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Fretless-Lined or unlined?
- Thread starter SCMan88
- Start date
Actually most Fretless basses have the side dots ON the fret positions whether or not they have lines. The exeptions are a few cheapo basses based on converting a standard fretted model and a few older fretless basses I've seen where people weren't sure what to do yet. If I had a bass with side markers like a fretted bass I'd get out the drill immediately and change them!
It's harder to get bearings on a fretless bass guitar than on say an upright. Hence getting bearings from markers IS important. And let me again point out that unless you are sitting, you pretty much can't see the fretlines anyway. So they pretty much are for noob practice. But they ARE useful and helpful for that. They are especially useful with wide neck fretless basses like 6 strings, because there is this tendency to play at an angle going from string to string across the neck. The lines help you kill that habit. And on SOME basses you can see the edges of the fretlines which also helps you mentally subdivide the spaces between the dots. But you can't count on it with all basses.
I play both lined and unlined because it's just what I own. But the lines have long ago outlived their usefulness as a playing aid. The side dots have not! In fact I'm pondering how to put LED markers on all my fretless basses for dark stages. Looking at those glue-on strips.
I am for what is best for you. If you are more comfortable with the lines, then by all means use them. If you like the unlined ones, even for no other reason that they are cool, then go that route. In the end you will more likely use your ears as a guide first anyway.
I own four fretlesses. Two are lined and two are unlined. Doesn't make a whole lot of difference in the end.
I own four fretlesses. Two are lined and two are unlined. Doesn't make a whole lot of difference in the end.
Wha!
Thanks for the many many replies!
I didn't think there will be so many
.
Now I'm less scared than befor about unlined fretless.
Only 2 more things:
If I get an unlined fretless,and in the future I would like it to be lined...
Is that possible?
And should I get my fingerboard epoxy covered to make sure it won't get destroyed?
If I use Flatwound strings,is that ok enough?
Thanks alot TBers!
I just love this place...
Thanks for the many many replies!
I didn't think there will be so many
.Now I'm less scared than befor about unlined fretless.
Only 2 more things:
If I get an unlined fretless,and in the future I would like it to be lined...
Is that possible?
And should I get my fingerboard epoxy covered to make sure it won't get destroyed?
If I use Flatwound strings,is that ok enough?
Thanks alot TBers!
I just love this place...
I prefer lined fretless, for me lines just help me to quick move my hands, but off course at the end is always your ears that judge the right intonation especially because the fingers positions are different from the 1° octave to the 2°.
It's like the concept to have the dots on the side on you fingerboard, help your moves but you can mist the intonation too using just that. So for me at the end lined are helpful to make easier the movement on the bass, than the ears are always you final check
It's just like classical musician, for example double bass player they use the positions of the hand to move with a metric steps on the fingerboard but off course they check with their ears
Cheers. Enrico
YouTube
WebSite
It's like the concept to have the dots on the side on you fingerboard, help your moves but you can mist the intonation too using just that. So for me at the end lined are helpful to make easier the movement on the bass, than the ears are always you final check
It's just like classical musician, for example double bass player they use the positions of the hand to move with a metric steps on the fingerboard but off course they check with their ears
Cheers. Enrico
YouTube
WebSite
Wha!
Thanks for the many many replies!
I didn't think there will be so many
Now I'm less scared than befor about unlined fretless.
Only 2 more things:
If I get an unlined fretless,and in the future I would like it to be lined...
Is that possible?
And should I get my fingerboard epoxy covered to make sure it won't get destroyed?
If I use Flatwound strings,is that ok enough?
Thanks alot TBers!
I just love this place...
2 Answers:
1) Yes
2) Depends - on the fingerboard wood, strings, how you play, whether or not you think you may want to strip it off and add lines...
On #2: If you use a dense wood like ebony for the fingerboard it will be more resistant to marring from sting wear. You can minimize the amount of damage a fb takes by using a light touch and keeping it set up in a way that doesn't encourage you to apply too much force to stop a note. A finish, like epoxy, can help increase resistance but it also will subtly (or significantly) alter the sound of the fingerboard.
Roundwound strings are a little more aggressive on fingerboards than flats and others. But again, a light touch and good setup can minimize that too.
Should you decide you want to add lines it's no big deal and is done a lot - but you have to know what you are doing or pay someone who does. That said, whoever does the modification will have to remove whatever finish you've applied and a thick, glass-like coat of epoxy will require effort to remove. More effort than... Less effort than... it's all relative - but required.
Do a little searching in the luthier's corner for discussions about fingerboard woods and durability.
Glad to know my Zon is a cheapo. I'll feel better about taking it out in the clubs now.
I've yet to play a bass with epoxy coating,and if Ebony+Flatwound is good enough to maintain the fingerboard in good shape,thats better for me because epoxy is more money lol.
And anyways I HATE the squicky squickers that my Roundwound strings do...
