened foam under the pickup's replaced since that affected the sound and I could not see keeping it there for the sake of just saying it was there. I play it! Setting the proper pickup height was important to me.
I am technically the third owner. I purchased it through Mass Street Music and they kindly connected me with the previous owner. He purchased this with his paper route money in 1965 from his MUSIC TEACHER! What a score. He gigged it all over Nebraska and Kansas and still hurts when he thinks about having to have sold it (arthritis). But I stay in touch with him and play her at every opportunity. Ryan at LA Guitar Repair did the change of the foam and set her up with LaBella Flats. It sounds incredible and it's very light. Serial #L11130. The matching custom leather strap is from Freddie Matara in NY.
I am way happy to be playing this gem and sharing her with my other musician friends when we get together. Fun, fun, fun. This forum has been very helpful in my new bass journey and I am thankful to the moderators and all of the tribe for your sincere thoughts and insights.

I’ve played that one, the guys over at Mass Street are friends. AMAZING bass!

 

[powdercoater]

I’ve played that one, the guys over at Mass Street are friends. AMAZING bass!

B4TP:
Really? Those people were just a treat to deal with. Susan was a charm to be sure.
I feel super fortunate to even hold this bass, it's a beauty in my eyes.
I am stoked that you got to pluck it a bit. I really do enjoy letting my friends experience this MOJO!
This pic is from Yosemite, she went on a field trip, haha.
Thanks for the comment.
Scott

 

[Bluesgrunt]

I'm looking for suggestions as to what the value of a stripped original anodized, aluminum precision bass pickguard, might be
I'm certain that even after having it reanodzed that it still wouldn't have the value of even a compromised, one that has most of the finish, still on it.
Thanks in advance

 

[powdercoater]

I'm looking for suggestions as to what the value of a stripped original anodized, aluminum precision bass pickguard, might be
I'm certain that even after having it reanodzed that it still wouldn't have the value of even a compromised, one that has most of the finish, still on it.
Thanks in advance

Bluesgrunt:
Here's my two cents as a 34 year professional in the metal finishing trade. Re-anodizing is not a given. Once the aluminum surface has been converted to aluminum oxide, stripping that oxide causes an etching of the aluminum. When re-anodized it will not have the same appearance as the original. If you brush grained (sanded in linear strokes) you could get back to the virgin aluminum and anodize it accordingly. This is easier said than done since the original aluminum was sanded on a belt that was 4-5 ft wide and with a specific grit. You could sand off the old anodizing and then polish the aluminum for a completely different look, not stock in appearance at all, cool but showy.
So, the value of a pickguard that is beat is not much. It will never appear original again, unless you happen to own a sheet metal shop and can get a Timesaver (brand name of a horizontal sander) to sand it just like original.
Don't waste your time. Get a nice original one and call it a day.
Again, just my .02C.
Scott

 

[Bluesgrunt]

Bluesgrunt:
Here's my two cents as a 34 year professional in the metal finishing trade. Re-anodizing is not a given. Once the aluminum surface has been converted to aluminum oxide, stripping that oxide causes an etching of the aluminum. When re-anodized it will not have the same appearance as the original. If you brush grained (sanded in linear strokes) you could get back to the virgin aluminum and anodize it accordingly. This is easier said than done since the original aluminum was sanded on a belt that was 4-5 ft wide and with a specific grit. You could sand off the old anodizing and then polish the aluminum for a completely different look, not stock in appearance at all, cool but showy.
So, the value of a pickguard that is beat is not much. It will never appear original again, unless you happen to own a sheet metal shop and can get a Timesaver (brand name of a horizontal sander) to sand it just like original.
Don't waste your time. Get a nice original one and call it a day.
Again, just my .02C.
Scott

Sounds like too much work attached to an uncertain outcome.
Think I'll look for a different one.
Thank you for the detailed information.