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Fender Super Twin Bass Head

John - have a line on a local Super Twin Reverb chassis, dirt-cheap. Is it a hassle to bypass the "extra circuitry" (verb and distortion, I presume?) and still get the goodness of the non-verb version?

the STR has all of the same 'goodness' of the ST and SB, just don't use the verb or distortion and you're good to go.
 
Hey John - I pinged thetubestore.com about a sextet, with some questions about their offerings and the application in question - any concerns about the following?

"I highly doubt this amp's power transformers will like the additional current draw the KT66 tubes will have. They draw 50% more current than 6L6's and I doubt Fender over-rated the stock transformer by that much. If your acquaintance did this and is not finding the heater voltage drop noticeably, and/or the transformer running hotter, it might be fine."
 
i don't know about the KT66's in them (i never tried them), but i'll bet that they'd be fine since the 7581A's draw alot more current too. if you can spend a little more $ and want it to run a very long time before having to replace the output tubes, i'd recommend these:
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7581A's are just an mil spec/industrial 6L6GC, but NOS 6L6GC's work great in them.
 
check out a bassest called Alan Davey ex hawkwind now has a band called gunslinger he uses a 50 watt bassman ,either thro 215 on its own,or 212 +115,he uses a ric has the thing running full,0 bass,middle n treb full the thing really grinds,but with hawkwind got some nice bass tones,or bi amps with another bassman........have a look at this
 
Just thought I'd post a few pics and info on my new (old) Fender Super Twin amp that I converted to a bass head.

I made the head box cabinet from pine and went over the circuit to make sure that everything was up to snuff. I replaced the bias and filter caps with new Spragues and also installed a bias control (in its stock form, the amp just has an output tube "balance control"). After playing thru it, all i can say is WOW! For some reason this amp sounds alot more powerful and transparent than the previous three fender "Studio Bass" heads that I've had, and they have basically the same circuit. I'm currently running Chinese 6L6GC's ( look like coke bottle KT66's) in it and so far, they are my favorite sounding output tubes in this amp (and inexpensive too). Even with the tone controls set flat, it sounds awesome, and can go from "old school" vintage tones to modern since its EQ is so flexible. Instead of the standard feet, I made some feet out of 1/2" thick sorbothane and now the head doesn't "see" or feel ANY of the cabinet's vibration, even at extreme levels.

This just might be the best sounding tube bass amp that i have, and that's comparing it to my two SVT's (a '69 and a VR), my Sound City Bass 150, my Sunn 190B and 2000S, and a Traynor YBA200-2. It is super punchy and feels like it's almost as powerful as an SVT (2/3rd's as powerful anyway) so I just put it on the scope and ran a few output tests on it. Just before a 400Hz sine wave distorts on the scope, it is putting out 193.667 Watts RMS at 4 ohms, but it feels like even more.

To me, these Super Twins are one of the best kept secrets out there for bass and they can be found complete with the 2-12 cabinet for around $500.00 or less. Then you can sell the empty cab and speakers and you'll have about $300 into one of the best bass heads that you'll ever play thru. They also made a Super Twin Reverb, but I didn't want the verb or the extra circuitry for it.

anyway, here's some pics of it with it's 2-15 JBL K140 cab:

supertwin-2-w.jpg


supertwin-4-w.jpg


supertwin-6-w.jpg


supertwin-5-w.jpg




I am new here and I hate to say this up front, but I figure I'll get found out soon enough anyway.............I am perhaps the biggest Fender-snob on the planet and this is just about the coolest thread I've come across so far. I am in awe of this rig!!!

I would love to get my hands on a Fender Super-Bassman 300 head, but don't have the funds for it. I would love to save some cash and build a rig like this but don't have the technical ability to do it. So............for now I will just look at your pics and dream (and drool). Maybe someday.
 
+1 JohnK10 does super work & is wonderful to have here on TB. Very helpful & friendly.
If I were in yr situation, I''d try & find a Studio Bass or Super Twin & let a decent tech go to work on it.
Let em know there's no rush & you might find a friendly price tag.
Thus you're giving work to a local tech & getting yr amp at what'll probly be far cheaper than any other option.
They're a great amp.
 
i don't know about the KT66's in them (i never tried them), but i'll bet that they'd be fine since the 7581A's draw alot more current too. if you can spend a little more $ and want it to run a very long time before having to replace the output tubes, i'd recommend these:
Invalid Link Removed

7581A's are just an mil spec/industrial 6L6GC, but NOS 6L6GC's work great in them.
Did I misread you upthread?

...currently have Shuguang KT66's (6L6GC's) in the Super Twin head.
 

I kind of bought that one...I bought just the chassis w/ tubes.

I watched that one on Craigs' list, then he lowered the price, then ebay, then he lowered the price again. SO I drove over there and traded a short-scale "V" type Kramer bass with aluminum neck and a few old pedals for just the chassis; he kept the speakers and cabinet.

I'm probably giong to go white levant and cream knobs, with wheat grille. The traditional black tolex with whte/black Fender grille would look more traditional, especially since I found extra knobs including the EQ knobs with 0 in the middle. But I want to see what this turns out like.

I had the cabinet made 1 inch taller than normal, and the oval lower air intake holes in the back panel larger and lower. I'm adding a big air intake vent grille (from a Marshall) to the bottom and taller feet, so air can enter from the bottom. Much of the front grille will also be functional, allowing cool air in. The cabinet is also about an inch and a half deeper than normal, so it's a bit more difficult to get to the speaker jacks, but I will just enlarge the top opening in the back panel too, before I put on tolex. It just moves more air with room between the back panel and the cabinet back. No fancy finger-jointed corners, but well-braced and the bottom corners are reinforced. I'm trying to decide whether to put one handle on the top or one on each end like an SVT? BTW I bought a new faceplate on ebay. There's only one other new faceplate available, and it might be the last one anywhere. I bought new bars for the screws that the chassis hangs from, but I might make my own out of aluminum instead anyway; the originals look genuine but they rust after only a few years. I'm not trying to fool anyone, I just want a nice amp. It's already a slightly confused mutt, so I feel pretty free to do whatever I please with it.
 
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John - have a line on a local Super Twin Reverb chassis, dirt-cheap. Is it a hassle to bypass the "extra circuitry" (verb and distortion, I presume?) and still get the goodness of the non-verb version?

I think the super twin and studio bass have only normal dual triodes and the 6L6s, but I think the super twin with reverb has some triple triodes, which may get harder to find since they're not made anymore.

Get a nice tall cabinet that will flow plenty of air, remember these were meant to be in a huge open-back combo. And keep the reverb, keep it useful as a clean guitar amp or bass amp.