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I have a CLF L-2500 that is a beast at 10.2 lbs. but sounds oh so good! If I hold on to it, I'm thinking of ways to shave off a little weight.
Anyone have suggestions for lightweight replacement knobs?
Anyone have suggestions for lightweight replacement knobs?
The stock knobs are aluminum, so you'll have to go plastic to save much weight.
biggest weight reduction "bang for buck" is tuners. if you've already gone down that route, then I suppose knobs are next.
That is one fine-looking bass. Very unique. I wish G&L made a greater variety of MFDs. We've been clamoring for jazz bass pickups for years now, but since the R&D department went away when Leo died and Paul Gagon retired, who knows when we'll see those? I wish they had a regular sized 3.5" soapbar MFD. If they did, I would have dropped one into my NS Design WAV4 when I rebuilt the electronics in it. They didn't offer anything that would fit without routing the pickup cavity, which I didn't want to do. I ended up using a Lace Alumitone (No affiliation.) It's a decent sounding pickup, but it's very smooth and lacks the drive and punch I like to hear in my basses. It never hurts to have a smoother sounding bass in the pack, but man, if that thing had an MFD.....The G&L pickups are so good they create other builds!
Here's my latest:
Many thanks to Greg @RocketMusic (who else?). The 2 custom shop options I wanted were the 57 pickup and the undyed ebony board, and both are home runs. It weighs in at 8.5 and sounds great. And the royal purple metallic paint job looks awesome. Delivery was 13 months almost to the day, which I don't think is too bad at all.
Many thanks to Greg @RocketMusic (who else?). The 2 custom shop options I wanted were the 57 pickup and the undyed ebony board, and both are home runs. It weighs in at 8.5 and sounds great. And the royal purple metallic paint job looks awesome. Delivery was 13 months almost to the day, which I don't think is too bad at all.
If my eyes aren't deceiving me, J neck as well?
I got a buddy who would be all over that one.
I've had my LB-100 for 4 months, and I've now properly bonded with it. As with the SB-1, it took a while.
BIG PLUSSES — From the start, it was clear that, compared to the SB-1, it had been built to a superior standard. The neck can take fairly high tension strings and still give a very low action. Just holding it, you can feel that the wood has been shaped by more masterful hands. Despite being 7.0 lbs, there's no neck dive, and there's zero sense of the bass being flimsy.
SMALL MINUSES — There were two annoying details: dense deposits of polishing compound had been left against the sides of most the frets — not a great look on a maple fretboard — and there was real hum. Both of these are now sorted out. An oddity for such a good instrument is that the spacing of the strings across the nut is uneven — the E string is 0.04" nearer the middle than it should be. Obviously, that didn't take much adjusting to — if anything it's a benefit to me — but it seemed bizarre that it happened.
BIGGER MINUS — One initial disappointment I haven't got used to: the variable nature of G&L's Vintage Tint Gloss gave me a unexpectedly light shade for the neck. It's nice enough in itself, but, since it lacks warmth, it is unequal to the task of pairing with the ruby red metallic body — visually the bass is just a jumble of three nice elements. With hindsight, I would have ordered a plain black body to go with that neck.
Sitting side by side, the Pharaoh Gold and the Ruby Red do compliment each other, twinkling away equally and I suspect that the SB-1 rather enjoys being the looker of the two.
AT FIRST — I had a combination of a Dimarzio Model P and Daddario Pro Steels. It sounded excellent, and played very very easily. However, I found myself always preferring to play the SB-1. And then the project that needed the Dimarzio+steels combo fell through.
NOW — After a period of experimenting with different strings on both basses, I've settled on 45-65-85-105 Chromes for the LB-100 (with the 50-65-85-110 Pro Steels now on the SB-1, where I've learnt that they can do both charm and bite)
The combination of flats with the glossy maple fretboard is unexpectedly comfortable for me, encouraging me to play with proper poise, not just skating around. The stiffness of the strings makes the most of the low action — no sense of hard work here.
Just as with the MFD on the SB-1, the Dimarzio takes on a more relaxed character when the volume is cut a little, giving an option or two. The sound is never remotely vintage, but the pickup and the strings are singing from the same hymn-sheet.
AND SO — Although it was very much not what I intended, I now have a good pairing: Chromes+Dimarzio and Pro Steels+MFD. Two strong yet warm sounds, quite different, but both me — and for the time being that's enough to keep me satisfied. I find myself following the prevailing wisdom that one should have two P-basses, one with flats, one with rounds — but I don't think those who say that quite intend what I've ended up with.....
BIG PLUSSES — From the start, it was clear that, compared to the SB-1, it had been built to a superior standard. The neck can take fairly high tension strings and still give a very low action. Just holding it, you can feel that the wood has been shaped by more masterful hands. Despite being 7.0 lbs, there's no neck dive, and there's zero sense of the bass being flimsy.
