• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

G&L Club Part 7

So that MFD on your Kiloton is that powerful even without the preamp that's on the L series basses? Wow. I was wondering about that, I'm considering a Tribute fretless Kiloton. You've given me more to consider. Thanks!

I know the post was not directed at me but... Kiloton output is basically the same as an L series bass in passive mode. This is still considerably more than the alnico pickup in the LB100.

Definitely buy a Fretless Kiloton. I picked up a US Kilo 5 Fretless last year. Kiloton setup works really well with fretless. In general MM-style basses are my favorite fretless setups. This setup plus the output/voicing of the MFD pickup is exactly what I was after on a fretless.
 
I know the post was not directed at me but... Kiloton output is basically the same as an L series bass in passive mode. This is still considerably more than the alnico pickup in the LB100.

Definitely buy a Fretless Kiloton. I picked up a US Kilo 5 Fretless last year. Kiloton setup works really well with fretless. In general MM-style basses are my favorite fretless setups. This setup plus the output/voicing of the MFD pickup is exactly what I was after on a fretless.
Thanks a bunch, this is exactly the sort of input I'm after.
 
So that MFD on your Kiloton is that powerful even without the preamp that's on the L series basses? Wow. I was wondering about that, I'm considering a Tribute fretless Kiloton. You've given me more to consider. Thanks!

I didn't even have it in series mode, which has even more output. It is a HOT bass for sure. But I love it
 
Cool. What strings did it come with? D'Addario XL Chrome Flats?
Though I'm mostly a roundwound player, I always preferred flats on the only fretless I ever owned, which was a Jazz Bass with EMG active pickups. Though the flatwounds I usually prefer on fretted basses are Ernie ball Cobalt flats, I always preferred LaBella Deep Talkin' flats on that fretless jazz. I just never liked the finger noise on a fretless with roundwounds. However, you're going to get a million opinions anytime you ask about strings. I recommend trying it with the strings it comes with for a while, make some judgements based on how you feel about those and the sound you want, and begin experimenting from there, using your own experience and the opinions here on TB as guidelines.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ahbass2500
Though I'm mostly a roundwound player, I always preferred flats on the only fretless I ever owned, which was a Jazz Bass with EMG active pickups. Though the flatwounds I usually prefer on fretted basses are Ernie ball Cobalt flats, I always preferred LaBella Deep Talkin' flats on that fretless jazz. I just never liked the finger noise on a fretless with roundwounds. However, you're going to get a million opinions anytime you ask about strings. I recommend trying it with the strings it comes with for a while, make some judgements based on how you feel about those and the sound you want, and begin experimenting from there, using your own experience and the opinions here on TB as guidelines.

I also prefer flats on a fretless. I go for TI Jazz Flats though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jglunt
So that MFD on your Kiloton is that powerful even without the preamp that's on the L series basses? Wow. I was wondering about that, I'm considering a Tribute fretless Kiloton. You've given me more to consider. Thanks!
I have a Kiloton and an L2500. The Kiloton has plenty of output, and I haven't noticed a big dropoff when switching it out of series into either single coil or parallel. I prefer to play my L2500 with the preamp switched on, but if I switch it into passive, there's not much of a dropoff in output at all.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Murch
I also prefer flats on a fretless. I go for TI Jazz Flats though.
I have TI Jazz Flats on the highly modified NS Design WAV4 pictured as my avatar. I like them a lot, and would almost certainly try them on a fretless if I have one in the future. My fretless Jazz Bass was a 5-string, and I'm not sure if TI makes those in a 5-string set. Moot point, though, as I recently sold that bass. But you're right, they're great strings. Expensive, but you get your money's worth.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AGH
Though I'm mostly a roundwound player, I always preferred flats on the only fretless I ever owned, which was a Jazz Bass with EMG active pickups. Though the flatwounds I usually prefer on fretted basses are Ernie ball Cobalt flats, I always preferred LaBella Deep Talkin' flats on that fretless jazz. I just never liked the finger noise on a fretless with roundwounds. However, you're going to get a million opinions anytime you ask about strings. I recommend trying it with the strings it comes with for a while, make some judgements based on how you feel about those and the sound you want, and begin experimenting from there, using your own experience and the opinions here on TB as guidelines.
Thanks for the input. I have a Fender Player Series fretless Jazz right now, with Fender 9050 flats on it. I like flats on it, I tried Ernie Ball flats for awhile, but they were just a little 'meh' to my ear. I became a fan of D'Addario strings when my L2K and JB both came with them. I've since gone to their NYXL 45105s. I'm sort of researching all the comments here about good flats for MFDs. I've been a roundwound guy for 40 years, so I basically know diddly about flats.
 
