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Fender Rumble Club

indeed. at least You need some CAB sims for PA. for r100 not necessarily.
Actually, most of the Presets I've created, I prefer no cabs sims.

I do have some with cab sims that sound good, especially for overdriven tones.

I understand with a lot of guitarists, because the cabs are contributing to the tone goals; with bass guitar, I just prefer the sound of my bass, usually plus a bit of tube flavoring!

My favorite with a cab sim is the one Two Notes created of the Mesa Standard Powerhouse 212 with various different mics.
The Mesa Standard Powerhouse 1000 is pretty good as well.
 
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First, I’m NOT a troll!

But I have wondered for some time why some folks don’t remove the large showroom/ marketing stickers from the top or front grille of their Rumbles.

I have seen a number of photos of Rumbles, that have apparently been owned for some time, that still have the large orange and white top sticker in place. Even at gigs!

I could understand it if the amp was out for a “test run”, but some of the photos I’ve seen are of amps just being used normally. As in the gig photo above.

?!?
I've been meaning to ask the same thing. That stuff comes off right away. I save it only until I'm sure I'm keeping the amp.
 
Nor am I a troll, despite what my wife may occasionally say. 🤨



I resemble that remark, Kenny! In fact I've even had people ask me "what's that" when the store display card was still attached, answering the question before it was even asked! So, like a game show prize presenter, I touch an edge as I read the display card to them. 😉
Some of us are still proud of our new stuff even after it's no longer new!​
OK, Mini (sic) Pearl!
 
Oh, do you mean like these?
View attachment 7360791

Not that these smaller amps go out much, if at all, but the placards make great dust and cat claw protection for the tops of the amps. They keep the dust from settling into the tolex grain. The Ashdown is about a year old and the Rumble is almost three years old.

For the few times I have taken one or the other out, I remove the placard.
I bought amp covers. Keeps them clean and safe from light rain, protects from bumps, includes a large pocket for cables.
 
Oh, do you mean like these?
View attachment 7360791

Not that these smaller amps go out much, if at all, but the placards make great dust and cat claw protection for the tops of the amps. They keep the dust from settling into the tolex grain. The Ashdown is about a year old and the Rumble is almost three years old.

For the few times I have taken one or the other out, I remove the placard.
I am not the only one that has considered adding an Ashdown to the Rumble
 
To me, the As
I am not the only one that has considered adding an Ashdown to the Rumble
To me, the Ashdowns are tonally opposite of the Rumble line. The Rumbles are mid scooped and the Ashdowns are more mid forward. While the Ashdowns suit my playing style better, I'll never give up on the Rumbles, as they have a sound I do use often.
 
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Different strokes for different folks...

Can someone explain why people don't like certain brand amps/cab but always set their tone controls flat?

I can understand a base to work from and dial in as needed/wanted, but really don't understand those who are adverse to using the tone controls to shape the desired tone.

In all my 45 years of playing, through all different kinds of cabs and amps (with some outliers and exceptions), I've never had an amp/cab where I couldn't dial in a pleasing tone. Maybe it's because I've had to use amps/cabs that were not my own (as provided backline) and had to work with what I had to play through.

I agree that Rumbles can sound "boxy" and many other cabs do as well. All I need to do is dial back the low-mids (or with the help of my Zoom B1X pedal) specifically cut 100Hz which contributes to that typically "honky" or "boxy" sound.

I love the tone of my Rumble 100's (V3) but again I cut the low-mids, or I use the Contour Cut switch and dial back in what I want. That, and I no longer play with musicians who feel the need to play loud. I get the same tone from my Rumbles on gigs that I do at home, because I no longer have to fight that "cut through the mix" nonsense.
 
... ... Can someone explain why people don't like certain brand amps/cab but always set their tone controls flat?

I can understand a base to work from and dial in as needed/wanted, but really don't understand those who are adverse to using the tone controls to shape the desired tone. ... ... ...

Well, the all 12s "flat" setting is a common starting place for players, but also where, I've read, manufacturers design their signature tone to reside. And then, more often than not, the "pyscho-" part of psychoacoustics kicks in to keep it there for the signature sound of whatever nameplate they're gazing at.​
But, of course, different strokes for different folks. 😉

... ... ... In all my 45 years of playing, through all different kinds of cabs and amps (with some outliers and exceptions), I've never had an amp/cab where I couldn't dial in a pleasing tone. Maybe it's because I've had to use amps/cabs that were not my own (as provided backline) and had to work with what I had to play through. ... ... ...

