Thanks, Maartian. We saw these a few months ago, too. They look really nice!
Goneplaid's mud stand on Fender Rumble Club
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Thanks, Maartian. We saw these a few months ago, too. They look really nice!
Goneplaid's mud stand on Fender Rumble Club
Woo Hoo! It's here, Rumble 100 V3-12" combo. I was out back with a window appraiser and UPS snuck up and left it at my door. Ring II security camera out front nailed him, so I got a phone prompt, ran up front and there it was. lol.
It's little, it's cute, it's pretty loud in my living room and it's SOOO light, Hell Yeah. Ran my Sire P7-5 alder/rswd and Ibby SRSC805 thru it w/some blues/RnB tunes from my laptop to run some tunes before band rehearsal in a couple hours. Music sounds very good thru it. The Ibby sounded pretty rough, too dirty and distorted, I was concerned. But I think the batts are low in it, click to passive, no sound. Will check that later.
Ran to back and grabbed the Sire P7-5. Sounds way better, passive/active just here at home. Hoping I can use as passive P bass at rehearsal. But I tried it active too and it sounds real nice, both pups. My TC-E BG250-15 sounded horrible at this wine bar first time there. I then took my TC-E BH550 and the little Eden E series 12" cab. Way, way better. So expect the Rumble to work fine.
And I only use 5 string basses, fretted/fretless/active/passive. So here's hoping this little combo works well tonite. Just love the one hand schlep factor.
SOOOO light.
It's little, it's cute, it's pretty loud in my living room and it's SOOO light, Hell Yeah. Ran my Sire P7-5 alder/rswd and Ibby SRSC805 thru it w/some blues/RnB tunes from my laptop to run some tunes before band rehearsal in a couple hours. Music sounds very good thru it. The Ibby sounded pretty rough, too dirty and distorted, I was concerned. But I think the batts are low in it, click to passive, no sound. Will check that later.
Ran to back and grabbed the Sire P7-5. Sounds way better, passive/active just here at home. Hoping I can use as passive P bass at rehearsal. But I tried it active too and it sounds real nice, both pups. My TC-E BG250-15 sounded horrible at this wine bar first time there. I then took my TC-E BH550 and the little Eden E series 12" cab. Way, way better. So expect the Rumble to work fine.
And I only use 5 string basses, fretted/fretless/active/passive. So here's hoping this little combo works well tonite. Just love the one hand schlep factor.
SOOOO light.
I like it.....nobody is wrong in this exchange.
"Nobody's right if everybody's wrong"
"Think it's time we stop, hey, what's that sound . . ."
Everybody look what's goin down. Kinda catchy isn't it?!
Anyone who quotes the Springfield is always right.
Just curious, how do you use the Magna Cart as a tilt back stand? Or did I misinterpret what you said? I just got a Magna Cart and might try this out.Mud Stand pretty cool. I have two Magna Carts, just got 2nd one free w/my Ebay Bucks,. So I can lean my combo amps back to tilt on it. But even some places, the Magna Cart has to be folded away due to lack of space.
I'd like the Mud Stand for my actual gig-rig, usually my Peavey Mini Mega 1K+GB NeoX 212T. But not totally necessary. I'd think the MS would work best for combo amps, IMO.
The new Fender combo will be a one hander, into practices n jam nites. Gona use it tonite at a wine bar that lets' us rehearse their on Wed nite. Free music so they small crowd can't gripe when we stop to fix things.
Hate to use the "A" word here but I do have a very nice n new, Ampeg V4B reissue+212AV that needs to get used after sitting over a year. Been doing restaurant, low volume gigs only. Some new louder volume gigs will let me use it now.But still, watching, waiting for UPS truck for my little Fender.....
