I found myself at the hardware store yesterday looking for something else after work, and picked up some 1/4-20 Socket Head Cap Screws and corresponding inserts while I was there.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
First project: Folk Bass DIY upright
- Thread starter NKBassman
- Start date
I found myself at the hardware store yesterday looking for something else after work, and picked up some 1/4-20 Socket Head Cap Screws and corresponding inserts while I was there.
Ok, back to work on the new neck.
I've started cutting the width taper, and thinking about the back carve.
When I was working out my headstock template, I used a forstner bit on a drill press to rough in the lower curve of the volute, and positioned it to also define what I intended to be the front-to-back thickness of the neck at the nut end. So now I have a little scoop at the nut that is more or less the intended final thickness, and then returning to full thickness of the blank immediately for the remaining length of the neck. As I prepare for facet carving, am I right to assume that I should rough-in the thickness taper from end to end first before starting the back profile facets? This makes sense to me. Or, can I just plan my facets according to the full thickness of the neck blank?
I've started cutting the width taper, and thinking about the back carve.
When I was working out my headstock template, I used a forstner bit on a drill press to rough in the lower curve of the volute, and positioned it to also define what I intended to be the front-to-back thickness of the neck at the nut end. So now I have a little scoop at the nut that is more or less the intended final thickness, and then returning to full thickness of the blank immediately for the remaining length of the neck. As I prepare for facet carving, am I right to assume that I should rough-in the thickness taper from end to end first before starting the back profile facets? This makes sense to me. Or, can I just plan my facets according to the full thickness of the neck blank?
Last edited:
For example. Method One on the left, carve thickness taper over the length of the neck before facet carving. Method 2 on the right, facet carve without setting thickness first.
Last edited:
Yes, you should do that. And file the flat back surface fairly flat and smooth while you are doing it. That will save you from lumpiness later on.
I'm going for thiiiiicc and chunky on this, intending for it to be played in an upright position.I haven't done a headstock like that, but I do rout the back to the neck down to 1mm away from final thickness before shaping the neck. That way I know for sure it won't be too thick.
Borrowed the first-position thickness dimension from here, along with some confirmations from a friend with an upright at home.
Finished trimming the width taper.
Did some headstock shaping and started cleaning it up with some 120g sandpaper.
Mock-up with the pre-made scroll.
Ebony fingerboard.
Stain test. Wipe on the vinegar ebonizing solution with an old sock and let it sit over night.
Did some headstock shaping and started cleaning it up with some 120g sandpaper.
Mock-up with the pre-made scroll.
Ebony fingerboard.
Stain test. Wipe on the vinegar ebonizing solution with an old sock and let it sit over night.
Last edited:
Ebonizing test came out darker than expected, but not at all unpleasant. I’m sure I’ll be quite happy with the final appearance once its sanded back with a few coats of oil.
Side by side, immediately after application last night VS about 12 hours later this morning.
Side by side, immediately after application last night VS about 12 hours later this morning.
Last edited:
Well, using my handy new $10 digital caliper from Princess Auto, I'm a little thinner at the 1st position set point than where I intended to be based on my CAD drawing. I'll chock that up to template slop... not really a big deal. Based on the Nick Lloyd upright specs I posted above, I was shooting for around 42mm total thickness including fingerboard at the nut. I'm at about 1.25" (31.9mm) right now excluding the fingerboard (39.8mm incl. the 5/16" FB), so it's already thinner than intended, and by the time I'm done shaping and sanding it'll be a bit thinner still. But I've got nothing to compare it against so it'll be whatever thickness it ends up being at the end of the day.
I didn't really have a solid plan for the thickness taper down the length of the neck. Would it be typical to just go with a linear taper from the current set point at the 1st position to the final/max thickness at the heel? I'm at 1.5" exactly at the heel, so that'd be about a 0.25" taper over the length of the neck.
I didn't really have a solid plan for the thickness taper down the length of the neck. Would it be typical to just go with a linear taper from the current set point at the 1st position to the final/max thickness at the heel? I'm at 1.5" exactly at the heel, so that'd be about a 0.25" taper over the length of the neck.
Last edited:
Vinegar with steel wool dissolved in it, resulting in an iron acetate solution, which reacts with the tannins in the wood darkening the colour.
There’s some discussion and links around Page 5 or so.
Reposting this question from above just to make sure it doesn't get buried:
Would it be typical to just go with a linear taper from the current set point at around the 1st position to the final/max thickness at the heel? I'm at 1.5" exactly at the heel, so that'd be about a 0.25" taper over the length of the neck.
Also, could someone double check my order of operations for the next few steps. Basically, I'm not sure if I should trim the thickness before gluing on the fingerboard... Having a square back to the neck blank seems like it would be easier to clamp the fingerboard down, but on the other hand I'd also like to get as much power tool work out of the way before attaching the fingerboard. I'm also procrastinating gluing the fingerboard down because it makes me anxious.
Would it be typical to just go with a linear taper from the current set point at around the 1st position to the final/max thickness at the heel? I'm at 1.5" exactly at the heel, so that'd be about a 0.25" taper over the length of the neck.
