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G&L Club Part 7

The tuners will only reduce overall weight by a few ounces.
It's not a lot of weight overall (my several Hipshot for steel swaps have saved 7 oz on average), and I don't know the specific weight savings of a G&L ultralight swap. But because it's located on the headstock, that weight savings can make a substantial difference for balance issues on a strap. For some players that matters a lot, for others not so much.
 
Does anyone know when g&l started using ultralight tuners? My L2K and SB1 are significantly heavier than my newer L1K. Wonder how noticeable it would be with updated tuners
I recently replaced the Chinese tuners on a Squier Jazz Bass I have with a set of the G&L Ultralites. After I pulled the old tuners off, I weighed them as a set on my food scale and compared that to a set of the G&L Ultralites. The difference was around 2 ozs. The Ultralites are more about balance than overall weight.
 
Does anyone know when g&l started using ultralight tuners? My L2K and SB1 are significantly heavier than my newer L1K. Wonder how noticeable it would be with updated tuners


My '87 SB1 has heavier steel tuners. My '94 LB100 has ultralights. Objectively less weight on the '94 tuners (I've compared them, but don't recall the actual numbers on a per-tuner basis). Overall, the LB100 is a lighter bass (very light, actually), but I wouldn't say it all comes down to the tuners.

Anyway, sometime between '87 and '94 is when they changed, I would say.
 
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My '87 SB1 has heavier steel tuners. My '94 LB100 has ultralights. Objectively less weight on the '94 tuners (I've compared them, but don't recall the actual numbers on a per-tuner basis). Overall, the LB100 is a lighter bass (very light, actually), but I wouldn't say it all comes down to the tuners.

Anyway, sometime between '87 and '94 is when they changed, I would say.

On mine the total weight savings was just over 3oz. While that doesn't seem like a lot, taking weight off the end of the neck when one has back or shoulder issues does make a difference.
 
On mine the total weight savings was just over 3oz. While that doesn't seem like a lot, taking weight off the end of the neck when one has back or shoulder issues does make a difference.
Exactly. Changing just a few ounces at the end of the neck leads to a better balanced bass. A better balanced bass feels lighter. So just a few ounces at the end of the neck can make it feel like the bass has lost a pound.
 
Does anyone know when g&l started using ultralight tuners? My L2K and SB1 are significantly heavier than my newer L1K. Wonder how noticeable it would be with updated tuners

Good question. If I had to guess I'd go with 1983. '83 was a transition year that saw a few feature changes. All of the '80 thru '82's I've come across had the gen1 Schaller-badged, straight-post, heavier tuners. The '83 L-1000 below has G&L-badged, tapered alloy posts, and non-magnetic paddles. Same alloy tuners on an '85 Lynx. But that's just my anectdotal experience, could be there were post-'82 examples still wearing leftover gen1 Schallers. Was Leo Fender the type to not use up existing parts stock?

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Took my new L-2500 in to get the sitar noise sorted out. The tech found that 10 or so of the frets were loose and had lifted out a bit, and needed to be glued in as they wouldn't stay seated otherwise. The frets were also levelled with the frets loose so needed a new fret level. Hoping after this everything is sorted out! Love the bass otherwise, but I'm a bit disappointed since these issues seem like something that should have been caught at the factory.
 
PS and so good to be back with the combination of the split MFD with Rotosound's 'Roto Bass' nickel-plated steel rounds - a firm rounded tone with plenty of backbone and masses of warmth. They're cheaper than Swing Bass, as they don't have silks, and last about 50% longer (which isn't saying much, I know)

In the US their standard price appears to be $20 eg Invalid Link Removed

On some basses they can seem a bit mid heavy and enclosed, but since MFDs give you masses of everything, it's all good, the top still has air.

I've got the RB50 50-110, but I've been equally happy with the RB45 45-105 set
 
If I thought that supplying the 50-110 Rotosound nickel rounds to the factory would cause them to check that they had produced a neck that could perform to requirements..... :rollno:

The truss rod is at its maximum and the action is .... not low. I'll put some slightly lower tension (180 vs 197 lbs) Pro Steels on it and see if that makes the slightest difference.

I'm feeling kinda numb.

The LB-100 sat next to it has got identical tension strings, a proper action, and a truss that isn't pushed against the wall of its capacity. So I know what things are supposed to be like.

I downtuned it to BEAD, left it for a while, and it was still playable. And the truss rod still happily moved in one direction and not at all in the other.

Nice to have a pickguard that fits, I guess.
 
Nice to have a pickguard that fits, I guess.
Having said that, just noticed that the pickup is no longer corrected centred under the strings. What a joke company.

With one single string on the neck, the action was nice and low, with just a rumour of fret buzz on one or two frets. Truss rod still affirmed at there was nowhere else to go in that direction. With the Pro Steels now on, am lowering the saddles as far as I can get away with.
 
Having said that, just noticed that the pickup is no longer corrected centred under the strings. What a joke company.

With one single string on the neck, the action was nice and low, with just a rumour of fret buzz on one or two frets. Truss rod still affirmed at there was nowhere else to go in that direction. With the Pro Steels now on, am lowering the saddles as far as I can get away with.
GoOd ViBeS OnLy
 
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