Anybody here try 40-60-80-100-130 for their 5'ers? I love the D'Addario XL 45-65-80-100-130 that came stock with my Kiloton 5 but I wish the 45 and 65 were 40 and 60.
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Anybody here try 40-60-80-100-130 for their 5'ers? I love the D'Addario XL 45-65-80-100-130 that came stock with my Kiloton 5 but I wish the 45 and 65 were 40 and 60.
Within what's currently available, the usual L-2500s have a neck profile described as "Medium C", but the profile on the CLF Research version is called "Slim C".Im wondering if I were to go out and buy a new stock L 2500 if the neck would be much more slim
I recently purchased a L-2500. It's my first G&L. I don't know the exact year, but the shop I got it from said it was basically NOS, and had been in their posession for nearly 10 years. It is old enough to not have a separate battery compartment in the rear. It is indeed basically mint, with the only wear being some mild tarnishing on some of the tuners.
Anyway, I was wondering if some G&L aficionados can tell me about the neck. It is honestly quite a bit chunkier than I was expecting, borderline thicker than I am comfortable with for a 5 string. I have been trying to research if this is a typical neck profile, or if this one is extra thicc. Some info I came across might seem to suggest they slimmed down lot of their standard neck profiles around 2015? Or I might be misremembering that. Can anyone comment? Im wondering if I were to go out and buy a new stock L 2500 if the neck would be much more slim. Unfortunately I have never had the chance to play another G&L in person before.
man that sounds good
Outside of here, one of the most knowledgeable persons is Ken Baker, who runs the bassesbyleo.com forum.
<br> <br> BassesByLeo <br> Est. 2009 • View forum - G&L Basses
He would be able to find the old G&L neck nomenclature (e.g. #5, #6, #11, etc. that was in use before the current one) and tell from the serial number the year and the neck of your bass.
And remember: here, no pic, no bass! (with please incl. back of the headstock).
man that sounds good
I recently purchased a L-2500. It's my first G&L. I don't know the exact year, but the shop I got it from said it was basically NOS, and had been in their posession for nearly 10 years. It is old enough to not have a separate battery compartment in the rear. It is indeed basically mint, with the only wear being some mild tarnishing on some of the tuners.
Anyway, I was wondering if some G&L aficionados can tell me about the neck. It is honestly quite a bit chunkier than I was expecting, borderline thicker than I am comfortable with for a 5 string. I have been trying to research if this is a typical neck profile, or if this one is extra thicc. Some info I came across might seem to suggest they slimmed down lot of their standard neck profiles around 2015? Or I might be misremembering that. Can anyone comment? Im wondering if I were to go out and buy a new stock L 2500 if the neck would be much more slim. Unfortunately I have never had the chance to play another G&L in person before.
About G&L's Medium and Slim C (4-string) profiles: Anybody know how either of them compares to the profile on a Fender Aerodyne Jazz neck?Within what's currently available, the usual L-2500s have a neck profile described as "Medium C", but the profile on the CLF Research version is called "Slim C".
Man, his sound is so crunchy! Does his amp accentuate that?
Some different tones with the Matador
This Precision lasted just a couple of days, and then it went back to the dealer. Turns out my goodfornothing hand and arm have real problems with 7¼" radius. Lesson learnt.I just bought myself a MIJ Precision to keep my Squier P company, and its a lovely instrument, and no way whatsoever does it make forget how keenly I'm awaiting my SB-1, it really is just filling in until The Day of MFD cometh.
I've had both the steel Swing Bass and the nickel-plated version on my BB, they sound and behave very differently. The nickels have lots of thick mids and nothing of the Swing Bass raw edge. I'll probably start with the Boomers.... unless someone says they just weren't a happy match with the SB-1I've not used the nickel Rotos, but I used to string my old Tribute SB-2 with the stainless Roto Swing 66 set. They were very raw and bright sounding. Combine that with a SB-2, a pick and a GK amp and you had a very aggressive rock tone, which is what I was going for at the time. (Also not the easiest on the fingers.). I imagine the nickels would take that high end edge away a bit.