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G&L Basses and strings....

I seen a thread a while ago with suggestions for strings for G&L basses. Be damned if I can find it now. (maybe it was in the G&L Forum? I miss that forum:hmm:)

So, what strings work best on the G&L's? What string should one avoid?

Mainly the L2000 for me. I want the best all around tone. But would love to hear about strings for other G&L's too.

(sorry if this has been covered a million times, I searched for the threads and came up empty:hiding:)
 
ernie ball nickel slinkys on my L 2000. although, i may soon change them to sadowsky nickels. i always seem to go back to sadowskys for everything. g&l's have a nice growl no matter what you put on them it seems. rw's, fw's, half woumds, everything.


Strike the above comments. As of Jan 22, 2010 I am back to D'addario Chromes 40, 60, 80, 100 for good! :)
 
I prefer nickel round wound on mine, but I'm not all that brand-particular. Lately I've been using D'Aquisto 45-105 ('cause they're cheap!).

My L2K fretless arrived (used) with some compression wound strings on it, and I usually don't like compression wounds, but they sound pretty good on that bass so I've left them on there.

I tend to stay away from stainless steel and stick with nickel for the warmer tones.
 
Do a search on L2000 or L2500 in the Strings fourm and you should get some results. I was browsing some old threads yesterday.

I have a Trib L-2500.

It came stock with DAddario XL 130-45 super long, nickel. IIRC they all do now. They used to use SIT stock. The DAd's were good. I liked them. I've used them for my other basses. Even tone, last long, not too stiff...

I put DR Sunbeam 125-45 on it, nickel. I REALLY like these! They break in real nice and get a good warm growl and thump. However, I'm not sure I really like these for the Alt Rock\Pop trio I'm in.

So I recently put on DR LoRider 125-45, ss. For the fairly aggressive, rabid growly, bright tone I want for the Alt Rock\Pop trio, they seem to be what I'm looking for! :)

YMMV, many G&L players prefer nickels. I like nickels for the most part but wanted to get more aggressive for this specific band.

PS - I don't know if the L-2000's suffer the same problem, but the L-2500's bridge is only mounted by 2 screws. String through the bridge can cause the bridge to pull out of the body. So it's suggested to string through the body to avoid this. Thus, requiring strings long enough to do so.
 
Yep, D'Addario nickels are stock (specifically gauge 45-65-80-100 on the four bangers). Those work well for me. Also like Chromes in the same gauge. Have those on my old SB-1 now and they give it a great ol' school vibe. Gonna try half-rounds on my Wunkay LE next to tame the highs on that one a bit.

I've tried a bunch of brands over the years but seem to keep coming back to the D'Ads. They sound good to my ears and I can generally find them as cheap or cheaper than much of the competition.
 
Yep, D'Addario nickels are stock (specifically gauge 45-65-80-100 on the four bangers). Those work well for me. Also like Chromes in the same gauge. Have those on my old SB-1 now and they give it a great ol' school vibe. Gonna try half-rounds on my Wunkay LE next to tame the highs on that one a bit.

I've tried a bunch of brands over the years but seem to keep coming back to the D'Ads. They sound good to my ears and I can generally find them as cheap or cheaper than much of the competition.

Factory strings are D'Addario now? I know when they started it was GHS, same strings Leo used on the Music Man instruments. But bottom line is that there's so many variations on what folks want out of any bass, that if you wait long enough eventually just about every mainstream string will get recommended.

John
 
But bottom line is that there's so many variations on what folks want out of any bass, that if you wait long enough eventually just about every mainstream string will get recommended.

John

+1


Plus, different basses (even the same model with similar features) can sound different from each other. So pick a string to suit your particular bass.

I have decided the TI Jazz Round is my favorite string for low tension and long life for most of my basses. But they seem to work particularly well with the L2K as long as bright slapping tones are not your thing.
 
PS - I don't know if the L-2000's suffer the same problem, but the L-2500's bridge is only mounted by 2 screws. String through the bridge can cause the bridge to pull out of the body. So it's suggested to string through the body to avoid this. Thus, requiring strings long enough to do so.

My '02 L-2000 has a five screw bridge and no string through option. Having a quick look on the G&L site it seems that is still the case.
 
+1
Plus, different basses (even the same model with similar features) can sound different from each other. So pick a string to suit your particular bass..

The L-2000 will accentuate (or be limited by) the strings. If you want a lot of highs and grind, use a stainless round, if you want to tame that use flats.

That being said, I always start with TI Jazz Flats (On my L2000E and my El Toro) and find they bring out the true character of the instrument. You can adjust according to what you like later. I also have two L-1000s with Pyramid Gold and Labella FL flats. Obviously, I like flats.
 
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G&L basses are very sensitive to strings. You really want to get strings that match the style of music you're going to play with that particular bass. If you need a string that's versatile I recommend DR Nickel Lo-Riders. They're warm enough for old-school sounds and have enough growl for modern sounds too.
 
After using roto 77 flat for about a week on my L2k I have officialy switched back to an old set of chromes. Been so long since I used them I forgot how great these strings. Flats seem to work really well on anything with MFDs for me because it curbs a little of the agressiveness.