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Fodera Club Part XVII

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Any non-painted FB should be oiled regularly -- irrespective of climate, but ABSOLUTELY in dry climates.

Includes all rosewoods, Pau Ferro, all Ebonies, Pink Ivory, in short every FB material that has not been spray finished.

Regards,

J

Hey J,

Here's an alternative view on fingerboards that I's be curious about your response on:

Oiling your fingerboard regular might keep it from drying out, but it's also saturating the wood on continual basis. What happens to wood that is wet? It gets soft. Perhaps not over ten years, but likely over 50. My guitar tech reports getting fingerboards that were oiled regularly on old guitars that he can simply scoop out the wood with his finger.

An alternative treatment is to use very dried out Minwax pastewax in very small amount on the board when you first get it and seal the fingerboard slightly from the elements. It also gives the board a slightly subtle sheen and harder feeling, which I prefer. I've been doing this the last ten years and people who've bought basses from me sometimes ask me why my boards are so nice looking.

What do you think? I'm guessing your not going to be keen on it, but I've had great results, including on my new Fodera with the BRW board.
 
I got hold of an M4S today: amazing! I can compare to YYS and Monarch Deluxe with EMG P/J. The versatility of the M4S is striking and some of the PU settings just "kill". Did definitively not expect that!
 
We very much stand by what I have already presented...oil the FB using mineral oil or Fender's fretboard conditioner every 4-6 months. Do not apply wax to your FB.

Obviously, once you own the instrument you can do whatever you want with it, but I have been caring for all of my instruments the same way that we prescribe since 1980 and they remain in outstanding condition. Over-oiling a FB to the point that it becomes soft will never happen if you are doing it the right way, with the right frequency and with the right material.

Regards,

J


Hey J,

Here's an alternative view on fingerboards that I's be curious about your response on:

Oiling your fingerboard regular might keep it from drying out, but it's also saturating the wood on continual basis. What happens to wood that is wet? It gets soft. Perhaps not over ten years, but likely over 50. My guitar tech reports getting fingerboards that were oiled regularly on old guitars that he can simply scoop out the wood with his finger.

An alternative treatment is to use very dried out Minwax pastewax in very small amount on the board when you first get it and seal the fingerboard slightly from the elements. It also gives the board a slightly subtle sheen and harder feeling, which I prefer. I've been doing this the last ten years and people who've bought basses from me sometimes ask me why my boards are so nice looking.

What do you think? I'm guessing your not going to be keen on it, but I've had great results, including on my new Fodera with the BRW board.
 
All of the FB woods that we use (except for the ones that we spray finish) are "oily" woods -- that is, they are tropical hardwoods that contain a fair amount of natural oils and resins which are what allow then to remain unfinished and not "age" the way you probably have experienced when you leave less oily woods like Oak, Maple and Cherry exposed to the elements without a finish on them.

To prevent them from cracking and drying out over time, we recommend oiling them every 4-6 months as has been discussed above and in the "Caring for your Fodera" section of our website.

Regards,

J


What is the supposed benefit of oiling?
It seems counterintuitive to me.
 
Having played both extensively, I would say that the tonal range of the YYS is narrower, but it is a tone that is fairly unique and wonderful. It is relatively modern sounding compared to the M4S which was designed to have the broadest possible tonal palate (like it's big brother, the E5S).

Enjoy!!!

Jason

I got hold of an M4S today: amazing! I can compare to YYS and Monarch Deluxe with EMG P/J. The versatility of the M4S is striking and some of the PU settings just "kill". Did definitively not expect that!
 
Hey J,

Here's an alternative view on fingerboards that I's be curious about your response on:

Oiling your fingerboard regular might keep it from drying out, but it's also saturating the wood on continual basis. What happens to wood that is wet? It gets soft. Perhaps not over ten years, but likely over 50. My guitar tech reports getting fingerboards that were oiled regularly on old guitars that he can simply scoop out the wood with his finger.

An alternative treatment is to use very dried out Minwax pastewax in very small amount on the board when you first get it and seal the fingerboard slightly from the elements. It also gives the board a slightly subtle sheen and harder feeling, which I prefer. I've been doing this the last ten years and people who've bought basses from me sometimes ask me why my boards are so nice looking.

What do you think? I'm guessing your not going to be keen on it, but I've had great results, including on my new Fodera with the BRW board.


Don't confuse "wet" and "moisture" with oil- when they are thinking wet/mushy, it's water. The purpose of the oil is to create a carrier to keep a) excess moisture out, and b) maintain an even internal moisture level. Wax accomplishes the same thing- moisture barrier. The difference is that oil penetrates better than a thicker wax.
 
If I'm still able to play a bass 50 years from now I'm happy. I guess I'll wear down faster than my basses!

BTW will we still be able to fix/repair the on-board electronics in 50 years?

Won't need to... they'll be replaced by roll-on electronics long before then. I plan on having the 800 watt mod done on my AJ. That should be more than enough to drive my neodymium slacks.
 
I guess we'll all be emulated by modellers ;-)

truthfully (old guy here), i think we're sort of already there. when you read about bands that do one take and then have the pro tools operator piece together a performance, or "live albums" that are either heavy with overdubs or are pieced together from 80 different gigs, it shows me that a lot of things aren't real performances anymore.

really is sad, imho.
 
truthfully (old guy here), i think we're sort of already there. when you read about bands that do one take and then have the pro tools operator piece together a performance, or "live albums" that are either heavy with overdubs or are pieced together from 80 different gigs, it shows me that a lot of things aren't real performances anymore.

really is sad, imho.

I did a session week before last and basically the album will end up being assembled in post even though the artist wanted a "live" recording feel. But that just means that the engineer needs to take the drums along with whatever part gets moved between different takes. And I didn't need to punch in anything - just copy and past a single note for fixes.

I prefer playing live...
 
I did a session week before last and basically the album will end up being assembled in post even though the artist wanted a "live" recording feel. But that just means that the engineer needs to take the drums along with whatever part gets moved between different takes. And I didn't need to punch in anything - just copy and past a single note for fixes.

I prefer playing live...

Totally agree with you there! I'd rather have a live album with bumps and bruises that captures the feeling of the gig than have it be pieced together
 
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