Definitely buy a Fretless Kiloton. I picked up a US Kilo 5 Fretless last year. Kiloton setup works really well with fretless. In general MM-style basses are my favorite fretless setups. This setup plus the output/voicing of the MFD pickup is exactly what I was after on a fretless.

I also think a Kiloton would make a great fretless. I used to have an L-1500, which has the same pickup in the same location, and I always thought it would have been excellent as a fretless. I have no need for a fretless, but a Kiloton fretless five would be really cool.
 
I also think a Kiloton would make a great fretless.
My Kiloton 5 fretless is the only bass I own that I have never considered moving along, and I sold my Custom Shop L-2500! It's a really nice fretless.

My only dilemma now is whether I get a Kiloton or L-2000 for my primary fretted bass. I loved that L-2500 sound, but I am a huge fan of the Kiloton body shape and pickguard. Custom shop in Canada came out way too high, so I'm not able to get the specifics I want, unless a used one comes along. Definitely want a maple neck with blocks.
 
I don't think that's the reason. Over the years G&L has flip-flopped on bursting the backs, even on bodies with figured maple tops. I've had several, usually whatever the edge color of the burst was, that trans paint was sprayed over the back, entirely. IOW, a Cherryburst body eg would be simply trans-red on the back...Blueburst, trans-blue, etc.

Sometimes on the darker bursts (Blueburst, Tobacco burst) the back would appear to be black but was actually a couple/few coats of the dark transparent edge paint. Hold it up to a bright light...there's the wood grain showing thru. Not saying yours isn't actually painted black on the back, just sayin' G&L has been all over the map with the bursts, historically.
I have been having panic attacks over this issue. I just bought a used US L2500. The neck is US... it's quartersawn, but the sunburst body has a black back! Does that mean the body is from a Tribute? Please help!
 
I have been having panic attacks over this issue. I just bought a used US L2500. The neck is US... it's quartersawn, but the sunburst body has a black back! Does that mean the body is from a Tribute? Please help!

Not necessarily. Black hides a multitude of sins (even on USA G&L's). Like if it's a 2-piece or 3-piece body with joints that looks fine from the front but not so hot from the back, then they might spray the back black. Or if they tried bursting the back but sprayed the edge too thick... screw it, paint the whole back black.

You might take a look at the preamp once you have the bass to see if you can determine whether it's tribute or USA. This thread may help.
 
I don't think that's the reason. Over the years G&L has flip-flopped on bursting the backs, even on bodies with figured maple tops. I've had several, usually whatever the edge color of the burst was, that trans paint was sprayed over the back, entirely. IOW, a Cherryburst body eg would be simply trans-red on the back...Blueburst, trans-blue, etc.

Sometimes on the darker bursts (Blueburst, Tobacco burst) the back would appear to be black but was actually a couple/few coats of the dark transparent edge paint. Hold it up to a bright light...there's the wood grain showing thru. Not saying yours isn't actually painted black on the back, just sayin' G&L has been all over the map with the bursts, historically.
Not necessarily. Black hides a multitude of sins (even on USA G&L's). Like if it's a 2-piece or 3-piece body with joints that looks fine from the front but not so hot from the back, then they might spray the back black. Or if they tried bursting the back but sprayed the edge too thick... screw it, paint the whole back black.

You might take a look at the preamp once you have the bass to see if you can determine whether it's tribute or USA. This thread may help.
Thank you so much!
 
  • Like
Reactions: RocketMusic
Not necessarily. Black hides a multitude of sins (even on USA G&L's). Like if it's a 2-piece or 3-piece body with joints that looks fine from the front but not so hot from the back, then they might spray the back black. Or if they tried bursting the back but sprayed the edge too thick... screw it, paint the whole back black.

You might take a look at the preamp once you have the bass to see if you can determine whether it's tribute or USA. This thread may help.
I checked and mine does have the US preamp! Now a big sigh of relief.
 
I have a CLF Research L2500 750. I have a Tribute L2000. I'm thinking I might liquidate the Tribute and a nice Ibanez EHB1506MS to purchase a CLF Research L2000. Am I stupid? I'm not playing the Ibanez because I just can't do 6-strings, try as I might. I'm playing the L2000, but not a lot.

John
I would never tell someone not to get an L-2000, but have you considered a different G&L, like a L-1000 or Kiloton?
 
I have a CLF Research L2500 750. I have a Tribute L2000. I'm thinking I might liquidate the Tribute and a nice Ibanez EHB1506MS to purchase a CLF Research L2000. Am I stupid? I'm not playing the Ibanez because I just can't do 6-strings, try as I might. I'm playing the L2000, but not a lot.

John

How do you find the neck on the Tribute? The CLF Research will likely feel a bit different, but if it were me and I had the money, I'd probably do what you're thinking about.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Scarysharkface