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G&L Club Part 7

Bummer !! The stock XL170s have like 166lbs, but the neck should have no problems.

The bass was shipped across the ocean a year ago with a set of 45-105 Bass Boomers, which are 186 lbs. I didn't like the sound but had no complaints about how it was playing.

I changed them for 50-110 Roto Bass, which are 197 lbs. Still no problems with the playability.

About 4 months ago I changed to 50-65-85-110 Pro Steels, which are 180 lbs. Getting higher is the last thing action should have been doing.....
 
The bass was shipped across the ocean a year ago with a set of 45-105 Bass Boomers, which are 186 lbs. I didn't like the sound but had no complaints about how it was playing.

I changed them for 50-110 Roto Bass, which are 197 lbs. Still no problems with the playability.

About 4 months ago I changed to 50-65-85-110 Pro Steels, which are 180 lbs. Getting higher is the last thing action should have been doing.....

How's your weather? Summer here is generally the max humidity for the year, and bass necks will take on moisture and swell. That's when we typically need to take some tension off the truss rod. As fall kicks in and we turn on our heating systems, necks tend to shrink and then you'll generally need to put some tension on the truss rod like you're trying to do.

We're not there yet here in western Virginia, but maybe your weather in the UK is a bit ahead of us?

I'm just grasping at straws. I hate to think that the neck needs to be replaced... but if it does, it's not an awful process. International shipping would be the biggest suck, but you can take the neck off and just ship the old neck back and the new neck forth to save $$ there. I don't think G&L would be willing to ship internationally, but I could join in the fun to help make that happen.
 
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How's your weather? Summer here is generally the max humidity for the year, and bass necks will take on moisture and swell. That's when we typically need to take some tension off the truss rod. As fall kicks in and we turn on our heating systems, necks tend to shrink and then you'll generally need to put some tension on the truss rod like you're trying to do.

We're not there yet here in western Virginia, but maybe your weather in the UK is a bit ahead of us?

I'm just grasping at straws. I hate to think that the neck needs to be replaced... but if it does, it's not an awful process. International shipping would be the biggest suck, but you can take the neck off and just ship the old neck back and the new neck forth to save $$ there. I don't think G&L would be willing to ship internationally, but I could join in the fun to help make that happen.

Or there's these:

GHS Bass Boomers XL3045, 4-String 30-90
xl3045_1.jpg



OK. That one was just a joke. :)
 
I'm reluctant to post this advice, I don't want anyone to damage their bass, but...

Imagine your bass laying on a workbench face up. Find something firm but also soft (i.e. no give, but also won't dent your neck finish) to put under the neck about halfway between the headstock and the body. Or another way to do it is to lay the bass such that the headstock is in the air to the side of the bench, and then clamp the body to the bench (with a padded clamp, don't hurt the finish). If you're trying to put more tension on the truss rod to lay the headstock back, then you can gently but firmly push down on the headstock as you simultaneously attempt to tighten the truss rod. You probably need somebody to hold the body down to the bench if you didn't clamp it. You're basically helping the neck move in the direction that you want the truss rod to take it. That reduces the friction/resistance that the truss rod sees and might let you take it a little bit farther than you otherwise could.

Just please don't be a gorilla when you do this. You need to be firm, but don't go all Schwarzenegger on it.

Also - the newer G&L truss rods can be confusing. If you get nowhere in one direction, maybe try the opposite direction and see if that helps? In fact, maybe start with this before trying the above.
Great idea for when you are trying to tighten the truss rod. When loosening it, you could just leave the strings installed at full tension and let them apply the pressure in the desired direction, no?
 
Played my Fallout w flats at band practice (playing some funk and blues). Man, it killed! Quick question, anyone know a good bag for it? The headstock is against the neck rests on my Monos but my guitarists Mono bag was a little too short.
I sort of remember Jazzmaster case was a good fit. Don't quote me on this :D
 
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Played my Fallout w flats at band practice (playing some funk and blues). Man, it killed! Quick question, anyone know a good bag for it? The headstock is against the neck rests on my Monos but my guitarists Mono bag was a little too short.
Roll a towel for the butt of the body to rest on
 
I'm waiting' on a used, recent L1K CLF I bought on Reverb.....shop says it weighs <8lbs. It could certainly have an alder
body, but I'm wondering if they made any in Empress or Okume?? If I send G & L the serial # would they know for sure?
 
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Well, GAS got the better part of me and I just bought this new G&L USA Custom Fallout Bass.

I made an offer for 25% less than asking and they accepted it!

Anyway, I am pretty stoked to be getting this.


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I recognize those photos! It is always great to see somebody supporting a West Virginia business. They are great to work with and G&L quality speaks for itself.

I have a pedalboard and a Thumb bass that came from the same shop.
 
I recognize those photos! It is always great to see somebody supporting a West Virginia business. They are great to work with and G&L quality speaks for itself.

I have a pedalboard and a Thumb bass that came from the same shop.

LOL, yeah I kept migrating back to this bass. From what I read it's suppose to be (or close to it) a short scale L1000.
 
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I'm waiting' on a used, recent L1K CLF I bought on Reverb.....shop says it weighs <8lbs. It could certainly have an alder
body, but I'm wondering if they made any in Empress or Okume?? If I send G & L the serial # would they know for sure?

  • BODY WOOD: Lightweight Basswood for Matcha Green, Swamp Ash for Natural and Blueburst, Okoume for Old School Tobacco Sunburst
CLF Research L•1000
 
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LOL, yeah I kept migrating back to this bass. From what I read it's suppose to be (or close to it) a short scale L1000.

Pretty much exactly a short scale L-1000. I have both. The Fallout only has one tone knob whereas the L-1000 has volume/treble/bass. Other than that and the scale, they are extremely similar. They both are fantastic instruments.
 
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