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G&L Club Part 7

Anybody here try 40-60-80-100-130 for their 5'ers? I love the D'Addario XL 45-65-80-100-130 that came stock with my Kiloton 5 but I wish the 45 and 65 were 40 and 60.

You might enjoy the NYXLs from D'Addario. Similar in character but more refined and softer under the hands. The 45/65 feel lighter to me and might meet your needs.
 
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I recently purchased a L-2500. It's my first G&L. I don't know the exact year, but the shop I got it from said it was basically NOS, and had been in their posession for nearly 10 years. It is old enough to not have a separate battery compartment in the rear. It is indeed basically mint, with the only wear being some mild tarnishing on some of the tuners.

Anyway, I was wondering if some G&L aficionados can tell me about the neck. It is honestly quite a bit chunkier than I was expecting, borderline thicker than I am comfortable with for a 5 string. I have been trying to research if this is a typical neck profile, or if this one is extra thicc. Some info I came across might seem to suggest they slimmed down lot of their standard neck profiles around 2015? Or I might be misremembering that. Can anyone comment? Im wondering if I were to go out and buy a new stock L 2500 if the neck would be much more slim. Unfortunately I have never had the chance to play another G&L in person before.
 
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I recently purchased a L-2500. It's my first G&L. I don't know the exact year, but the shop I got it from said it was basically NOS, and had been in their posession for nearly 10 years. It is old enough to not have a separate battery compartment in the rear. It is indeed basically mint, with the only wear being some mild tarnishing on some of the tuners.

Anyway, I was wondering if some G&L aficionados can tell me about the neck. It is honestly quite a bit chunkier than I was expecting, borderline thicker than I am comfortable with for a 5 string. I have been trying to research if this is a typical neck profile, or if this one is extra thicc. Some info I came across might seem to suggest they slimmed down lot of their standard neck profiles around 2015? Or I might be misremembering that. Can anyone comment? Im wondering if I were to go out and buy a new stock L 2500 if the neck would be much more slim. Unfortunately I have never had the chance to play another G&L in person before.

Outside of here :), one of the most knowledgeable persons is Ken Baker, who runs the bassesbyleo.com forum.
<br> <br> BassesByLeo <br> Est. 2009 • View forum - G&L Basses
He would be able to find the old G&L neck nomenclature (e.g. #5, #6, #11, etc. that was in use before the current one) and tell from the serial number the year and the neck of your bass.
And remember: here, no pic, no bass! (with please incl. back of the headstock).
 
Outside of here :), one of the most knowledgeable persons is Ken Baker, who runs the bassesbyleo.com forum.
<br> <br> BassesByLeo <br> Est. 2009 • View forum - G&L Basses
He would be able to find the old G&L neck nomenclature (e.g. #5, #6, #11, etc. that was in use before the current one) and tell from the serial number the year and the neck of your bass.
And remember: here, no pic, no bass! (with please incl. back of the headstock).

Thanks! Will snap a pic when I get home later tonight. After spending some more time with it yesterday, the neck definitely is growing on me, though it is one if the thickest 5 string necks I have played. The only other thing about the bass is that Im going to need to shim the neck. The action on the D and G strings is a bit too high for my liking even with the saddles bottomed out. Lovely souding bass though.
 
I recently purchased a L-2500. It's my first G&L. I don't know the exact year, but the shop I got it from said it was basically NOS, and had been in their posession for nearly 10 years. It is old enough to not have a separate battery compartment in the rear. It is indeed basically mint, with the only wear being some mild tarnishing on some of the tuners.

Anyway, I was wondering if some G&L aficionados can tell me about the neck. It is honestly quite a bit chunkier than I was expecting, borderline thicker than I am comfortable with for a 5 string. I have been trying to research if this is a typical neck profile, or if this one is extra thicc. Some info I came across might seem to suggest they slimmed down lot of their standard neck profiles around 2015? Or I might be misremembering that. Can anyone comment? Im wondering if I were to go out and buy a new stock L 2500 if the neck would be much more slim. Unfortunately I have never had the chance to play another G&L in person before.

