• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Fender Rumble Club

Oh, by the way... not to let my GC issue overshadow the the rest of the GAS relief...
20181026_105855.jpg
 
I would agree with Sissy. GC will not fix it for you. I bought a Rumble 200C used and when I took it home, it did not power up. I took it back and asked them about fixing it, as it may have been an easy fix...or not. They said no, that I'd have to get my money back. They did make it square as they went ahead and gave me an additional 20% off of a new 500C and then the 210 cab as well. But they didn't want to fix it. They also shipped it back to the original store and they put it back on the website for sale. Not sure if anyone foxed it, but with the time involved, I doubt it.
GC will take a returned (defective) product and put it right out there again (without repair) for sale. Ridiculous! This also happened to me and I have heard other GC customers report similar stories. I get EVERYTHING through Sweetwater now. Nothing but great experiences with them!
 
Editor's note: After taking what seemed like forever to write this, with several interruptions, I read that the end result is a partial refund and ordering a new horn for self install. I think that's WONDERFUL. Certainly better than I expected. Still, see below about checking for damage to the woofer or it's connections!

However, I'm posting this epistle just for future reference in it's original form.

...and then, reality set in.

So... what's wrong with this picture?
View attachment 3192484

Looks like something is missing, eh?
View attachment 3192485

Oh Look! There it is!
View attachment 3192486

Well poop. Big heaping pile of poop. So much for "excellent condition." At least that's where my emotional mind is at. My rational mind reminds me that I have no way of proving that it left the GC in Minnesota in that condition, and for all they knew, everything was fine when they shipped it. I have no way of knowing when it broke off. I will say that, while packed inside a very sturdy box (a MarkBass box no less... ha ha,) and with a more than adequate amount of bubble wrap... they did pack it wrong. The speakers were facing up, so that in effect, the weigh of the magnets were pulling down on the body of the drivers. For shipping and transporting, I've always been told that speakers should face down, thus allowing the weight of the magnet to rest on the basket or whatever structure the driver is made of.

Granted, this is only the horn tweeter, and what little time I had to investigate the rest of the cab and woofer, everything else seemed to be in fine condition. Unfortunately the rest of the evening is consumed by other needs, so I won't be able to look at it again until tomorrow morning. I'll have to test it out to see if the tweeter is in working order, and can perform as designed with the switch. The driver itself seems to be undamaged, although I can see that the plastic ring where it broke off from the horn is not a clean break. I suppose this may aid in reattaching it (if I go that route,) as it will be, in effect, "keyed" to only fit one way.

So... what are my options here?
1) I could return it as damaged goods and, I guess, get my money back, as it is a discontinued cab and therefore they wouldn't just be able to replace it. Prudent, but doesn't seem like the ideal choice, as then I am out 1 cab for my stack.
2) I could just turn the tweeter off, try to extract it through one of the ports (so it won't rattle around when the volume goes up,) and just be happy with the 1x12 driver as if it never had a horn tweeter to begin with. After all, I got the 112 to "fill out" the bottom end, and the 2x10 cab has its own horn tweeter with selector switch anyway. But then I wonder... what will I be missing having that extra feature on the 112? Again... doesn't seem ideal.
3) Suck it up and try to fix it thru surgery. Assuming the driver works fine, I could attempt to reattach it to the horn. Seeing as how the back end is sealed to the cab and not screwed on (a design choice I'm not sure I appreciate at the moment,) I assume I would have to go through the main 12" driver hole, or unscrew the handle on the right side and attempt it through there (which might actually get me closer to the horn itself.) Of course doing either of these would void any hope of returning it should something go wrong, so while I am technically competent to do these things, the thought of winding up with a $230 door stop does not thrill me. Still, for whatever reason (I guess based on 30+ years of successful DIY tinkering with this kind of thing,) I am inclined to think that this is the best option.

Question is this then... what would you do? Your opinions matter a great deal to me as the collective experience in this forum is unmatched anywhere else. If, like me, you gravitate towards option 3... has anybody here ever opened one of these things up and had there arms inside? And what would be your choice for incursion... removing the 12" driver or the side handle. I just keep wondering if these items are somehow "sealed" on the inside as well.

