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G&L Club Part 7

My love affair with my L1K continues but has possibly reached a new level with flatwounds! I put a set of Dunlop String Lab flats on and I think it's a match made in heaven. It arrived with D'Addario nickels which I don't mind, though they aren't my favorite strings. I usually opt for DR True Blues and was going to put them on. But I just had a feeling...

These flats are so comfy and easy playing, with a warm, big fat sound but with plenty of bite. Great combination.

I've been almost exclusively a round (nickel) player for a long time but I may be a convert. What are y'all's thoughts on rounds v. flats on the L-1000? Any other brands that really stand out of the crowd?

My thoughts are that the big MFD pickup, especially on an L-1000, works great with any string type. On my two remaining 1000's, one has TI flats, the other has nickel rounds. I've tried all sorts of strings on L-1000's, from zingy Rotos, tapes, various flats, etc. It loves them all. I can't say that for many other basses, even other G&L's. That string-friendlyness is but one of several of the L-1000's strengths.
 
Pickups are the same, neck pickup position is the same. As mentioned, the L-1000 adds a single coil option that the L-2000 doesn't have. Mine differ a little in tone. The L-1000 seems a little more open sounding, maybe because there's no preamp in the circuit, I don't know. And people can argue wood differences, they have different strings, etc. But for that neck pickup tone, my L-1000 just sings so nicely.

View attachment 7493412

Yeah, 100% agree. If I want an active MFD sound I'd rather run an L-1000 into a pedal instead of using an L-2000. Not getting into the tall grass of how much effect (if any) the L-2000 pre has on the signal, but I've always felt there's a difference there.**

The woods aspect: To me, the MFD is powerful enough to overcome any influence that different woods might be trying to contribute to its signal.

Since buying my first L-1000's in 1980, I'm still in the camp that thinks the L-1000 is the "improved" successor to the Fender P bass. That was no easy task either, because the P bass never needed any technical improvements to be a great instrument.

** When it comes to the L-2000....IMO the original e-series L-2000 was a beast unto itself, and not like what the later, "emasculated" L-2000's became. I've had a couple e-types in the past, to me they were the real L-2000. Cheers.
 
They had P MFDs but sold out quickly.
The humbuckers are almost out(1 left) and bridges too (4 left).
Only 6 J left.
Maybe this is the rest of what they had or hopefully they'll put a few more up!
Wow. I'm glad I jumped on it when I did. Looks like all they have left for bass is the L-2500 at this point. I ordered two SB-1 pickups for a potential MFD Matador style build, and a pair of L-2000 pickups just because this was the last chance to get the real deal.
 
Hallo, das ist mein wunderschöner Fullerton L2K aus dem Jahr 2012.

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Now to my question. I love my bass, but I'm always thinking of installing the typical controlplate to this bass. Im from GER and it's extremely difficult to find G&L parts around. Do you know a shop that maybe selbst hardware like this sometimes?
 
Hallo, das ist mein wunderschöner Fullerton L2K aus dem Jahr 2012.

View attachment 7503437
View attachment 7503438

Now to my question. I love my bass, but I'm always thinking of installing the typical controlplate to this bass. Im from GER and it's extremely difficult to find G&L parts around. Do you know a shop that maybe selbst hardware like this sometimes?

I don't think anyone sells new batwing style L-2000 control plates currently. I'm also not quite sure that the hole placement for the rear cavity models exactly lines up with the control plate versions either. I'm hoping to be able to answer this question in the next month or so, however.


I personally have no idea in this respect, but I wouldn't assume that the pot shafts are necessarily the same length for the rear mounted, and plate mounted pre-amps.

If you instal a control plate, would you remove the wood on th face of the instrument, creating a cavity?

I take it you would just accept that the back of the instrument is going to have the plastic cavity cover, rather than attempt to fill, and match the finish?
 
I personally have no idea in this respect, but I wouldn't assume that the pot shafts are necessarily the same length for the rear mounted, and plate mounted pre-amps.

If you instal a control plate, would you remove the wood on th face of the instrument, creating a cavity?

I take it you would just accept that the back of the instrument is going to have the plastic cavity cover, rather than attempt to fill, and match the finish?
I would assume he'd want to install the plate for aesthetic reasons. The Stingray 4 HH models have an open rear cavity with plastic cover, and a control plate to keep the traditional look going. However, I don't know if they have the front of the body routed as well, where if you remove the plate and tea cover, you can see right through the bass…

Also, if doing that - adding a plate on top of the wood, you might need some extra-long pot shafts.
In have a rear-routed bass and the 3/4"
Long shafts only catch enough threads on the nut to sit flush. I wouldn't be able to add a plate with these pots.
 
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Hallo, das ist mein wunderschöner Fullerton L2K aus dem Jahr 2012.

View attachment 7503437
View attachment 7503438

Now to my question. I love my bass, but I'm always thinking of installing the typical controlplate to this bass. Im from GER and it's extremely difficult to find G&L parts around. Do you know a shop that maybe selbst hardware like this sometimes?
Please don't install the fugly control plate!
 
Now to my question. I love my bass, but I'm always thinking of installing the typical controlplate to this bass. Im from GER and it's extremely difficult to find G&L parts around. Do you know a shop that maybe selbst hardware like this sometimes?
Mach's nicht!

Control plates don't belong on L-2000s with the bottle opener headstock in my opinion.
 
I would assume he'd want to install the plate for aesthetic reasons. The Stingray 4 HH models have an open rear cavity with plastic cover, and a control plate to keep the traditional look going. However, I don't know if they have the front of the body routed as well, where if you remove the plate and tea cover, you can see right through the bass…

Also, if doing that - adding a plate on top of the wood, you might need some extra-long pot shafts.
In have a rear-routed bass and the 3/4"
Long shafts only catch enough threads on the nut to sit flush. I wouldn't be able to add a plate with these pots.
I've seen Sterling by Music Man 4HHs with a front and rear cavity and I've also seen an EBMM 4HH with a rear cavity and a vanity control plate.

Good point as well with the shafts - typically rear cavity basses use pots with 18.5mm (3/4") shafts. I would think that they would not be long enough to go through both wood and plate.
 
I just stumbled across this. I'm not in a financial position to cash in on this, but it's a decent deal, and these are getting very rare. I have no affiliation with this seller.

 
I just stumbled across this. I'm not in a financial position to cash in on this, but it's a decent deal, and these are getting very rare. I have no affiliation with this seller.

I have to wonder what "refurbishment" it could possibly have needed. Still, they aren't price gouging as that $1559 is less than what they were going for when they came out. Someone really should nab that, it's a fine bass.
 
I just stumbled across this. I'm not in a financial position to cash in on this, but it's a decent deal, and these are getting very rare. I have no affiliation with this seller.


Not a bad price for that model really, but they aren't saying what they mean by "refurbished". Given G&L's more recent history for cockups that could mean almost anything.

If someone doesn't mind the 10+ lbs, they might wanna look into it. With questions. Lots of questions. Assume nothing.
 
I have to wonder what "refurbishment" it could possibly have needed. Still, they aren't price gouging as that $1559 is less than what they were going for when they came out. Someone really should nab that, it's a fine bass.
I doubt it needed much, but even if it did, MIRC / FGW does an excellent job of refurbing instruments. I had an Epiphone Jack Casady signature bass that they actually had to glue the head back on, and you couldn't tell. I had it for about five years with no issues, then I sold it.
 
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Not a bad price for that model really, but they aren't saying what they mean by "refurbished". Given G&L's more recent history for cockups that could mean almost anything.

If someone doesn't mind the 10+ lbs, they might wanna look into it. With questions. Lots of questions. Assume nothing.
Yeah, I couldn't believe it was so heavy. I have a Tribute swamp ash Kiloton and a USA alder Kiloton. Both weigh in at 9 lbs, 9 ozs. Over ten lbs means I'd have to use a forklift to move it around. 😉😁
 
I've started working on an all-in-one PCB solution for L-2000/L-2500/ASAT/etc electronics.
Ideally I'd be able to make one PCB that would work with the Tributes, Fullerton Deluxe, and CLF batwing models. I have a Tribute L2K and a CLF batwing is on its way to me. Hopefully they're the same dimensions, if not I'll probably prioritize making a CLF version first.

Anyhow, here would be the features:
* Incorporates the Boscoe Music GLL2K preamp I put out late last year with LM4250 opamp
* Normal volume / treble / bass potentiometers
* Normal neck/both/bridge pickup selector
* Normal passive/active/bright preamp selector
* K-mod serial/split/parallel coil selector
* Screw terminals for wire attachments

A question I have for the community is this - what kind of split coil is preferred for the K-mod? Inner coils like a P-bass or outer coils like a Jazz? If I can figure it out I may incorporate an internal switch so that folks can have their choice, but most likely it'll be hardwired one or the other.

Any other features wanted? I know some folks have wanted a pre-Paul Gagon 80s style L2K preamp but unless someone can provide a schematic or send me one to trace that's probably not going to happen.

Note that I probably will not have the room to use a push-pull and I will not incorporate any additional external switches as I want it to be a drop-in electronics set - just provide pickups.
 
I just stumbled across this. I'm not in a financial position to cash in on this, but it's a decent deal, and these are getting very rare. I have no affiliation with this seller.

Woosh!
It wasn't me! 🤭
 
A question I have for the community is this - what kind of split coil is preferred for the K-mod? Inner coils like a P-bass or outer coils like a Jazz? If I can figure it out I may incorporate an internal switch so that folks can have their choice, but most likely it'll be hardwired one or the other.
I've tried both and both are great, but ultimately I prefer the inner coils if I were to do the K mod again.
 
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