That wood is so nice I'd leave it natural. Maybe a layer of something darker to sand off and leave in the pores to make the top pop even more if anything.Did a little bit of finessing some of the edges and couldn’t resist a quick shot of Napthia.
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Thinking about a natural finish again....Hmmmm... open to suggestions
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Overall it looks awesome
Thanks!! With my last bass I did a lot of experimenting with TransTint, probably a bit too much.
- Apr 18, 2008
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- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Just catching up on this thread - wow, things are looking great! Beautiful work.
I love this:
Yes, my friend, it most definitely is!
I love this:
Shinto is a cool rasp
Yes, my friend, it most definitely is!
Did a little bit of finessing some of the edges and couldn’t resist a quick shot of Napthia.
View attachment 2878351
View attachment 2878350
Thinking about a natural finish again....Hmmmm... open to suggestions
First of all WOW.
I was traveling and didn't see the photos load until today. Nice work on this!!!
With regards to the Transtints - you can make that wood grain even more alive by hitting it with some dark mission brown, and then sanding it back. It will make the rays deeper and contrast with the light grain!
Just catching up on this thread - wow, things are looking great! Beautiful work.
I love this:
Yes, my friend, it most definitely is!
Thanks for the compliments!!
Love that Shinto beast!
It’s funny because I also picked up a long round microplane (not the fine tooth one), and thought it would come in handy doing the edges of the neck peg head and I didn’t like it. Just used regular files on that area before scrapers.
Thanks Lonny!
I’ve been fortunate be able to take my time on this build.
I think a grain pop with dk mission brown would go well with this top and still retain its natural look. Thanks for your thoughts.
You apply yours with water?
Yep, water will get the job done. Just bear in mind it will open the grain somewhat, so you'll want to make sure you smooth those areas when you do your sandback.
If you take a look starting at post #41 in my latest build, you can see the before/after of dark mission brown on burled maple. Very striking change!
New Lonnybass: Extreme Birdseye Burl
That before and after is striking!
How you glossed it looks awesome too.
I’m lacking spray equipment and have plans to wipe on or rub in West Systems epoxy.
Also still figuring out my control cavity plan - you’ve got that cool thing going on with yours.
I actually hand-apply all my finishes as well - I've experimented with a variety of oil/urethanes and the one I'm liking the most is Behlen's rock hard tabletop varnish. I do about 12 to 15 coats, thinned, and let it cure for a few weeks. It seems to buff up much better than other finishes I've used - once leveled out, any light witness lines disappear with Meguiar's Scratch-X and Mirror Glaze.
Awesome, maybe I'll look into your method more then because you're bass finishes come out awesome looking!
Is the Behlens super smelly? Just thinking about curing in the house and all. Did you use a rattle can shellack in your process? I've got the Meguiars you mentioned and a few others.
The Behlen's is kind of stinky, about on par with other stuff I've used, so you'll definitely want to make sure you have good ventilation as you apply it and as it dries. I use a few thin coats of spray shellac after I apply the dye to lock it in and prevent runs when I put on the varnish. You can buy good oil/varnish brushes at Lowes and Home Depot. Let me know if you have questions!
Thanks! Depending on how fast it cures or gets past the "angry smell" stage, I can probably do it outside then bring it inside after a bit. I'll start checking out the prices.. Much appreciated!
One consideration to add - you may find that the dry and cure times are longer in your part of FL than what I encountered in MN, especially with spring coming up in a few months. Couldn't hurt to let it cure up an extra week or two if you are going for a shiny finish! Rockler carries the Behlens which is where I got mine from.
Good point. It's been a cool/cold fall with not much humidity lately so, I might want to get this done soon
I'll see if Rockler is better than my local WoodCraft store (most likely is).
Good point. It's been a cool/cold fall with not much humidity lately so, I might want to get this done soon
I'll see if Rockler is better than my local WoodCraft store (most likely is).
Yes definitely time it to these next few weeks if you can get it into finish without rushing things. The only downside of the urethanes is that they can be a pain to wait for a full cure, especially in humidity. But I've found that if you give the Behlen's enough time to really cure up, it will polish like glass.
I'm getting excited to learn there is something less expensive. Even though the epoxy route with West systems is probably less smelly and might cure faster, I haven't used it and getting it to gloss might be a pain in the you know what
Is this the thinner/reducer you're using (Behlen)?: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Any particular ratio?
I'm getting excited to learn there is something less expensive. Even though the epoxy route with West systems is probably less smelly and might cure faster, I haven't used it and getting it to gloss might be a pain in the you know what
Is this the thinner/reducer you're using (Behlen)?: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Any particular ratio?
