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Fender Rumble Club

My first rig was a dano short horn and a Silvertone 2x12 that was IIRC 35 watts. It was all I could afford at the time. I was a Navy E3 and my net was about $45.00 a month.
Hah! Lowly Seaman.(E-4 here-MU3)J/K. I got really good deals on my stuff through friends at a local guitar store. I'd had a Navy issue EB-3 at my last duty station, liked it so I bought one.
 
Head/Cab. My fault: Bassman 500/Rumble 1x15

I moved the head to the floor and am still hearing the buzz. I think it's the speaker. Considering swapping it for an Eminence Kappa 4ohm, 450w speaker.
do you have another cab you can plug you head into? If it were me, I'd isolate the problem before I bought a speaker that may or may not solve the problem.
remove any effects or tuners between the bass and the amp.
Try a different cable.
Try a different bass.
Try a different head.
Try a different cab.
Try a different circuit in your house.
Is there any florescent lighting in the room?
Are there any electric motors or other electric devices nearby?
There are so many things that can cause buzzing. It can be mind bending to chase it down.
Hah! Lowly Seaman.(E-4 here-MU3)J/K. I got really good deals on my stuff through friends at a local guitar store. I'd had a Navy issue EB-3 at my last duty station, liked it so I bought one.
I wasn't an MU, I was ATW, made E4 twice. :D
 
Wow! I got a gift from my brother of a Fender Rumble 500 head in mint condition. I had a gig last night debuting my new 6 piece covers band. Running my P bass with TI flats into the Rumble and my two Barefaced One10 cabs was amazing. All eq knobs at 12 oçlock and the vintage button engaged got me the sound I hear in my head. Heaps of grunt, the head was just idling! I've had GK, Mesa, Trace, SWR, Ampeg, Quilter, Genzler, TC and Peavey heads, and while they were all very good (some of them excellent in fact), the Rumble is the first head I
have ever had where I got my sound straight off, no twiddling of eq knobs to find the sound. I'm very impressed.
 
do you have another cab you can plug you head into? If it were me, I'd isolate the problem before I bought a speaker that may or may not solve the problem.
remove any effects or tuners between the bass and the amp.
Try a different cable.
Try a different bass.
Try a different head.
Try a different cab.
Try a different circuit in your house.
Is there any florescent lighting in the room?
Are there any electric motors or other electric devices nearby?
There are so many things that can cause buzzing. It can be mind bending to chase it down.

I wasn't an MU, I was ATW, made E4 twice. :D
I "made" E-5 but my increment was less than 30 days b4 my enlistment was up, so no 2nd stripe-or money.:(
 
Yeah, how did we play gigs and be heard when guitar players were using the original 25w Twin Reverbs and we had 50w bassmans? The drummers kits where not very different, so how did any of us get heard?
I remember when 100w amps first appeared on the scene we all went WOW!
Even with the amps of the mid 60s, if you were in the audience, you had to yell to be heard.
Could it be that even the younger crowd is deaf from all the loud music so we need 1000 watts to be heard?
All other things being equal, each doubling of the power nets you only an additional +3 dB. So quadrupling the power gets you +6 dB. It takes about 10 times the power to achieve +10 dB, which subjectively is "about twice as loud" for most people. So 1000 watts is about twice as loud as 100 watts—but only if the loudspeaker efficiency is held constant.

In general, higher fidelity loudspeakers are less efficient than those with a more restricted frequency response (efficiency being a measure of a loudspeaker's sound pressure level when reproducing a standard signal at 1 metre distance when powered by 1 watt). Typical hi-fi loudspeakers might measure something like 91 dB SPL (C-weighted). Instrument amplifier loudspeakers are generally more efficient than hi-fi loudspeakers. In order to compare apples to apples with today's amps and speakers vs those from the 60s, we'd need a new old stock speaker from the era, with the same magnet material, same type of cone material, same mechanical design, and so on. But keep in mind that doubling the power still only nets you +3 dB, which for many years has been considered a miniscule, barely audible difference, such that the frequency response spec of most "hi-fi" gear in the pre-digital era was stated as ±3 dB: an allowable deviation of up to 6 dB considering both directions from minimum to maximum. (Even the best pro 24-track tape machines, such as Studer, Otari, and Ampex recorders, that the great bulk of records from the 70s and 80s were made on, were spec'd at the much higher quality standard of ±2 dB.)
 