Anyway... I look forward to your opinions. P.S.

Hi, Phatty! Say, are you any kin to Flat Stanley? You know, that guy really gets around. But I digress . . . . So, here's my opinion.

Ouch-ey! Yeah, ain't it always some niggling little thing that puts a damper on an otherwise joyous occasion. I say, don't let it bring you down! You got a Rumble 200 head and a 210 cab with working compression horn, and this 112 woofer works? I'd say you got 99% of a great rig for only about 92% of the cost. I'd put some, but very minimal, effort in asking GC to address it, but I wouldn't hold my breath. Nor would I let that 112 out of my possession for one minute. If they say they can fix it, I'd say, "OK, but I'm gonna watch." If they will give you a new horn, GREAT!, I'm sure you can install it. But, the probable bottom line is that it is what it is. (As if anything could be what it ain't?)

First, I'd prefer leaving the screws holding the woofer in place, as is, if possible. So, I would then remove the side handle nearest the horn location to be able to gently reach in and deftly grab the horn's driver that was peeking thru the opposite side's port and retrieve it to the handle opening, while making sure that you do not damage the woofer connections or cone by retrieving the horn driver. IF this is too tight a fit, then I'd remove the woofer for easier access.

Yes, 'T-nuts' backing up the screws inside the cab should remain in place. If one or two 'T-nuts' do fall out, don't worry, they can still usually be reused for reassembly. And that access through the handle opening will REALLY come in handy then!

It looks like the horn's driver is easily detached by just pulling off the two spade lugs, once you have good access to it. So do that at your earliest opportunity.

Then inspect to see that the horn driver hasn't damaged any of the woofer connections or cone when it was flopping around in there! Do this "by feel" if the woofer is still in place, or visually if you have removed the woofer. Woofer damage to the cone or connections could be a more serious GC claim! (Being shipped with the magnet down may have actually saved the woofer from this flailing mace head in transit! Who knows?) Or, it may be just a little more for you to continue to "clean up their mess".

Finally unscrew and remove what's left of the horn's "hood". and then, I guess, super glue the horn driver to the horn hood making sure of a good "keyed" fit, like you mentioned. After an overly long glue drying time, reconnect the reassembled horn to the spade lugs hanging out of the cabs horn hole (sorry, most concise description I got) and rescrew the horn into place, taking care not to overtighten the screws. Likewise, if needed, rescrew the woofer without overtightening, using a "star pattern" on the screws, like with lug nuts on a car tire, proceeding to the next nut or screw on the opposite side to ensure even pressure around the flange.

Yes-on the R40. From what I've read on Rumble Club, they're all mounted that way. The Fender Rumble wiki pages or G-Dog or Linnin could tell you for certain.

Ha, ha ha ha ha! Boy, Goner, have I got you fooled! You think I know stuff? Some times I can find information, but I don't carry a lot of it around with me. Whatever "wisdom" I may have consists of knowing that I don't know it all, oftentimes not even much, and occasionally nothing whatsoever. In this case, I've installed "tilt-back" legs on a few of my guitar amps which were totally eazy-peavey with open backs. And, I've removed both side handles from my Bassman 115 Neo in order to install the amp head hold-down hardware for my Bassman 500, and also the "tilt-back" legs for the cab. And, IIRC, most of those screws had the "T-nuts" backing them up inside the cab.
Bassman 500-115 tilt back.jpg

Replacing that horn is actually a very easy fix. You can definitely do it. :thumbsup:

Yeah, in my opinion, it's easy enough to try super gluing the broken one together. And if that doesn't work, get a new one, if you want it bad enough, and replace the broken one.

I don't trust GC about used gear. IMO Phat Stanley had a typical used GC experience, and if he attempted to have GC do the repair, they would just offer a refund and put it back up on the web site w/o disclosing the damage. I'd try gluing the horn back together and failing that would buy a similar replacement horn.