It seems like you were then fairly forced to learn to EQ for a certain type of sound you wanted, regardless of nameplate. 👍

... ... ... I agree that Rumbles can sound "boxy" and many other cabs do as well. All I need to do is dial back the low-mids (or with the help of my Zoom B1X pedal) specifically cut 100Hz which contributes to that typically "honky" or "boxy" sound. ... ... ...

Only the R200, and larger (and Rumble Studio 40) come with acoustic lining built-in, so of course the unlined boxes are more often "boxy," especially, it seems, the R100.. 🫣

... ... ... I love the tone of my Rumble 100's (V3) but again I cut the low-mids, or I use the Contour Cut switch and dial back in what I want. That, and I no longer play with musicians who feel the need to play loud. I get the same tone from my Rumbles on gigs that I do at home, because I no longer have to fight that "cut through the mix" nonsense.

I hear ya! The mids is what really "cut thru the mix" and the Contour button scoops right in between them (although slightly closer to the hi-mids). 🧐
 
Well, the all 12s "flat" setting is a common starting place for players, but also where, I've read, manufacturers design their signature tone to reside. And then, more often than not, the "pyscho-" part of psychoacoustics kicks in to keep it there for the signature sound of whatever nameplate they're gazing at.​
But, of course, different strokes for different folks. 😉



It seems like you were then fairly forced to learn to EQ for a certain type of sound you wanted, regardless of nameplate. 👍



Only the R200, and larger (and Rumble Studio 40) come with acoustic lining built-in, so of course the unlined boxes are more often "boxy," especially, it seems, the R100.. 🫣



I hear ya! The mids is what really "cut thru the mix" and the Contour button scoops right in between them (although slightly closer to the hi-mids). 🧐
Graphic EQ's (even EQ pedals) are a great way to maintain the sound one is after because you can fine tune almost any "baked in" cab tone to your liking.

I used to own an Ashdown Superfly amp totally devoid of "tone" controls, but had a great, extensive 7 band Graphic EQ with savable presets.

I now use a Zoom B1X for my tone shaping with saved presets I've programmed into it and grouped together, so that it doesn't really matter what I use...,headphones, Rumble 100's (either alone or chained), monitors, FOH or really any backline amp provided.

And, I do believe that the Rumble 100's sound more "boxy" the louder they are pushed, but again I don't play any longer with musicians who feel the need to play competitive volume wars. LOL.
 
Well, the all 12s "flat" setting is a common starting place for players, but also where, I've read, manufacturers design their signature tone to reside. And then, more often than not, the "pyscho-" part of psychoacoustics kicks in to keep it there for the signature sound of whatever nameplate they're gazing at.​
But, of course, different strokes for different folks. 😉



It seems like you were then fairly forced to learn to EQ for a certain type of sound you wanted, regardless of nameplate. 👍



Only the R200, and larger (and Rumble Studio 40) come with acoustic lining built-in, so of course the unlined boxes are more often "boxy," especially, it seems, the R100.. 🫣



I hear ya! The mids is what really "cut thru the mix" and the Contour button scoops right in between them (although slightly closer to the hi-mids). 🧐
I have not even thought about opening my 100 to look at the speaker box... Maybe one day...
 
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To expand on @G-Dog 's "all-12s is the signature sound" thought, I think for every amp sold, the designer believed the amp sounded good.* Will everyone agree? No, but some will. Generally, some people have broad ideas about what sound good, and others have a specific sound in their mind. Any given person will hear an amp's signature sound (or even a dialed in sound from another player) and it's kind of a love-at-first-listen experience. If the amp doesn't fall into the person's set of preferred sounds, they probably won't bother to explore the amp enough to find out whether it can be adjusted to fall into their preferred sound.

TLDR: Most people are lazy. :laugh:

* Some consideration goes into manufacturing costs, like leaving out the lining on R100s.
 
I have not even thought about opening my 100 to look at the speaker box... Maybe one day...
It's just an empty plywood box. Nothin' inside but wires!
Rumble V3 100 internals2.jpg
 
Graphic EQ's (even EQ pedals) are a great way to maintain the sound one is after because you can fine tune almost any "baked in" cab tone to your liking.

I used to own an Ashdown Superfly amp totally devoid of "tone" controls, but had a great, extensive 7 band Graphic EQ with savable presets.