Rumble with EBMMS5 and Rickenbacker.....
rumble1.JPG
 
Just came in today Rumble 800hd and Rumble 4x10 cab. Can you please fix me up with a number? This will be the first club I've ever joined on TB and I've been here AWHILE! LOL
View attachment 3580921

It's a 2015 mexican standard P(with the tort upgrade ; ) ) and a 2000 EBMM Sterling. One year from vintage although I'm sure it won't affect the resale value.


Welcome, @finfrocka, you are now member #1132 in the Fender Rumble Club. We are honored to have you with us. You've made some very fine choices for your first club. Now, when you get your next 3 Rumble 410s to match this one, you'll have the ultimate Rumble rig with 16 x 10s at 800 watts! Can't wait to see that pic! Please keep us posted!!! And be sure to ... ...

Rumble On!
.
 
Rumblers...we are everywhere. I did a gig last night -- four bands. Several of the other bands shared some gear. The upshot is, all bass amps used were Rumbles. I need to put some stickers on mine to make sure I can tell it apart!


Yeah, stickers are an easy way to mark your Rumble. But, so are different color knobs and/or grille clothe! Make it truly yours. Own it. Love it.
.
Thanks
It is a Rumble 500
I purchased it in an effort to find a one size fits all amp to cover all my gigs
Duke


Amen, dukey. That's why I got my Rumble 500 combo some years ago, too. Small and light enough to go anywhere, yet powerful enough to handle any venue, with the range of tones to make any genre of music. It is the one amp to rule them all. It is 'my precious'!
smeagol.jpg
 
All other things being equal, each doubling of the power nets you only an additional +3 dB. So quadrupling the power gets you +6 dB. It takes about 10 times the power to achieve +10 dB, which subjectively is "about twice as loud" for most people. So 1000 watts is about twice as loud as 100 watts—but only if the loudspeaker efficiency is held constant.

In general, higher fidelity loudspeakers are less efficient than those with a more restricted frequency response (efficiency being a measure of a loudspeaker's sound pressure level when reproducing a standard signal at 1 metre distance when powered by 1 watt). Typical hi-fi loudspeakers might measure something like 91 dB SPL (C-weighted). Instrument amplifier loudspeakers are generally more efficient than hi-fi loudspeakers. In order to compare apples to apples with today's amps and speakers vs those from the 60s, we'd need a new old stock speaker from the era, with the same magnet material, same type of cone material, same mechanical design, and so on. But keep in mind that doubling the power still only nets you +3 dB, which for many years has been considered a miniscule, barely audible difference, such that the frequency response spec of most "hi-fi" gear in the pre-digital era was stated as ±3 dB: an allowable deviation of up to 6 dB considering both directions from minimum to maximum. (Even the best pro 24-track tape machines, such as Studer, Otari, and Ampex recorders, that the great bulk of records from the 70s and 80s were made on, were spec'd at the much higher quality standard of ±2 dB.)
Your technical understanding is way beyond mine, but from what I understand, your information supports the idea that the "OMG! I can't possibly get by with less than 500 watts!" is just as much nonsense as I think it is.
 
Wow! I got a gift from my brother of a Fender Rumble 500 head in mint condition. I had a gig last night debuting my new 6 piece covers band. Running my P bass with TI flats into the Rumble and my two Barefaced One10 cabs was amazing. All eq knobs at 12 oçlock and the vintage button engaged got me the sound I hear in my head. Heaps of grunt, the head was just idling! I've had GK, Mesa, Trace, SWR, Ampeg, Quilter, Genzler, TC and Peavey heads, and while they were all very good (some of them excellent in fact), the Rumble is the first head I
have ever had where I got my sound straight off, no twiddling of eq knobs to find the sound. I'm very impressed.
Yeah, nice, isn't it? My practice rig is a 40 EQed about the same. I have a Squire CV 60s P with a quarterpounder and TI flats that is my current practice bass.
 
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Hello Rumblers. I’m looking at buying some used Rumble cabs, the 2x8 with neo speakers, one or two generations before current production. I see lots of good feedback on the 112 and running the 112 and 2x8 together, but little to nothing about the 2x8 on its own.

Does anyone have experience with running one or two 2x8 cabs *without the 112*, and how do the 2x8s deal with a low B string? I rarely get below D on the B string and usually have a HPF on anyway, so I suspect they’ll be fine, but it would be great to hear from someone with some experience.

Thanks.
 
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