yeah, I was able to move it but it was a bit of pain but hey, if the neck never moves, then I don't have to worry
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yeah, I was able to move it but it was a bit of pain but hey, if the neck never moves, then I don't have to worry
Thanks!! There is merit to the idea that if you dont use a tone control at all, remove it from the circuit. There are effects of loading on the pickups from that extra unused pot that make a difference especially for those looking for max treble response. I cant help but think that's what the SB-2 design was at least partially trying to achieve.
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Cannot make out pot values from that, but appears to be a basic VVT passive harness.
Here's a link to a jazz bass wiring diagram. As far as I know, the SB-2T would be the same except that the "P" pickup halves would be wired together in series (white & green wires if I remember right). That's already done from the factory, so just ignore them and wire it as if it were a jazz bass.
Jazz Bass Style Wiring Diagram
No surprise there. When I was researching flats, I read that Chromes were some of the brightest flats you could get, and GHS Precision Flats were some of the least-bright. IIRC, they both put the same amount of tension on the neck so I didn't have to adjust the truss rod to make the switch, and I found the Precision Flats gave me the "thumpy" I wanted. (But you don't.) YMMV...
Please keep me posted about that mod with the EMG active EQ. I remember reading that when Paul Gagon designed the M2000 bass for G&L, he had to underwind the MFD pickups because they were so hot they overdrove the front end of his preamp, which is very different from the L2000's. That was somewhere on the bassesbyleo.com/forum, but I don't remember exactly where. Heck, I don't remember what I had for breakfast. Wait, have I had breakfast? Anyway, I'd be interested to know if those pickups overdrive that EMG active EQ.
My recollection of that is the same. They underwound the M series by 7 or 11% for the pre in that series.
My instinct is that Ive already clipped it. At least I think I've heard that, but to put that in context, Im wailing on the strings sometimes. I will do some testing and report back. I might even test it at 9 and 18v as I think I have a spare connector I can solder in.
I have several basses where the trussrod isn't easy to move. But as long as I can move it and get the action I want, I don't worry about it.
This isn't to say that I am right. I'm just passing along the way I do it.
I am sure i am not alone in this but my OCD tendencies kick in with things like this so I need to learn, if it ain't broken don't fix it. If the relief and action is good, no need to mess with it.
Paul Gagon:
"The winding difference between the L-Series and M-Series is 600 turns per bobbin. Here's the specs......
L-Series pickup = 5,000 turns per coil of 42ga magnet wire
M-Series pickup = 4,400 turns per coil of 42ga magnet wire
The big difference in the way these pickups sound is in their loading circuits. The L-Series basses have the .001uf loading cap across the pickup and this lowers the resonant frequency of the pickup. The M-Series do not have this loading cap. If you wanted to experiment with the sound of the M basses and try to get closer to the L thing you could simply solder on a .001uf or .0015uf cap across the pickups. I think the easiest place to do this would be on the output of the blend pot."
I read the specs on the pre that you used and it seemed odd, but: if you play hard use 18 volt if not you can run at 9 volt. I would think they would reference a voltage but I guess not.
Is there space for a 2nd battery without removing wood? That would be too good to be true.
They may be trying to recommend 9v vs 18v without making it too technical. I didnt see an input v spec either. So basically most will get away with 9 and 18 is only necessary with the highest of input v levels. Otherwise choose whatever you want.
I think there is room in the cavity for 2 batteries if I put them end to end!
They may be trying to recommend 9v vs 18v without making it too technical. I didnt see an input v spec either. So basically most will get away with 9 and 18 is only necessary with the highest of input v levels. Otherwise choose whatever you want.
I think there is room in the cavity for 2 batteries if I put them end to end!
Super interested in how this turns out. Would you consider having a battery cavity routed in if you like the mod?
Ill report back on it. I like the BT at 9v already so it should be at least as good.
I dont really want to mod the body any more than it has been. I think I can squeeze in a second battery though. Rather than route for a quick change door a la EBMM, Im thinking about adding an on/off pre switch if the batteries die and its not convenient to remove the guard in the moment.
Well, I just got it 5 days ago so I only have a few hours of play time on it. Occasionally Im clipping my headphone amp so thats just a matter of adjusting gain on my interface. More testing needed.
Also a second battery definitely wont fit in the factory route because the square pre board is in the way. You can see that in the cavity pic I posted a few pages back. Something else to note this is that the 90s/00s G&L bodies have like 1/4" extra depth from what is standard for current G&Ls, Fender, and most others. So the cavity is extra deep. This may be the only reason I can get one 9v under the pots in the first place. This may not be possible with current models!
Here are a couple links for battery boxes should you decided to go that route. When I was thinking I'd possibly put one of those preamps into my SB-2 but wanted to run the volumes on a concentric pot, I knew I'd have to use a battery box. I haven't gone that way (yet), but I keep these links in mind. There might be some others on Ebay or even Reverb.
EP-2931-023 18-Volt Battery Compartment
Battery Box - StewMac
I put the Seymour Duncan version of your preamp in my Tribute LB100 and love it there. I made this mod to the pickguard so when I need to change batteries I only have to remove 4 screws instead of a dozen or so. The preamp bypass switch is a great idea, though.