Just got a V3 Rumble 500 head as a backup for the Super Bassman. Quick test through my Neo 115 and I'm hearing some very nice sounds. Plenty of volume even at 8ohms. Here's a pic and I'm going back to the shed to make some noise ☺☺☺
I'll gladly join the Rumble Club! I bought a used Rumble 40 at GC while on the road last year and was absolutely bowled over by how great it sounded. I haven't used a small combo like that since I was just starting out (it was a Vox T-something-or-other) and wasn't expecting much. It actually sounds so good, I've contemplated getting a 500 to use as an in town gigging amp or some sort of touring backup. As is, however, the Rumble I have is a great little thing to take backstage every night or leave running at home to entice myself to pick up the instrument and put some time in without any hassle. If I were just starting out, this thing would sure be less discouraging to me to play through and less painful for others to listen to! Plus, it's pretty dang loud, so if you wanted to take it and jam with a band, you probably could. Top marks from me for the money.
May I have a number, please? 
The specs on the Fender.com site as of yesterday said 4 ohms.
Regardless, be sure you don't go below the minimum for the amp.
I'm seeing 8 ohms too on the U.S.site. For some reason the picture they show of the Speakon jack says 4 ohms. This could be what's causing the confusion.
They show the same picture for all of their cabs. I had to double check before ordering my 2x10s.
That would explain why I thought it was 4.
Waiting for the FedEx truck... still waiting... still...
Well, I have left cart on it's wheels on stage and just leaned my TC-E BG250 against the grab handle, just tilted it back against the handle. I used a piece of foam under amp to keep it from sliding.
I imagine the little Rumble will lean back the same way. Didn't have to do it last nite with first Rumble use; didn't need a cart at all, nice. Just tilted it back on a 2 level stage, worked great.
Thank you very much Dav it is greatly appreciated. No worries about the time frame, my ability to get online these days are a bit limited.
One quick note this Rumble 40 really accents the tone on my Hofner HCT especially when in overdrive. A happy accidental discovery.
Sssshhhhhh don't tell Gdog. He only knows about my Mustang PJ.
Thank you again.
Hope to talk at you all sooner than later.
Bob
That looks like an interesting combination! I love those front grilles on GK cabs; they might not look the best but you know your speaker is well protected.
...and then, reality set in.
So... what's wrong with this picture?
Looks like something is missing, eh?
Oh Look! There it is!
Well poop. Big heaping pile of poop. So much for "excellent condition." At least that's where my emotional mind is at. My rational mind reminds me that I have no way of proving that it left the GC in Minnesota in that condition, and for all they knew, everything was fine when they shipped it. I have no way of knowing when it broke off. I will say that, while packed inside a very sturdy box (a MarkBass box no less... ha ha,) and with a more than adequate amount of bubble wrap... they did pack it wrong. The speakers were facing up, so that in effect, the weigh of the magnets were pulling down on the body of the drivers. For shipping and transporting, I've always been told that speakers should face down, thus allowing the weight of the magnet to rest on the basket or whatever structure the driver is made of.
Granted, this is only the horn tweeter, and what little time I had to investigate the rest of the cab and woofer, everything else seemed to be in fine condition. Unfortunately the rest of the evening is consumed by other needs, so I won't be able to look at it again until tomorrow morning. I'll have to test it out to see if the tweeter is in working order, and can perform as designed with the switch. The driver itself seems to be undamaged, although I can see that the plastic ring where it broke off from the horn is not a clean break. I suppose this may aid in reattaching it (if I go that route,) as it will be, in effect, "keyed" to only fit one way.
So... what are my options here?
1) I could return it as damaged goods and, I guess, get my money back, as it is a discontinued cab and therefore they wouldn't just be able to replace it. Prudent, but doesn't seem like the ideal choice, as then I am out 1 cab for my stack.
2) I could just turn the tweeter off, try to extract it through one of the ports (so it won't rattle around when the volume goes up,) and just be happy with the 1x12 driver as if it never had a horn tweeter to begin with. After all, I got the 112 to "fill out" the bottom end, and the 2x10 cab has its own horn tweeter with selector switch anyway. But then I wonder... what will I be missing having that extra feature on the 112? Again... doesn't seem ideal.
