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First Full Build: Drop in a pond ripple effect

Gave it a go this eve.

Very happy with the results!

Thanks for the great advice Martin! Great timing :)

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I’ll install one more magnet on each side of the battery fulcrum.
 
Asking a bit of advice...

While I’m gathering supplies to finish the body and neck, I’ve taken the last opportunity to do shaping and refinements.

The back of the body has this nice scoop (where the neck screws and ferrules bolt into the body. From the top part at the 12th fret to the lower bout is just a bit over 3/4” thick. I would like to take off maybe 1/4” to make it less intrusive at the start for my left thumb... Will 1/2” thickness be too thin structurally?

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I could possibly go from 1/2 inch on the left and gradually bring it up to the full thickness.

Or re-route this whole area as I have the template and a rounded template bit.

Thoughts? Thanks!
 
I like the shape a lot and personally I would go thinner, considering you have a big shoulder holding the neck at the bass side, the pocket depth is still significant. If you go gradually, you could affect the thickness of the body under just one screw.

Beautiful detailed work here! :)

Agree with every point made by my esteemed colleague. :smug:
 
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Next bass I'm going to need a gorge so I can get some finessing into areas like this. Maybe a neck thru will be my next?
Perhaps you mean a gouge? Or are you going to go for the "factory reliced" look by tossing it into a gorge?

Practically speaking, if you have the time and no gouge, chisels and sandpaper can do a lot. Maybe even alternate applications for that new flap wheel (before you get it loaded up with fret-metal.)

And under the heading of it seems obvious until you forget, do remember to shorten the screw (might even want to use an alternate finish on that one screw to indicate that it's the odd one out, but that gets into trying to compensate for user idiocy, and they eventually find a way to dork that up. Just put a note in the owners manual that it's the short one, and point to it when they screw it up and want a free repair. Not that they will actually read the thing, but you'll have a copy in your files to point at.)
 
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Perhaps you men a gouge? Or are you going to go for the "factory reliced" look by tossing it into a gorge?

Practically speaking, if you have the time and no gouge, chisels and sandpaper can do a lot. Maybe even alternate applications for that new flap wheel (before you get it loaded up with fret-metal.)

Yeah, that’s me and my horrendous two thumb mobile phone typing/bad brain antics kicking up again!

I like that idea! I could certainly use that flap wheel first on this type of application before I hit it on the frets. Nice idea :)

In the area on the actual neck that surrounds the body curve I want to curve up to it and this could work for that also. I did a little hand sanding on that yesterday and the little animated emoji light bulb on my left shoulder blinking “gouge” was nagging me. :)
 
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I'm sorry, but I'm really missing some updates here. Sorry for my impatience, but I'm really curious where you are heading next with this build :)

Thanks for asking! Family and crazy work schedule got the better of me.

Since the last update I went slimmer on the back neck pocket then contouring.

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A bit ago did the pot shaft holes

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I’ve been nibbling at some neck work (my thread about round fret ends).

I’ll start finishing once I’ve done some “last minute” tweaks and fine sanding.

The neck will get the can on the left and the body will get the “Classic Epoxy French polish treatment” - by Bruce Johnson’s friend Jon

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Cheers!
 

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Thanks for asking! Family and crazy work schedule got the better of me.

Since the last update I went slimmer on the back neck pocket then contouring.

View attachment 2950584

View attachment 2950585

View attachment 2950586

A bit ago did the pot shaft holes

View attachment 2950588

I’ve been nibbling at some neck work (my thread about round fret ends).

I’ll start finishing once I’ve done some “last minute” tweaks and fine sanding.

The neck will get the can on the left and the body will get the “Classic Epoxy French polish treatment” - by Bruce Johnson’s friend Jon

View attachment 2950595

Cheers!

I would say, that web is still to hefty. Carve as much timber off it as possible. I did a similar thing on my last 5 string. Amazing sustain, but overkill. By the time you've done that sort of thing, you're really in the "neck through" category as far as stability and tone goes.

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I could play an open string, shake the bass vigorously and there'd be no discernible change in pitch. :D
 
I would say, that web is still to hefty. Carve as much timber off it as possible. I did a similar thing on my last 5 string. Amazing sustain, but overkill. By the time you've done that sort of thing, you're really in the "neck through" category as far as stability and tone goes.

View attachment 2950885

I could play an open string, shake the bass vigorously and there'd be no discernible change in pitch. :D

Very interesting! Thanks for sharing. I was thinking that I was approaching neck thru territory as I walked thru and did the steps of shaping this one. I thought several times “the best way to improve this design is a neck thru”. Which lead to my want for a gouge :). But if I keep thinking about it I may come up with another bolt on design...hmmm
 
I would say, that web is still to hefty. Carve as much timber off it as possible. I did a similar thing on my last 5 string. Amazing sustain, but overkill. By the time you've done that sort of thing, you're really in the "neck through" category as far as stability and tone goes.

View attachment 2950885

I could play an open string, shake the bass vigorously and there'd be no discernible change in pitch. :D


Hey @reverendrally, you mentioned that the web is still too hefty. What’s a web, just curious :)
 
Hey @reverendrally, you mentioned that the web is still too hefty. What’s a web, just curious :)

A web is an area of material strengthening a structure. Usually around a hole, rib or edge. Think webbed toes on a frog. In your case, I mean all the timber near the flange for the extra hole on the upper bass side of the neck pocket. You should end up with something more like a little ear with the hole in it. I reckon you could thin it right down to around 10mm maximum and 6mm thickeness between the screw ferrule and the neck. Maybe even a little less than that if it's a very dense timber. We usually over-engineer solid-body guitars. I'd carve some more out of that long curve too. To allow for better thumb access in the upper positions. In that position, less is more.
 
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A web is an area of material strengthening a structure. Usually around a hole, rib or edge. Think webbed toes on a frog. In your case, I mean all the timber near the flange for the extra hole on the upper bass side of the neck pocket. You should end up with something more like a little ear with the hole in it. I reckon you could thin it right down to around 10mm maximum and 6mm thickeness between the screw ferrule and the neck. Maybe even a little less than that if it's a very dense timber. We usually over-engineer solid-body guitars. I'd carve some more out of that long curve too. To allow for better thumb access in the upper positions. In that position, less is more.

Yes, I get it now. I agree with you on that thought. I realized I wanted better left thumb clearance at fret 12. So I thinned it thcI think If I went that thin, I might get concerned with strength. But what do I know? (it’s my first one these). Thanks!