A few thoughts on finishing...are you planning to use the West Mirror Coat? It's good stuff, but the challenge I have found with epoxy is that it's relatively unforgiving with witness lines. Like polyurethane, it builds in successful coats rather than melting together - but I haven't been able to buff out witness lines in epoxy like I've been able to do with some of the better varnish blends. You sand too low in one area, your only solution is to recoat and try again.
The claro walnut bass in my avatar was finished with General Finishes Arm-R-Seal (another oil/urethane blend), and that stuff buffed up nicely to a warm semi-gloss as well as the Behlen's. I also did a couple recent instruments with Benjamin Moore clear gloss varnish, but the retailer near me stopped carrying it and I had to find some alternatives.
My advice, try the Behlen's if you can find it. Pour an equal amount of varnish and mineral spirits (easily procured in the paint section at Lowes and Home Depot) into a tupperware type container with a sealing top. Add a couple drops of Japan Drier (also available in the paint section). Stir carefully to evenly mix the thicker varnish with the thinner.
Then, using brush labeled for varnish and oil-based finished, apply about three or four smooth, drip-free coats. There's a technique called tipping off that takes a little practice to help get your coats to lay down evenly (google it and you can read up). After your third or fourth coat, you'll see the finish starting to build in some areas and not in others. This is normal.
Give it a light sanding with 320 all over the body, blast it with some compressed air, and apply another three or four coats.
Repeat 4x.
After about 12 to 15 coats, you should have a hard film finish over the entire instrument that is hopefully drip-free and relatively even looking. Don't go crazy if there are sags or defects, they can all be sanded out once cured.
Wait three weeks. Maybe four.
I can walk you through the sanding and polishing process to get the high gloss look you mentioned going after.
A few thoughts on finishing...are you planning to use the West Mirror Coat? It's good stuff, but the challenge I have found with epoxy is that it's relatively unforgiving with witness lines. Like polyurethane, it builds in successful coats rather than melting together - but I haven't been able to buff out witness lines in epoxy like I've been able to do with some of the better varnish blends. You sand too low in one area, your only solution is to recoat and try again.
The claro walnut bass in my avatar was finished with General Finishes Arm-R-Seal (another oil/urethane blend), and that stuff buffed up nicely to a warm semi-gloss as well as the Behlen's. I also did a couple recent instruments with Benjamin Moore clear gloss varnish, but the retailer near me stopped carrying it and I had to find some alternatives.
My advice, try the Behlen's if you can find it. Pour an equal amount of varnish and mineral spirits (easily procured in the paint section at Lowes and Home Depot) into a tupperware type container with a sealing top. Add a couple drops of Japan Drier (also available in the paint section). Stir carefully to evenly mix the thicker varnish with the thinner.
Then, using brush labeled for varnish and oil-based finished, apply about three or four smooth, drip-free coats. There's a technique called tipping off that takes a little practice to help get your coats to lay down evenly (google it and you can read up). After your third or fourth coat, you'll see the finish starting to build in some areas and not in others. This is normal.
Give it a light sanding with 320 all over the body, blast it with some compressed air, and apply another three or four coats.
Repeat 4x.
After about 12 to 15 coats, you should have a hard film finish over the entire instrument that is hopefully drip-free and relatively even looking. Don't go crazy if there are sags or defects, they can all be sanded out once cured.
Wait three weeks. Maybe four.
I can walk you through the sanding and polishing process to get the high gloss look you mentioned going after.
Thanks for this great detail! Super helpful
I was planning on West System 105 + 207 hardener. And rub it in thin coats. Bruce Johnson's friend out in his location does this french polish sort of technique that I haven't seen but hear about. Q: Approx how much wait time in between the first 3-4 thin coats, and then between the Repeat 4x? I realize there's an overall differences based on humidity and temp, etc..
Thanks for this great detail! Super helpful
Q: Approx how much wait time in between the first 3-4 thin coats, and then between the Repeat 4x? I realize there's an overall differences based on humidity and temp, etc..
Bruce knows his stuff! If you have time to practice on some scrap, you might want to try to do an entire finish schedule and buffing process so you can get the hang of your techniques and such before putting it on your bass.
In answer to your question about wait time, I am generally able do three to four coats a day. The varnish blends I use are typically dry enough to touch after about six hours or so, though not hard- that's what takes a few weeks.
Forgot to mention - when I do my in-between sanding, I wet down the sandpaper with some mineral spirits to help it glide. The further along you go, you'll find that the surface film starts to build really smooth, and the wetsanding will help you pull out any surface imperfections without leaving scuffs underneath your next coat.