3) Suck it up and try to fix it thru surgery. Assuming the driver works fine, I could attempt to reattach it to the horn. Seeing as how the back end is sealed to the cab and not screwed on (a design choice I'm not sure I appreciate at the moment,) I assume I would have to go through the main 12" driver hole, or unscrew the handle on the right side and attempt it through there (which might actually get me closer to the horn itself.) Of course doing either of these would void any hope of returning it should something go wrong, so while I am technically competent to do these things, the thought of winding up with a $230 door stop does not thrill me. Still, for whatever reason (I guess based on 30+ years of successful DIY tinkering with this kind of thing,) I am inclined to think that this is the best option.
Question is this then... what would you do? Your opinions matter a great deal to me as the collective experience in this forum is unmatched anywhere else. If, like me, you gravitate towards option 3... has anybody here ever opened one of these things up and had there arms inside? And what would be your choice for incursion... removing the 12" driver or the side handle. I just keep wondering if these items are somehow "sealed" on the inside as well.
Anyway... I look forward to your opinions. P.S.
So... what's wrong with this picture?
Looks like something is missing, eh?
Oh Look! There it is!
Well poop. Big heaping pile of poop. So much for "excellent condition." At least that's where my emotional mind is at. My rational mind reminds me that I have no way of proving that it left the GC in Minnesota in that condition, and for all they knew, everything was fine when they shipped it. I have no way of knowing when it broke off. I will say that, while packed inside a very sturdy box (a MarkBass box no less... ha ha,) and with a more than adequate amount of bubble wrap... they did pack it wrong. The speakers were facing up, so that in effect, the weigh of the magnets were pulling down on the body of the drivers. For shipping and transporting, I've always been told that speakers should face down, thus allowing the weight of the magnet to rest on the basket or whatever structure the driver is made of.
Granted, this is only the horn tweeter, and what little time I had to investigate the rest of the cab and woofer, everything else seemed to be in fine condition. Unfortunately the rest of the evening is consumed by other needs, so I won't be able to look at it again until tomorrow morning. I'll have to test it out to see if the tweeter is in working order, and can perform as designed with the switch. The driver itself seems to be undamaged, although I can see that the plastic ring where it broke off from the horn is not a clean break. I suppose this may aid in reattaching it (if I go that route,) as it will be, in effect, "keyed" to only fit one way.
So... what are my options here?
1) I could return it as damaged goods and, I guess, get my money back, as it is a discontinued cab and therefore they wouldn't just be able to replace it. Prudent, but doesn't seem like the ideal choice, as then I am out 1 cab for my stack.
2) I could just turn the tweeter off, try to extract it through one of the ports (so it won't rattle around when the volume goes up,) and just be happy with the 1x12 driver as if it never had a horn tweeter to begin with. After all, I got the 112 to "fill out" the bottom end, and the 2x10 cab has its own horn tweeter with selector switch anyway. But then I wonder... what will I be missing having that extra feature on the 112? Again... doesn't seem ideal.
3) Suck it up and try to fix it thru surgery. Assuming the driver works fine, I could attempt to reattach it to the horn. Seeing as how the back end is sealed to the cab and not screwed on (a design choice I'm not sure I appreciate at the moment,) I assume I would have to go through the main 12" driver hole, or unscrew the handle on the right side and attempt it through there (which might actually get me closer to the horn itself.) Of course doing either of these would void any hope of returning it should something go wrong, so while I am technically competent to do these things, the thought of winding up with a $230 door stop does not thrill me. Still, for whatever reason (I guess based on 30+ years of successful DIY tinkering with this kind of thing,) I am inclined to think that this is the best option.
Question is this then... what would you do? Your opinions matter a great deal to me as the collective experience in this forum is unmatched anywhere else. If, like me, you gravitate towards option 3... has anybody here ever opened one of these things up and had there arms inside? And what would be your choice for incursion... removing the 12" driver or the side handle. I just keep wondering if these items are somehow "sealed" on the inside as well.
Anyway... I look forward to your opinions. P.S.