I now use a Zoom B1X for my tone shaping with saved presets I've programmed into it and grouped together, so that it doesn't really matter what I use...,headphones, Rumble 100's (either alone or chained), monitors, FOH or really any backline amp provided.

And, I do believe that the Rumble 100's sound more "boxy" the louder they are pushed, but again I don't play any longer with musicians who feel the need to play competitive volume wars. LOL.
My 100s sound great with true flat settings and a sock in one port. I do most of my tone shaping with my pedalboard (EQ, preamp) and my hands.
 
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It's just an empty plywood box. Nothin' inside but wires!View attachment 7363439
Posting this photo reminded me...

I have been thinking about adding some damping material to the back side of my R100.

I would like to use a sheet of the same type of material Fender uses to line the backs of the R200, R500, etc.
Just a nice, thick sheet of polyester fiber lining, sturdy but "fluffy".
The material fender uses is about 1-1/2 inches thick

I can't find a source for the stuff ANYWHERE, at a decent price! :banghead:

I've tried the craft/fabric stores (Hobby Lobby, Michael's, etc.), speaker building suppliers (Parts Express) and various online fabric and upholstery sites, and I can't find just simple sheets/rolls of lightweight polyester fiber of the proper thickness.

I don't want stuffing, and I don't need damping/vibration suppression, and I'm not interested in heavy-duty sound absorption. And not recycled denim or carpet padding.
I Just want to use a sheet of the stuff Fender uses at the factory.

The ONLY sources I've found are eBay and Amazon, which both offer the exact same size and quantity of the material from multiple vendors,

"Speaker Absorbing Polyester Fiber 100x50x5CM Sound Absorber Acoustic Insulation Material"​

which every vendor is selling for $20.00!!!

Amazon.com: CCeCCe Speaker Absorbing Polyester Fiber 100x50x5CM Sound Absorber Acoustic Insulation Material Subwoofer Damping HiFi DIY Repair Audio Interior Replacement : Musical Instruments

It is nice and thick, looks like this:

Thickness.png


This is EXACTLY what I'm looking for, but I'm NOT paying that outrageous price for a sheet of fluffy padding!
It MUST be hard to find, or else folks wouldn't be buying from these guys...

So, anyway, does anyone know of a source for this material at a reasonable price?
Thanks!
 
Last edited:
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Posting this photo reminded me...

I have been thinking about adding some damping material to the back side of my R100.

I would like to use a sheet of the same type of material Fender uses to line the backs of the R200, R500, etc.
Just a nice, thick sheet of polyester fiber lining, sturdy but "fluffy".
The material fender uses is about 1-1/2 inches thick

I can't find a source for the stuff ANYWHERE, at a decent price! :banghead:

I've tried the craft/fabric stores (Hobby Lobby, Michael's, etc.), speaker building suppliers (Parts Express) and various online fabric and upholstery sites, and I can't find just simple sheets/rolls of lightweight polyester fiber of the proper thickness.

I don't want stuffing, and I don't need damping/vibration suppression, and I'm not interested in heavy-duty sound absorption. And not recycled denim or carpet padding.
I Just want to use a sheet of the stuff Fender uses at the factory.

The ONLY sources I've found are eBay and Amazon, which both offer the exact same size and quantity of the material from multiple vendors,

"Speaker Absorbing Polyester Fiber 100x50x5CM Sound Absorber Acoustic Insulation Material"​

which every vendor is selling for $20.00!!!

Amazon.com: CCeCCe Speaker Absorbing Polyester Fiber 100x50x5CM Sound Absorber Acoustic Insulation Material Subwoofer Damping HiFi DIY Repair Audio Interior Replacement : Musical Instruments

It is nice and thick, looks like this:

View attachment 7364084

This is EXACTLY what I'm looking for, but I'm NOT paying that outrageous price for a sheet of fluffy padding!
It MUST be hard to find, or else folks wouldn't be buying from these guys...

So, anyway, does anyone know of a source for this material at a reasonable price?
Thanks!
Try a local fabric store.
 
As an Amazon Associate, TalkBass may receive commissions from qualifying purchases made via links on this site.
Try a local fabric store.
I’ve tried fabric and craft stores, both locally and online.
They have lots of polyester “stuffing”, and various types of “batting” for quilting and padding, but it’s only up to 3/8” thick.

Because the material I’m after seems so hard to find, I suspect it must be some kind of “specialty” upholstery padding, available only in wholesale quantities to professional/industrial users…
 

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