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Five string single cut - oak content

As with most of the East coast of the US, we're baking hot right now, I did a short ride this morning before it got too hot, but it was still 100% humidity so it was insanely easy to overheat. I spent the ride consciously not exerting so I wouldn't overheat.

An afternoon in the shop was a good alternative.

I did mostly touch up stuff.

I made a truss rod cover - I cut a section of ambrosia out of the scrap from the fingerboard and followed the line of the ambrosia to make the shape. Kind of funky, I need to get some black screws. I also fine tuned the nut a bit, it was sticking up too far on each end.
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I put screws in the control cavity cover, this is a moral defeat for me, I've been using magnets for all my covers lately. I could have used them here, but it would have been a lot of work - and in this case where the cover doesn't match the back, I don't think it's as important.
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I reworked the bridge, it ends up that in this configuration with the fingerboard all the way down the body, the strings only need to be about 2 mm over the board. While that bridge piece is in place I'm sure it's fine, there's no pressure bending it, but boy it's careful work when you're sanding or filing it. There's barely anything there. Once I got the strings low they were hitting the pickup, so with a couple more turns on the screws to pull the pickup down, I think they are the right length.
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I made a stacked knob pair for the treble/bass. The weird thing is these two are smaller than the originals in every dimension, but they look bigger in every way. I may have to make the smaller knob bigger so it doesn't look so tall.
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I also installed strap locks, the embedded kind, it balances well, very slightly neck heavy, but just barely.
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I played it for about an hour as I was finalizing the bridge, it sounds good, definitely on the bassier side, which you would expect with tapewounds. I tried recording a song, I wasn't happy with it, but I'll have to listen to it tomorrow to see if it's worth posting.

I am not 100% happy with the neck profile. I carved it before putting the fingerboard on, which is not how I usually do it. I left the shoulders too big on it, especially at the top. That may be the impetus behind Black Widow II (that's the name of this one), or at least a complete tear down, fine tune and refinish.

Also those points on the bass side aren't cool if you're playing in a recliner, no problem sitting or standing, but if it's leaning back into you those things stick into your ribs. I guess that's one of those design things. I might be able to round them off on the back a bit.
 
I played this one for the opening jam of band practice last night. It sounds great, although the range is a bit limited. If you're looking for deep, well defined bass tones, this is the bass for you. Turning up the treble adds some high end, but that deep bass is still there. If you roll off the bass it loses punch, it doesn't sound great that way. You can turn up the bass a bit and it sounds ok, but too much and it starts to get muddy. Hopefully that doesn't sound negative. It sounds great, but with one single coil pickup and tapewound strings it's only going to have so many possible sounds.

I've played it probably a couple of hours sitting on the couch and messed around a bit with it in the studio, but playing with the band always exposes any flaws. A couple I noticed:
  • as noted before you can slap on this bass (and it actually sounds pretty good), but you can't pop because there is no room between the strings and the fingerboard or pickup. I think I will try lower the pickup a bit more, I don't think I'll get to the point where you can pop, but even fingerstyle I found my fingers hitting the pickup. I think it would be more comfortable to play with a bit more room under the strings. I'll have to see how much volume I lose - there should be a happy medium.
  • The treble side edge on the fretboard needs more rounding over, it's a bit sharp. I rounded it over before putting the CA on, but I need to round over a bit more so it's comfortable. When I pull the tape off the fingerboard the edge is razor sharp, the trick is to not sand through, which is always tough on edges.
  • While the edges of the black dye are not perfect, I think I can live with everything except the treble side of the fingerboard. I'm going to try and sand that back to get rid of the dye that migrated up onto the fingerboard. Hopefully I can do that without ruining the finish on the body.
  • The neck profile isn't as bad as I thought it was, I'll leave it as is for now.
Overall a very nice bass, easy to play and sounds great.

(side note: I played the Carl Factor for the rest of practice, that is a very nice bass!)
 
Well done, @Jisch

The bass looks great. I also agree with all of your hindsight observations I.e. the maple vs ash, etc.

Oh and whoever had 4 weeks in the pool won. I gotta learn to slow down.

I think that reining in your enthusiasm would benefit you by, for example, making simple jigs instead of free hand routing. I know that you only did this on concealed areas, but I am afraid that workflow is going to cost you heartache at some point.

Nice bass!
 
I was on vacation and missed the "end" of this build until I just saw it in your profile photo. I have to say, in terms of visual impact at least, I think this is my favorite bass of all your build threads. It's just really stunning. So refreshing to see people building based on a creative vision like this.
 
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Since I'm not getting any inspiration on the next build I'm going to go back and fix a few things that are bugging me on this build, some are expected from "first time building like this" inexperience, some are bad choices and some are just things that I found after playing it a bit.

