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First build: 5 string EUB

I dont want to build an EUB, but an actual upright which will be quite a challenge.

You're definitely not kidding about a "challenge"!

I, myself, wouldn't even attempt thinking about building an AUB anytime soon, that's ALOT of work and it's not cheap either. Good luck with it though.
 
Well im not just going to jump into it with no knowledge:smug:, im basically rounding up all the materials im going to need little by little, and basically schooling myself trough countless articles in the web in my free time , I might buy a book or two like the ones you recommended, but so far articles all over google seem really helpful, hopefully ill be ready to start by next month:hyper: Theres even an article about how to make an Acoustic upright out of an Bathtub which looks really interesting.
 
Well, I learned a hard lesson, which could have cost me my left eye :eek:

I was slotting the g on the nut on sunday(the last one to slot) I was using a drill and laying the bit into the nut, i was using a 1/16" bit, the bit snapped and flipped in between my eye and my upper eyelid, once I jumped back, I realized I had about 3/4" of a bit in my eye. I had to open my eye real wide and slide the bit out from between my eye and eyelid, long story short, I scratched my cornea and my inner eyelid pretty good. Fortunately It was noting permanent, which makes me realize, i was a dumbass for not wearing safety glasses (plus I need to just get a nut file set). After 2 days now, it's alot better, It was very blurry and sore. I just figured I'd share one of my stupid, dumbass mistakes :)


Now,
Concerning the bass....

Looks like most of the hard work is done. Alot of it now will be cosmetic, until the guy I know finished the test buffer circuit and I get the saddles drilled for the piezo cable.

Pics:

EUBbuild2-9-09002.jpg

EUBbuild2-9-09003.jpg

EUBbuild2-9-09004.jpg

EUBbuild2-9-09006.jpg



It's a little blurry, but you might see 2 scratches in my eye.

EUBbuild2-9-09001.jpg
 
And now.......

Stain on the fingerboard. I used an Ebony stain came out dark, dammit, dark! I'll be sanding this some more, most likely, i'll be gumming up sandpaper, more than smoothing the surface:

EUBbuild2-12-09001.jpg

EUBbuild2-12-09002.jpg




Buffed up the hardware (Tail piece, bridge and nut.):

EUBbuild2-12-09003.jpg

EUBbuild2-12-09004.jpg

EUBbuild2-12-09005.jpg




Filed the saddle pieces smooth, I believe I am done with the bridge (for the most part, except for the piezo cable holes through the saddles):

EUBbuild2-12-09006.jpg

EUBbuild2-12-09007.jpg




Ok, this might be ridiculous. A camcorder tripod (Although I saw a Kydd bass on this kid of tripod, it was a little bigger). I've had this around for several years, I'm a pack rat, so sometimes these things pay off. One thing missing, the mount part that goes on the camera, no problem, gots plenty of wood. I made a mount out of oak, got it fitted and beveled the top and bottom edges, so that the lever locks. I'll just need to mount it to the bass when i finish, god willing.

EUBbuild2-12-09009.jpg

EUBbuild2-12-09010.jpg

EUBbuild2-12-09011.jpg
 
Agreed, you did a good job on that.

Sorry to hear about the eye, but good to know about the risk, I was planning to make the nut on my bass the same way. Enter full face shield.:D

It was more about the method of slotting the nut more than anything, that's why I'm hitting up stu mac for nut files. I can't wait to sand the fingerboard down a little and get another coat on smoother than the first.
 
Ok, so, the stain didn't work so well that thick (didn't level well after sanding).
but,
It looks like I will stain more lighter instead, plus the grain
looks good with it that way, plus put a coat of wipe on poly.

Also had a chance to smooth out the rest of the real estate and put 2 coats of tung oil before adding the wipe on poly.
 
Coats of poly to the fingerboard, another tung oil coat to the back and buffed the tops on the body and headstock. Once the tung oil has time to dry, a couple of coats of poly to the back and an overall buff down, she'll be ready for a piezo test, I'll put 2 under the bridge, just to see how well they work first. If they happen to work good, i'll go that route. If they don't, each string will have it's own piezo "cable" in each saddle.

EUBbuild2-14-09003.jpg

EUBbuild2-14-09004.jpg

EUBbuild2-14-09006.jpg

EUBbuild2-14-09001.jpg

EUBbuild2-14-09005.jpg

EUBbuild2-14-09002.jpg

EUBbuild2-14-09007.jpg
 
Thanks guys.


Put a few more coats of poly on the back and fingerboard, i'll buff the top-most layers and do it some more.
I'll buff the back to gloss, the fingerboard, i'll buff only to satin.

EUBbuild2-15-09002.jpg

EUBbuild2-15-09003.jpg

EUBbuild2-15-09005.jpg

EUBbuild2-15-09004.jpg



Once all the layers of finish are done, it'll be time to test out some piezos, see what works the best.
 
how hard is the poly to put on? cause, i was thinkin maybe an oil finish isnt hard enough. i want it to be durable

V,
Wipe on poly is just as easy to apply as tung oil. To make it durable, you'll need to do several coats. So far on this bass, i have 4 coats on the back, as soon as this last coat is dry, it'll be the second time that I've buffed it with fine steelwool (0000). Once the finish is buffed, it's very smooth, then when I apply another coat, it goes on smoother each time. Lastly, if you're going for a "gloss", buff the last coat with (0000)steel wool, then buff with a brown paper bag, come out extremely well.

So far, I've use 3M wipe on poly and Minwax wipe on poly.