They use 'T-nuts' for the screws. As long as you don't apply too much pressure when removing the screws the T-nuts will stay just fine.
View attachment 3192834

I totally agree with you, sissy. There are way too many GC anecdotes about the carelessness of some of their employees. One of my son's best friends, the bassist in his band, works at GC and even he is appalled by what he hears about and has seen at a few of them. He tries to encourage better at the store(s) he works at, I get the impression it's more than one, but until he makes manager he feels powerless to get others to change. Sad, yes, but not without the occasional ray of sunshine, so, maybe, some hope?
 
Last edited:
Yeah, see... that's part of the rub. My nearest GC is 30 miles away. I usually get one day off a week, so I'd have to wait till next Friday to drive it back to the store, wait for however long it takes them to fix it, then wait again for whatever my next day off would be to go retrieve it. I know, I know.... first world problems, right? Still, it would be a pain in the ass.

I'm going to start a support chat here in a little bit... perhaps I can talk them into sending me a replacement horn and then I could just swap 'em out.
GCs vary so much from store to store. One thing that helps is if you’re registered with them and they see how much money you’ve spent over the years. Im pretty sure the two GCs I’m most familiar with would make good and order a replacement part at no charge, if its available. Swapping it in should be easy and take only a few minutes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GonePlaid
Yeah, that's cool! But, look what mine can do! Look what mine can do!

View attachment 3193305

Anybody else? Huh? I really want to see a Rumble Stage 800 with 2 matching 210 cabs!!!
Wait a minute. Are we doing "I'll show you mine if you show me yours?"0623181111-00.jpg R200c/R112, Bassman25/R40. BTW, I plugged the B25 in to the R112(the B25's speaker is silenced). Nice sound but the B25 is as heavy as the R112. Kinda defeats the purpose.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BBassBassington
Wait a minute. Are we doing "I'll show you mine if you show me yours?"View attachment 3193553 R200c/R112, Bassman25/R40. BTW, I plugged the B25 in to the R112(the B25's speaker is silenced). Nice sound but the B25 is as heavy as the R112. Kinda defeats the purpose.

Yeah, that's it! Show 'em if you got 'em! Show us them Rumble and/or Bassman stacks and/or piles!!! RUMBLE ON!
 
Haven't posted in this thread for awhile. Still rocking the twin Rumble 500 combos.

Just a question: is it wrong to mate a Ray 4 with a fretless fender jazz neck? Am I going to get banned because I actually did this ? Did I break some unwritten code of bass ethics?

I am quite pleased with the results. I am playing it on my gig this weekend. It's like jaco on steroids. Lol

It is a squire vm jazz bass neck in ebonal and the ray is all black. It looks as wicked as it sounds.
 
Haven't posted in this thread for awhile. Still rocking the twin Rumble 500 combos.

Just a question: is it wrong to mate a Ray 4 with a fretless fender jazz neck? Am I going to get banned because I actually did this ? Did I break some unwritten code of bass ethics?

I am quite pleased with the results. I am playing it on my gig this weekend. It's like jaco on steroids. Lol
We're more about Rumbles than strictly 7ender to my way of thinking. (I'm a mainly Gibson man)0330181240-00.jpg 0330181406-00.jpg
 
Haven't posted in this thread for awhile. Still rocking the twin Rumble 500 combos.

Just a question: is it wrong to mate a Ray 4 with a fretless fender jazz neck? Am I going to get banned because I actually did this ? Did I break some unwritten code of bass ethics?

I am quite pleased with the results. I am playing it on my gig this weekend. It's like jaco on steroids. Lol

It is a squire vm jazz bass neck in ebonal and the ray is all black. It looks as wicked as it sounds.

I love my Ray and it would be 100% better with a Jazz neck. Even better still if I get the input jack fixed so it'll make noise again. I don't think you'll get banned. We've had some mixing of Rumbles and GK gear without any brawls so you should be safe.

I'm looking forward to seeing the JazzRay or FrankenRay or whatever other name is appropriate.
 

Latest posts