No one is saying that ebony + flatwound is going to do the trick for you. If you play frequently and have a heavy touch you can still mar up even an ebony board and a fingerboard re-do is a lot more expensive than a jar of epoxy.
Don't cost-cut in the wrong places.
Based on everything you've said I'd recommend you go out and play a lot of different fretless basses and get a better feel for what you want and need.
My gut says to advise that you go with an inexpensive lined fretless and play it for a while. Learn how to set it up and play it for a while. Try flats, try rounds, play other instruments - and when you have a more clear understanding of what you want and need out of your bass, go get it.
I'll never understand the "you can't see the lines when you are standing" argument. How the hell do you guys stand when you play? I can see every line quite clearly while standing at a gig. Is it a function of setting your strap down past your crotch, a overhanging stomach (seriously no offense intended by that) or what?
PS: I've epoxied a half-dozen or so fingerboards. Epoxy will give you a brighter tone. It also stands up to roundwound wear better than wood. There was a group of people on here a few months back claiming epoxy is actually softer than wood. I've no clue what epoxy those fellows were using, but the mirror coat epoxy I've worked with is a touch more durable then ebony. It will wear eventually though, everything does. Wear is NOT a big deal. Hit the fingerboard with a radiused sanding block with fine grit sand paper if it is a bare wood fingerboard or buff it out with steel wool if it has epoxy. Make sure you remove the neck first, steel wool "dust" will get attracted to mag pickups and destroy them over time. Your choice of string construction and fingerboard material should be based off tone acquired not paranoia about wear. Wear will eventually occur regardless of what you use if you play enough. You do a little maintenance work and move on. Big whoop.
PS: I've epoxied a half-dozen or so fingerboards. Epoxy will give you a brighter tone. It also stands up to roundwound wear better than wood. There was a group of people on here a few months back claiming epoxy is actually softer than wood. I've no clue what epoxy those fellows were using, but the mirror coat epoxy I've worked with is a touch more durable then ebony. It will wear eventually though, everything does. Wear is NOT a big deal. Hit the fingerboard with a radiused sanding block with fine grit sand paper if it is a bare wood fingerboard or buff it out with steel wool if it has epoxy. Make sure you remove the neck first, steel wool "dust" will get attracted to mag pickups and destroy them over time. Your choice of string construction and fingerboard material should be based off tone acquired not paranoia about wear. Wear will eventually occur regardless of what you use if you play enough. You do a little maintenance work and move on. Big whoop.
Well ... not quite ... it's more like the bass is a bit further away, so looking straight down gives a fine view on the back of the neck, not the FB. That's what i heard from a friend, of course, not that I myself, I mean, ah, just hearsay, you see ...
Glad to know my Zon is a cheapo. I'll feel better about taking it out in the clubs now.
Heh. How old is it? Graphite neck I presume? I could see Zon doing the fretted converted to fretless routine not wishing to make a new mold to move the markers to the right places. I have heard of Zon cutting corners on expensive basses before...
I suppose one can get used to anything, but personally I find it extremely nerve-wracking to play a fretless bass with between the fret positions markers. It's bad enough mentally subdividing the fretlines between the markers without also making the adjustment that this marker is actually BETWEEN two frets as well! Zon can stuff it!
There is no *need* to epoxy a fingerboard. If you're running flatwounds, you'll have to play a lot to cause the fingerboard to need attention. Don't worry about the details - people on TB argue and gnash their teeth about the minutiae when in reality it doesn't make much, if any, difference. Fwiw I have nylon flatwounds on my Rob Allens (ebony boards) and roundwounds on my TF (ebony). I used to run roundwounds on my Zon Lightwave (phenowood) as well. I actually like the extra bit of grit and attack you get with nickel roundwounds but ymmv.
Basses are meant to be played. And when you play them, they'll get some wear. No big deal. I've owned a lot of fretless and never had a hard epoxy board, mostly because I don't like the feel as much. Ebony, pau ferro, rosewood, maple, phenowood, diamondwood - doesn't matter much, just play.
Basses are meant to be played. And when you play them, they'll get some wear. No big deal. I've owned a lot of fretless and never had a hard epoxy board, mostly because I don't like the feel as much. Ebony, pau ferro, rosewood, maple, phenowood, diamondwood - doesn't matter much, just play.
Heh. How old is it? Graphite neck I presume? I could see Zon doing the fretted converted to fretless routine not wishing to make a new mold to move the markers to the right places. I have heard of Zon cutting corners on expensive basses before...
I suppose one can get used to anything, but personally I find it extremely nerve-wracking to play a fretless bass with between the fret positions markers. It's bad enough mentally subdividing the fretlines between the markers without also making the adjustment that this marker is actually BETWEEN two frets as well! Zon can stuff it!
Every Zon fretless I've played or owned (unlined) had the dots on the fret positions.
