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First build: 5 string EUB
- Thread starter Rickett Customs
- Start date
If you've done oil, main difference is all the coats for thickness and no need for periodic "wood" wax, although I did use carnauba wax (Mothers) on the hardware and laminate tops so far, will use it on the back once done.Makes it real shiny and slick.
yeah, im not really goin for a shiny kinda thing. more matte than anything. i really like the looks of it
why not use a line of piezo cable under the whole bridge instead of the two (assuming round) elements?
That's the plan right now (i'm gonna try using 2 elements in parallel,centered on the left and right sides) , If it does not work satisfactory, I will be going the piezo cable route, which means each string will have it's own separate one, on each saddle, drilled across each saddle below the string notch, so that each string will sit directly on it.
I should get the prototype of the buffer circuit sometime by the end of this week. Depending on the route taken, it will range from 1 buffer circuit to 5 circuits with an op amp, which I'm told will enable combining all 5 piezos. I guess we'll see how it goes.
I didn't understand before that you were letting the string sit on the cable. That should work well, but it sounds like a lot of work.
Yeah, it could potentially be some work, but i'll hope for the best with the elements under the bridge first.
That's why I suggested the cable under the bridge. You would get an even response with the same amount of work.
I've found a good place to put piezo cable @ that is loud enough for me, right under the front of the bridge. I tried the good old round elements, no go. Since i wasn't very good at placing the 2' of piezo cable, it is lost. I'll need to order more. Plays pretty good though.
The round piezo discs work well on a conventional URB, because the bridge has two "feet" on it...on your bridge design, getting an even response with discs, or even with a ribbon will prove difficult, be prepared to use small shims of a hard substance (I recommend cutting a couple of strips from a coke can and "sandwiching" the element in this under the bridge.
As your entire bridge assembly "floats" and is not anchored, you SHOULD (operative word) get good pressure variation (hence, sound transmission) from the strings to the element.
As your entire bridge assembly "floats" and is not anchored, you SHOULD (operative word) get good pressure variation (hence, sound transmission) from the strings to the element.
Here's What I've got so far:
I had made a sound clip, must've rushed it, the wave level was too low. I'll wait until it's done to record, but believe me it's in a strong spot, plus no visible wires will be exposed, once finished.
It was time to route a cavity for the buffer circuit (The gentleman that is making the prototype is not done, just yet).
Made a thin "plate" between the bridge and the piezo cable. The thin piece screws to the bottom, to add some pressure.
Drilled through to the bridge cavity. Made a cover, just didn't fit it yet.
I had made a sound clip, must've rushed it, the wave level was too low. I'll wait until it's done to record, but believe me it's in a strong spot, plus no visible wires will be exposed, once finished.
It was time to route a cavity for the buffer circuit (The gentleman that is making the prototype is not done, just yet).
Made a thin "plate" between the bridge and the piezo cable. The thin piece screws to the bottom, to add some pressure.
Drilled through to the bridge cavity. Made a cover, just didn't fit it yet.
at first i thought that was on the front, i was wondering what you were doing to that lovely body. buts its on the back, so alls good 
It plays pretty good, action is not too low, not too high **just right**. Still waiting on the guy making the buffer circuit, then I'll need to decide where i'm putting the jack and volume and perhaps a passive tone (Although I have an old Japanese Ibanez soungear, I could snatch the active electronics out of that, all of which I could put on the cavity cover on the back).
Sound clips are drawing near. Didn't think of doing a short vid, maybe (gotta get my UB skills back, been awhile
). Cool thing was, the tripod i bought at walbogs (walmart) for $30 and some change.
Sound clips are drawing near. Didn't think of doing a short vid, maybe (gotta get my UB skills back, been awhile
). Cool thing was, the tripod i bought at walbogs (walmart) for $30 and some change.I enjoy seeing a creative mind at work...keep those posts coming!
I did see a comment about the type of wood you chose...on the positive side...cherry can give a nice "woody" sound I hear and since you are using piezo's you are heading in that direction already (I am into that sound). Poplar although common is supposed to be able to give some mellow sounds with the right board.
jp
I did see a comment about the type of wood you chose...on the positive side...cherry can give a nice "woody" sound I hear and since you are using piezo's you are heading in that direction already (I am into that sound). Poplar although common is supposed to be able to give some mellow sounds with the right board.
jp
I have always wanted to make one of those designs...I have wood waiting for it. An idea I always thought would be good would be a retractable single leg that could be extended to desire length for use, but, retract into a cavity in the body (would take a long drill)
Another idea is to use one of those sturdy tripods used in drum kits...maybe a cymbal or snair stand...they are strong and you could get a used one inexpensive...some have adjustable height too...
jp
Another idea is to use one of those sturdy tripods used in drum kits...maybe a cymbal or snair stand...they are strong and you could get a used one inexpensive...some have adjustable height too...
jp
Worked on the back cover, started putting the poly to it shortly after. Sloped the inside upper part, so it pops up.
Mounted the truss rod cover:
More pics on the tripod:
Mounted the truss rod cover:
More pics on the tripod:
