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G&L Club Part 7

A question for the wiring people in the group. I have a bass that I assembled with a single G&L MFD pickup in it and is wired the same as the G&L Fallout bass - with the three way switch for parallel/split/OMG modes. The folks at G&L were kind enough to send the Fallout wiring diagram which I followed exactly. I find I don't really hear much difference between the parallel and split modes. I'd like to convert either one to a mute mode so I can play a little of the next song without telegraphing to the audience. Is this something that's doable?
 
A question for the wiring people in the group. I have a bass that I assembled with a single G&L MFD pickup in it and is wired the same as the G&L Fallout bass - with the three way switch for parallel/split/OMG modes. The folks at G&L were kind enough to send the Fallout wiring diagram which I followed exactly. I find I don't really hear much difference between the parallel and split modes. I'd like to convert either one to a mute mode so I can play a little of the next song without telegraphing to the audience. Is this something that's doable?
I'm sure It'd be doable. I think all you'd have to do is wire one position of the switch to short everything to ground. As to what it would take to do that, I'm not enough of a hand at wiring to say. If it were me, I'd simply wire in a second switch that would either dump all signal to ground or just cut the signal off completely.
 
Loving this bass!
IMG_0399.jpeg
 
Trick of the light/angle. The Kilo is the standard 1.5" and the SB-1 is 1.575". Double-checked with the calipers too.
The board on the Kiloton is ebony and it's lovely. I love these basses, especially the body size/shape.

Also a trick of wishful thinking on my part.:) Love that color combo and beeyootiful ebony fretboard, but I like a bit more beef in my necks. I had a US Kiloton with the 1.5 nut and 9.5 radius neck.(I can never remember GL's letter designations for their necks). I loved the overall feel of it, especially the smaller body and the sound of it in a live band mix, but I wanted a neck like my L1k 's, which is a 1.75" and 12" radius. I sold the Kiloton, Hoping one day to get another one.
My JB2 has the 7.5" radius,with 1.5 nut, and I find it uncomfortable for my left hand, but I love the sound of it and the smaller than standard J bass body.
IMG_2097.jpeg
 
True that. This discussion about a tone control on an SB-2 has been ongoing for years. I don't need one. I like not having one. But I respect the choice another player might make regarding that. I have to say, though, that if I decided to get a BTO SB-2 and they charged me extra to leave it off, G&L and I would have words.
Y
True that. This discussion about a tone control on an SB-2 has been ongoing for years. I don't need one. I like not having one. But I respect the choice another player might make regarding that. I have to say, though, that if I decided to get a BTO SB-2 and they charged me extra to leave it off, G&L and I would have words.
Yeah, charging more for less makes no sense. Also, I respect your preference for no tone control. Horses for courses. :)
 
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Also a trick of wishful thinking on my part.:) Love that color combo and beeyootiful ebony fretboard, but I like a bit more beef in my necks. I had a US Kiloton with the 1.5 nut and 9.5 radius neck.(I can never remember GL's letter designations for their necks). I loved the overall feel of it, especially the smaller body and the sound of it in a live band mix, but I wanted a neck like my L1k 's, which is a 1.75" and 12" radius. I sold the Kiloton, Hoping one day to get another one.
My JB2 has the 7.5" radius,with 1.5 nut, and I find it uncomfortable for my left hand, but I love the sound of it and the smaller than standard J bass body.
View attachment 5447869
What pickup is in your L1K?

I'm a fan of thinner necks so yes, the Kiloton just feels right to me. I don't mind the SB-1 slighter fatter neck width. They both work. I find old P basses a chore to play.

I'd love to see more basses using the K'ton/SB body. Maybe a Megaton?
 
All MFDs are Fullerton MFDs.
MFDs are reasonably priced brand new from the G&L store. Just as a reference, the 5-string versions are around $110 each. One thing to make sure of is if the ones you're looking at are L-series MFDs or M-series MFDs. The M-series MFDs are something like 20% underwound and have black post screws instead of the typical silver of the L-series MFDs. Both the L- and the M-series sell for the same at the G&L store, and as @dedpool1052 pointed out, they're all made in Fullerton.
 
What pickup is in your L1K?

I'm a fan of thinner necks so yes, the Kiloton just feels right to me. I don't mind the SB-1 slighter fatter neck width. They both work. I find old P basses a chore to play.

I'd love to see more basses using the K'ton/SB body. Maybe a Megaton?
My L1k came factory equipped with an alnico humbucker.
It's not as powerful as an mfd, but it has a great warm sound. I've played Rick basses for so many years I'm used to the wider necks and flatter radius.
 
MFDs are reasonably priced brand new from the G&L store. Just as a reference, the 5-string versions are around $110 each. One thing to make sure of is if the ones you're looking at are L-series MFDs or M-series MFDs. The M-series MFDs are something like 20% underwound and have black post screws instead of the typical silver of the L-series MFDs. Both the L- and the M-series sell for the same at the G&L store, and as @dedpool1052 pointed out, they're all made in Fullerton.
Thank you, straightforward reply. They are L-series and the price for a pair is €60 (= US$65). It's a bargain as well as a gamble (the seller is not sure if they are in working condition), and I have no use for them right now…
Anyway, at my band weekly practice last night, I got a really wonderful bass tone with this combination:
IMG_3967.jpeg
 