SMALL MINUSES — There were two annoying details: dense deposits of polishing compound had been left against the sides of most the frets — not a great look on a maple fretboard — and there was real hum. Both of these are now sorted out. An oddity for such a good instrument is that the spacing of the strings across the nut is uneven — the E string is 0.04" nearer the middle than it should be. Obviously, that didn't take much adjusting to — if anything it's a benefit to me — but it seemed bizarre that it happened.
BIGGER MINUS — One initial disappointment I haven't got used to: the variable nature of G&L's Vintage Tint Gloss gave me a unexpectedly light shade for the neck. It's nice enough in itself, but, since it lacks warmth, it is unequal to the task of pairing with the ruby red metallic body — visually the bass is just a jumble of three nice elements. With hindsight, I would have ordered a plain black body to go with that neck.
Sitting side by side, the Pharaoh Gold and the Ruby Red do compliment each other, twinkling away equally and I suspect that the SB-1 rather enjoys being the looker of the two.
AT FIRST — I had a combination of a Dimarzio Model P and Daddario Pro Steels. It sounded excellent, and played very very easily. However, I found myself always preferring to play the SB-1. And then the project that needed the Dimarzio+steels combo fell through.
NOW — After a period of experimenting with different strings on both basses, I've settled on 45-65-85-105 Chromes for the LB-100 (with the 50-65-85-110 Pro Steels now on the SB-1, where I've learnt that they can do both charm and bite)
The combination of flats with the glossy maple fretboard is unexpectedly comfortable for me, encouraging me to play with proper poise, not just skating around. The stiffness of the strings makes the most of the low action — no sense of hard work here.
Just as with the MFD on the SB-1, the Dimarzio takes on a more relaxed character when the volume is cut a little, giving an option or two. The sound is never remotely vintage, but the pickup and the strings are singing from the same hymn-sheet.
AND SO — Although it was very much not what I intended, I now have a good pairing: Chromes+Dimarzio and Pro Steels+MFD. Two strong yet warm sounds, quite different, but both me — and for the time being that's enough to keep me satisfied. I find myself following the prevailing wisdom that one should have two P-basses, one with flats, one with rounds — but I don't think those who say that quite intend what I've ended up with.....
I was always afraid to put ProSteels on a MFD. Afraid of setting off the San Andreas. Glad you found your happy place!
New (to me) SB-1 3TSB FD owner here. Other than some rough fret ends that need dressed, I am in love so far.
Question: This is my first USA G&L. I really like the neck. The specs for for the SB-1 FD say the neck is "G&L 1 5/8" Medium C with 9 1/2" radius". Is that consistent across 4 string models? If I get an L-2000 or LB-100 with the same neck specs, will the neck indeed be the same?
Obligatory pic (my bass, but not my pic):
Question: This is my first USA G&L. I really like the neck. The specs for for the SB-1 FD say the neck is "G&L 1 5/8" Medium C with 9 1/2" radius". Is that consistent across 4 string models? If I get an L-2000 or LB-100 with the same neck specs, will the neck indeed be the same?
Obligatory pic (my bass, but not my pic):
yes, neck will be the same. if 1.625 modern C. that's the typical neck for L series (unless it was a build-to-order or one-off). YMMV
Two things: my pickup height is set for warmth not aggression — I raised the pickup only until there was a satisfying amount of tone, and then raised the pole pieces by differing amounts, just enough to get some more definition where needed — and I do play with a very light touch.
Having said that, I did once string the SB with 50-70-85-110 Swing Bass, and that did tip the balance, just this dark implacable tone, like a cliff face with a grievance.
So, yeah, knowing that, I was surprised to find the Pro Steels capable of doing charm as well.
Yes indeed! This is my second fretless LB-100 with a J neck, and both are killer. I'm thinking of putting the other one up for sale, but haven't decided for sure yet.
@Joshua
Wow! Killer!
Congrats and enjoy!
Many thanks!
Of course you haven't. After waiting 13 months and now realizing how great your old one is rest assured we won't judge you for flipping this purply one. We understand, Josh; even empathize with your struggle. Just have a few scotches; man up and post it in the classifieds (for 70 cents on the dollar). I'm sure someone here will step up to the stage and make an offer although I have no idea whom that might be.
Congratulations she sure looks sweet.
My L-2000 and M-2000 have the exact same neck specs as my SB-1, "G&L 1 5/8" Medium C with 9 1/2" radius" same nut width but are thinner front to back. My SB-1 is a bit thicker front to back and makes it a bit harder for me to play because of it.
A CLF L-1000 has a "Thin C" neck so will certainly be a bit thinner front to back, with the same nut width. I personally like the thinner necks, I think you will also. Same nut width but a bit slimmer front to back, for me it makes for easier fingerings. Not sure about the LB-100s. Good luck, nice SB-1 !!
Of course you haven't. After waiting 13 months and now realizing how great your old one is rest assured we won't judge you for flipping this purply one. We understand, Josh; even empathize with your struggle. Just have a few scotches; man up and post it in the classifieds (for 70 cents on the dollar). I'm sure someone here will step up to the stage and make an offer although I have no idea whom that might be.
Congratulations she sure looks sweet.
Ha!
Coincidentally, I just bought a bottle of Lagavulin 16!