On the operating table
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First there is this specific area on the treble side of the fingerboard down by the pickup. It wicked up some dye and I didn't fix it before putting on the Tru Oil. It's a painful spot to get and I don't want to mess up the CA coating, but it bugs me a lot. I also can't sand through the dye on the oak, so this will be tricky
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If I ever mention that "a chunky neck would be nice on this build" yell at me. I've done this same thing probably three or four times thinking a chunky neck would go nice with a particular style body. I hate chunky necks. I pulled out my profile gauge to see what I was dealing with. The sketch inside is just a "what if" kind of line, obviously I didn't use that to carve the neck (though that would be funny to have the neck come out all ragged like that and I could point back to this pic and say "nailed it!").
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The problem with this carving is there are no facets to follow, it's a bit of an eyeball type carve. As I said, I've done this before so I wasn't afraid. I used a shinto to remove those shoulders and smoothed in into the existing carve. I kept checking with the gauge to see where I was at. Once I got it where I thought I wanted it, I used a scraper to remove ridges, then a long sanding block to smooth it all out.

I took this measurement when I was pretty much done with the bass side, but hadn't started on the treble side.
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The difference is easier to see when I flip the gauge on the neck:
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I know that doesn't look like much, but the neck feels so much better. Once I got the treble side done I did the same gauge measurement and flip up and down the neck to check for consistency.

Note that I didn't change the thickness of the neck, it's already about as thin as I want it to be, those shoulders make a neck feel super thick. I may take more away, I'll check it again before I start the refinish process.

I had to reintegrate the heel and volute areas after removing that material, I didn't take pics of that.

I have a couple of spots on the sides of the body where I didn't get all the water based stuff off, it shows up as a cloudy area. I will sand back to wood in those spots as well. Of course those show up in the most difficult areas to sand, but I've got nothing but time.
 
For that area on the end of the fingerboard I'd probably mask the body and go at the 'board with dental tools. The finish likely isn't too thick there.
Delicate scraping and picking to remove, and then carefully refinish.
 
...Oh and I forgot I want to round over the back side of the points on the bass side, I will leave them pointy on the front. I'm sure I won't make it totally comfortable to play leaning back in a recliner, it's not THAT bad, but I think it could be better. I'm mostly typing this here so I remember to do it.
 
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I spent my lunch hour and a few random minutes in the shop today. Besides the neck I worked on a lot other stuff, most documented above. I rounded over the back side of the points. I feel like I could go a little more, but this should be more comfortable and doesn't change the look from the front.
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I went around the black part and scraped anywhere it was blurred or had speckles outside the lines. It looks marginally better, but it was pretty easy to do so I straightened it all out.

I sanded back to wood on all the spots where I could see cloudiness, then sanded them more, then a little more to try and get all the water based stuff off, hopefully I got it all. I might hit those spots one more time. Once you get the top finish off it's really hard to tell if you got all the other stuff off. It wasn't that noticeable before, but at certain angles you could see the cloudiness.

I sanded out all the tool marks and smoothed in the heel and volute, then I sanded up to 320 or so. I sanded the rest of the instrument down to 600 grit until it was flat, carefully so I didn't go through the top Tru Oil into the black. It will take a few coats before everything matches again, but I've done something similar to this in the past and after a few coats I'll sand it back and it will match up. Looks like a bike ride tonight, so I'll start applying Tru Oil tomorrow morning.
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I sanded again this morning, I found a few minor scratches to remove. I put the first coat of Tru Oil on and found a few spots that aren't quite clear of the water based finish yet. I'll wait for this to dry then go to town to get rid of those spots - I think there are four spots like this on the bass. I'll take pics of each this time to make sure I'm sanding in the right spots. Based on my last finishing experience, these will look far less pronounced once a few coats of Tru Oil are on it, they are very obvious right now, which is good.
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So I sanded the spots that showed up as still having some water based finish underneath. I sanded, resanded then sanded again. I put another coat of Tru Oil on and different spots showed up, maybe they were more subdued and I only saw the bigger spots, but I'll have to do more sanding this morning. I've got nothing but time, I'm determined to get rid of any spots in this finish.
 
I got probably 10 coats on, most of the bass already had 10 on it. I got to a nice flat coat and decided that was it. I put all the pieces back together. Then I took the shine off the neck with a 500 abralon pad, put a couple of coats of wax on it and buffed it with a pad in my drill.

I like the neck profile so much better. It sounds as nice as before, I love this thing.

See how much better the neck profile is?
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New body shot, I guess I didn't show the volume knob before:
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Cleaned up fingerboard (maybe the one pic that will actually show something I did):
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I'm planning on playing solo at an open mic on Monday (I've never done anything like that solo before), I'm going to bring this bass. I plan on playing/singing Psycho Killer, Walk on the Wild Side and one original. If I can muster the nerve.