Yes, older L-2500 necks are indeed thicker than the current ones, and I believe the change occurred in the 2010-2013 area. I learned this when I was shopping for a five in early 2014. I went to a G&L dealer in Philly, which had two new USA L-2500s--one a few years old, and another that had just arrived from the factory. The older one had the fatter rear profile, which was borderline for me, just like you said it was for you. I could have worked with it, but it wasn't ideal. The brand new one had a shallower rear profile, and felt fantastic. I would have bought that one, but it had expensive options I didn't want.

I ended up with an M-2500, which I bought elsewhere. It was built in October 2013 and has the shallower rear profile, exactly like that newer L-2500 in the Philly shop. (I later bought a JB-5 from around 2017, which has a different neck but also a fairly slim rear profile that I found very comfortable.)
 
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I had a late 90s L2500 that had a chunkier neck, but my early 2000s fretless has a very thin neck. The difference isn't the frets, although that does add some perceived thickness, but the wood is measurably thinner. I also have a 2018 or so USA L2500 fretted neck sitting in a box (factory 2nd from the G&L store) that feels much more like my fretless than the old fretted. It's pretty thin, and probably similar to the fretless, but with the additional thickness of the frets. Someday I'll get it put on a body and strung up.

I haven't played a newer L2500, but if they're anything like my fretless, it'll be very comfortable.
 
Within what's currently available, the usual L-2500s have a neck profile described as "Medium C", but the profile on the CLF Research version is called "Slim C".
About G&L's Medium and Slim C (4-string) profiles: Anybody know how either of them compares to the profile on a Fender Aerodyne Jazz neck?

My hand likes Aerodyne necks -- they're like a '62 Jazz neck -- but I sold my old L2000e because the neck was too thick (and wide). Any guidance on which C profile I should seek on, say, a G&L JB or SB-2 to attain that feel of neck?

Thanx in advance.
 
Man, his sound is so crunchy! Does his amp accentuate that?

Yeah, that's really nice! I believe he's using the BBE Max tube preamp into a GK power section, then to the GK cabs. I don't know if there's a mic on the cabs, so it's likely just direct out of the BBE. I dig it!

I should know the answer to this (having owned standard L2500s and used an L1000 years ago), but... This tone should be possible to achieve via L2500 in passive mode with just the neck pickup soloed (in series, I'm thinking). I really like the simplicity of the L1000, but I'm mostly a Jazz bass guy when it comes to 5-strings. I'm thinking a 750 series L2500 with K-switching would get me the most tonal options. I've had an L2500 set up with single coils before and it was very good. Not quite the airiness of traditional alnico SC jazz pickups, but more of an aggressive "active jazz" tone.

Hmm. Just thinkin!
 
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I just bought myself a MIJ Precision to keep my Squier P company, and its a lovely instrument, and no way whatsoever does it make forget how keenly I'm awaiting my SB-1, it really is just filling in until The Day of MFD cometh.
This Precision lasted just a couple of days, and then it went back to the dealer. Turns out my goodfornothing hand and arm have real problems with 7¼" radius. Lesson learnt.

I also learnt that DR Nickel Lo-Riders are not for me, which is a shame, because they're what I've been intending for my SB-1, once it exists.

Since I know I like the nickel-plated Rotosounds and GHS Bass Boomers, I'll go for one of those two instead. Anyone with experience of either of those two on an SB-1?
 
I've not used the nickel Rotos, but I used to string my old Tribute SB-2 with the stainless Roto Swing 66 set. They were very raw and bright sounding. Combine that with a SB-2, a pick and a GK amp and you had a very aggressive rock tone, which is what I was going for at the time. (Also not the easiest on the fingers.). I imagine the nickels would take that high end edge away a bit.
 
I've not used the nickel Rotos, but I used to string my old Tribute SB-2 with the stainless Roto Swing 66 set. They were very raw and bright sounding. Combine that with a SB-2, a pick and a GK amp and you had a very aggressive rock tone, which is what I was going for at the time. (Also not the easiest on the fingers.). I imagine the nickels would take that high end edge away a bit.
I've had both the steel Swing Bass and the nickel-plated version on my BB, they sound and behave very differently. The nickels have lots of thick mids and nothing of the Swing Bass raw edge. I'll probably start with the Boomers.... unless someone says they just weren't a happy match with the SB-1
 
Happy El Toro Cinco de Mayo.

The Bull is the cojones of bass so you need two.

Snorts and growls deepest right before turning a Matador into a Matadora.

Everything here is lethal and has earned their scars.

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