Okay...just a matter of curiosity regarding neck attachment schemes. I don't have any U.S. model G&Ls, but I have an LB100, JB-2, SB-3, L2000 and a Kiloton, all Tributes. I noticed that my SB-2 has the four-screw attachment with plate, while the U.S. version has the six-screw attachment. Same with my Kiloton. The Tribute has the four-screw with plate, while the U.S. version has the six-screw attachment. Yet, my Tribute LB100, L2000 and JB-2 all have the six-screw attachment. I have a hard time understanding why the Tribute SB-2 and Kiloton don't share the six-screw setup as do the U.S. versions. Perhaps I would get it if all of the Tribute basses utilized the fours-screw with plate mounting, but they don't. It seems to me that there would be a consistency should all of the Tributes use the same attachment measures as do their U.S. brethren.
I realize that there is nothing inherently "wrong" or deficient in the four screw and plate system...Fender, Peavey and a host of others all use it...and for a while, G&Ls used a three-screw system, if I recall correctly. Just that to my little brain, it seems as though it would have been easier have them all the same--U.S. and Tribute.
If there is a reason and someone knows it...please enlighten me.:)

Kim
 
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There is a shared body shape that corresponds to the 4 versus 6 bolt attachment for the Tributes. Kiloton and SB2 both use the slimmer body. Seems like the SB2 and Kiloton were also added to the Tribute line later on (Kiloton definitely was as it did not exist as a US Model when Tributes launched).

Seems likely that 6 bolt models were part of initial development and they continued using that template. 4 bolt models were added later. No idea why they chose 4 bolts, but the slimmer body shape means they required a new template.
 
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Okay...just a matter of curiosity regarding neck attachment schemes. I don't have any U.S. model G&Ls, but I have an LB100, JB-2, SB-3, L2000 and a Kiloton, all Tributes. I noticed that my SB-2 has the four-screw attachment with plate, while the U.S. version has the six-screw attachment. Same with my Kiloton. The Tribute has the four-screw with plate, while the U.S. version has the six-screw attachment. Yet, my Tribute LB100, L2000 and JB-2 all have the six-screw attachment. I have a hard time understanding why the Tribute SB-2 and Kiloton don't share the six-screw setup as do the U.S. versions. Perhaps I would get it if all of the Tribute basses utilized the fours-screw with plate mounting, but they don't. It seems to me that there would be a consistency should all of the Tributes use the same attachment measures as do their U.S. brethren.
I realize that there is nothing inherently "wrong" or deficient in the four screw and plate system...Fender, Peavey and a host of others all use it...and for a while, G&Ls used a three-screw system, if I recall correctly. Just that to my little brain, it seems as though it would have been easier have them all the same--U.S. and Tribute.
If there is a reason and someone knows it...please enlighten me.:)
Kim

My Made in Fullerton JB-5... 4 screws and a 20-fret fingerboard (!).
upload_2024-5-15_16-33-3.jpeg


My 1989 ASAT Bass Signature fretless, my 1999 SB-2 and my 2004 ASAT Bass semi-hollow were all with a three bolt plate and the micro-tilt attachment.
 
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Okay...just a matter of curiosity regarding neck attachment schemes. I don't have any U.S. model G&Ls, but I have an LB100, JB-2, SB-3, L2000 and a Kiloton, all Tributes. I noticed that my SB-2 has the four-screw attachment with plate, while the U.S. version has the six-screw attachment. Same with my Kiloton. The Tribute has the four-screw with plate, while the U.S. version has the six-screw attachment. Yet, my Tribute LB100, L2000 and JB-2 all have the six-screw attachment. I have a hard time understanding why the Tribute SB-2 and Kiloton don't share the six-screw setup as do the U.S. versions. Perhaps I would get it if all of the Tribute basses utilized the fours-screw with plate mounting, but they don't. It seems to me that there would be a consistency should all of the Tributes use the same attachment measures as do their U.S. brethren.
I realize that there is nothing inherently "wrong" or deficient in the four screw and plate system...Fender, Peavey and a host of others all use it...and for a while, G&Ls used a three-screw system, if I recall correctly. Just that to my little brain, it seems as though it would have been easier have them all the same--U.S. and Tribute.
If there is a reason and someone knows it...please enlighten me.:)

Kim
I've never heard of any actual reason other than G&L logic.
 
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The US SB-2 retained the 3-bolt long after the other models switched to 6. So when the Tribute line first appeared, the US SB-2 was still using the 3-bolt. Tributes never used the 3-bolt, but went straight to 4-bolt, with the commonality that the 3- and 4-bolts (pre-JB) both used neck plates, where the 6-bolt doesn't. So my assumption is that it was spec'd as 4-bolt because they didn't have the 6-bolt pattern developed for the SB-2 yet and the 4-bolt plate is just a generic standard mass produced part. Path of least resistance. Then, as @ahadl2500 said, the Kilo just adopted the SB-2 body template with the 4-bolt plate.

That's my unsubstantiated theory, at least. :D
 
This 4-bolt / 6-bolt system has led to at least one screw up over the last six years that I've been a G&L customer. I bought a turquoise mist Tribute JB only to discover that it had a 4-bolt, 21 fret neck and was not intonatable since the JB is designed for a 20 fret neck. While the decal on the neck said it was a JB, that neck was clearly made for either the Tribute SB-2 or Kiloton. On a USA, that couldn't happen because the JB is the only Fullerton bass with a 4-bolt system. Cort sent out hundreds of these turquoise mist JBs with the wrong necks. I still see some used ones selling on Reverb, etc. I just returned mine to the seller.