Also, could someone double check my order of operations for the next few steps. Basically, I'm not sure if I should trim the thickness before gluing on the fingerboard... Having a square back to the neck blank seems like it would be easier to clamp the fingerboard down, but on the other hand I'd also like to get as much power tool work out of the way before attaching the fingerboard. I'm also procrastinating gluing the fingerboard down because it makes me anxious.
- Re-shape the mounting block where it exits the top of the drum. Do this first in case I royally mess it up (unlikely) and have to build a new one. It's a little bit aesthetic, a little bit weight shedding, and a little bit carving practice.
- Determine mounting location for the neck to define where the heel will start and neck shaping will end.
- Install threaded anchors in the neck to match existing mounting bolt holes.
- Trim neck blank to length.
- Glue on fingerboard
. - Taper fingerboard to match neck.
- Cut neck thickness taper.
- Neck profile carving .
Last edited:
Reposting this question from above just to make sure it doesn't get buried:
Would it be typical to just go with a linear taper from the current set point at around the 1st position to the final/max thickness at the heel? I'm at 1.5" exactly at the heel, so that'd be about a 0.25" taper over the length of the neck.
Also, could someone double check my order of operations for the next few steps. Basically, I'm not sure if I should trim the thickness before gluing on the fingerboard... Having a square back to the neck blank seems like it would be easier to clamp the fingerboard down, but on the other hand I'd also like to get as much power tool work out of the way before attaching the fingerboard. I'm also procrastinating gluing the fingerboard down because it makes me anxious.
- Re-shape the mounting block where it exits the top of the drum. Do this first in case I royally mess it up (unlikely) and have to build a new one. It's a little bit aesthetic, a little bit weight shedding, and a little bit carving practice.
- Determine mounting location for the neck to define where the heel will start and neck shaping will end.
- Install threaded anchors in the neck to match existing mounting bolt holes.
- Trim neck blank to length.
- Glue on fingerboard
- Taper fingerboard to match neck.
- Cut neck thickness taper.
- Neck profile carving
That's the sequence I prefer when I build necks. I like to glue the fingerboard on while the neck is still rectangular and oversize. The fingerboard is a rectangular board at that point. Then trim the neck to the final taper, vertical and horizontal. Then cut the fingerboard's top surface to radius and vertical taper, and cut the slots. Then shape the back of the neck. Last, do the final surface true-up of the fingerboard.
That sequence is important to make sure the fingerboard surface is true when the neck is at its final shape and size.
If you want to pre-radius and slot the fingerboard before gluing it on, that's okay. You have to be more careful gluing it on, to get it in the right position. And, don't assume that it's going to stay flat and true. Do a final true-up after the neck is at its final shape.
Last edited:
One advantage of gluing the fingerboard on while the neck is still rectangular, is that while carving the nick you can get a better idea for the feel of the neck.
Disassembled the whole thing again and getting back to work.
Lining up the new neck on the neck beam. You can't see it in the picture, but I set up a square on the centerline of the beam at the bridge location and sighted the laser level down the TR channel and tweaked the alignment until the laser caught the edge of the square. Then tightened the clamps and ...
Marked the heel and mounting bolt holes. Realized that I messed up when I cut the width taper and tapered right through the heel area instead of leaving it wider. Mounting bolts were looking a little too close to the outer edge of the neck, especially considering I was planning on using inserts and machine screws.
So I glued some wings onto the heel area, and gave them a little transition with a round bottom router bit. Had another little oops with the router but I’m not sweating it at this point. These wings are much wider than they need to be and will be trimmed to fit the heel block once it’s mounted.
Lastly, drilled out and glued in a little piece of dowel to fix the accidental over-route on the TR channel. No more slop in the long direction now.
Lining up the new neck on the neck beam. You can't see it in the picture, but I set up a square on the centerline of the beam at the bridge location and sighted the laser level down the TR channel and tweaked the alignment until the laser caught the edge of the square. Then tightened the clamps and ...
Marked the heel and mounting bolt holes. Realized that I messed up when I cut the width taper and tapered right through the heel area instead of leaving it wider. Mounting bolts were looking a little too close to the outer edge of the neck, especially considering I was planning on using inserts and machine screws.
So I glued some wings onto the heel area, and gave them a little transition with a round bottom router bit. Had another little oops with the router but I’m not sweating it at this point. These wings are much wider than they need to be and will be trimmed to fit the heel block once it’s mounted.
Lastly, drilled out and glued in a little piece of dowel to fix the accidental over-route on the TR channel. No more slop in the long direction now.
Last edited:
Ready for glue… I think. What am I forgetting?? 
I guess we’ll find out tomorrow.
Did not have time before leaving the house this morning to take a look at the results of my handiwork from last night, but I did just get lost in the McMaster-Carr catalogue for a good half hour at work . I ordered myself some and threaded wood inserts and neck bolts, and some clear surface filler (JB Weld or similar) to fill in all my router oopsies before the oil finish goes on.
. I ordered myself some and threaded wood inserts and neck bolts, and some clear surface filler (JB Weld or similar) to fill in all my router oopsies before the oil finish goes on.
