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G&L Club Part 7

I have read that Kiliton owners (and I think Lobster said it [them]self) that the Kiloton could seriously use a Bass cut pot like the L-Series does…especially in Series mode. Perhaps the best mod for a K-ton would be to install an L-2xxx-Series preamp and obviously forego the pickup selector switch.
Though I've seen other mods like the addition of an MFD P-pickup. In that case you could use the selector. But I guess that's whether or not the parts would ever be available again…

I didn't think the L-1500 needed its bass cut. Maybe it would have been useful through some rigs, and maybe on the five-string L-1505, but I don't think I ever used the bass cut on my 1500. I almost always wanted more fatness, not less.

From what I've seen, most other basses with single pickups in that position have active EQ, and I understand why.
 
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I didn't think the L-1500 needed its bass cut. Maybe it would have been useful through some rigs, and maybe on the five-string L-1505, but I don't think I ever used the bass cut on my 1500. I almost always wanted more fatness, not less.

From what I've seen, most other basses with single pickups in that position have active EQ, and I understand why.
My thoughts exactly 👍🏼
 
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In had a couple kilotons for a couple years. If you use volume like an on/off switch, which is pretty much me, you probably won't get along with the Kiloton, which I ultimately didn't.

If you dont mind riding the volume at 7-8, it sorta evens out the difference between series, single, and parallel, and using it for boost as needed, then you'll probably love the kiloton.

Generally speaking.

I love the compact body shape and simplicity of the bass though, very comfortable and easy playing bass.
 
I have read that Kiliton owners (and I think Lobster said it [them]self) that the Kiloton could seriously use a Bass cut pot like the L-Series does…especially in Series mode. Perhaps the best mod for a K-ton would be to install an L-2xxx-Series preamp and obviously forego the pickup selector switch.
Though I've seen other mods like the addition of an MFD P-pickup. In that case you could use the selector. But I guess that's whether or not the parts would ever be available again…
I own two Kilotons, a USA and a Tribute. I don't think it needs a bass cut. If I want to cut the bass, I just switch it into parallel mode. But I prefer either the rich tone of series or the bite of single coil. If anyone felt like they needed more tonal diversity than a stock Kiloton -- and there are plenty of tones available there -- just drop in an inexpensive concentric preamp. I have an EMG in my JB-2 and a Seymour Duncan in my LB-100. They both work great in those basses. Both of my Kilotons are stock.
 
Does the preamp in the L basses have a subtle HPF? Whenever I hear a Kiloton there's this very low-down dimension that I never hear on L basses. Back when I was first choosing which G&L to get years ago, that slight but persistent rumble was what put me off.
 
Does the preamp in the L basses have a subtle HPF? Whenever I hear a Kiloton there's this very low-down dimension that I never hear on L basses. Back when I was first choosing which G&L to get years ago, that slight but persistent rumble was what put me off.
Not a cut but a lack of boost. The boost peaks in the mids. Here's a graph of the L2K preamp modes (off, normal, bright).

1777842933726.png
 
Not a cut but a lack of boost. The boost peaks in the mids. Here's a graph of the L2K preamp modes (off, normal, bright).

View attachment 7487426
That was my perception as well, though I'd no graphs to prove it - thank you. I loved running the 1500 passive, the pickup position providing all the brightness needed. I recall plenty of low end out in the house, just maybe less on stage than other L models - which at least one guitarist praised to no end. I wish I had it back. …dumb trade. :bassist:
 
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I own two Kilotons, a USA and a Tribute. I don't think it needs a bass cut. If I want to cut the bass, I just switch it into parallel mode. But I prefer either the rich tone of series or the bite of single coil. If anyone felt like they needed more tonal diversity than a stock Kiloton -- and there are plenty of tones available there -- just drop in an inexpensive concentric preamp. I have an EMG in my JB-2 and a Seymour Duncan in my LB-100. They both work great in those basses. Both of my Kilotons are stock.
I had a Kiloton V, was really into it for a while, loved the body shape, simplicity and ergonomics. String spacing a bit tight(the nut width on mine was crafted narrower than stock for whatever reason but not a deal breaker). I would never want a bass cut on a Kilo. I always boosted some lows with that bass with a Xotic RC pedal, more so than I would boost on something like my passive P's to get me to the same place. Part of that is because turns out I'm not a single bridge-ward pickup guy (I never kept a 'Ray around for long either). My fave sound on it was single coil, flatwounds and a pick, boosting some lows down the line. Punch for days.
 
L1K arrived today and let me just say...amazing. I love the bass after only a few minutes jamming with my son and this particular instrument is crazy nice for being 12 years old. Thank you @herrspektor for a really special instrument!

Question: I think I want/need to replace the output jack. All my cables work fine with it but my new Xvive wireless transmitter (A58) does not make 100% contact so I'd be afraid to use it live. This bass is the non-CLF version so it's got the rear access (no control plate in the front) and it looks like the jack is quite long since it goes through the body. Do I need a barrel jack like this? Pure Tone Mono/Stereo 1/4in. Barrel Jack - Best Bass Gear

I'd rather not swap anything out since it's all original but I'd rather trust my wireless than take a chance. Any other suggestions are welcome.

What a great bass! She's now alongside my SB-1 as a keeper!
 
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L1K arrived today and let me just say...amazing. I love the bass after only a few minutes jamming with my son and this particular instrument is crazy nice for being 12 years old. Thank you @herrspektor for a really special instrument!

Question: I think I want/need to replace the output jack. All my cables work fine with it but my new Xvive wireless transmitter (A58) does make 100% contact so I'd be afraid to use it live. This bass is the non-CLF version so it's got the rear access (no control plate in the front) and it looks like the jack is quite long since it goes through the body. Do I need a barrel jack like this? Pure Tone Mono/Stereo 1/4in. Barrel Jack - Best Bass Gear

I'd rather not swap anything out since it's all original but I'd rather trust my wireless than take a chance. Any other suggestions are welcome.

What a great bass! She's now alongside my SB-1 as a keeper!
I just replaced mine with a Switchcraft 151 and it works great, feels solid.


The L1K only needs a mono jack. You could use a stereo jack, but it's just one more connection point that can fail, IMO. Though I do have one of those Pure Tone jacks in a guitar and it's pretty good. If you do use the Pure Tone, I do recall that the lugs that you solder the wires onto didn't match up with the jack that it replaced, so just double check the schematic for the jack.
 
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I just replaced mine with a Switchcraft 151 and it works great, feels solid.


The L1K only needs a mono jack. You could use a stereo jack, but it's just one more connection point that can fail, IMO. Though I do have one of those Pure Tone jacks in a guitar and it's pretty good. If you do use the Pure Tone, I do recall that the lugs that you solder the wires onto didn't match up with the jack that it replaced, so just double check the schematic for the jack.
Just ordered! Thank you!
 
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I just replaced mine with a Switchcraft 151 and it works great, feels solid.


The L1K only needs a mono jack. You could use a stereo jack, but it's just one more connection point that can fail, IMO. Though I do have one of those Pure Tone jacks in a guitar and it's pretty good. If you do use the Pure Tone, I do recall that the lugs that you solder the wires onto didn't match up with the jack that it replaced, so just double check the schematic for the jack.
Was the 151 the right size? I read something that indicated the 152 is a better fit.

Also, there's a Basses By Leo post that makes it look pretty involved to replace. Was it easy for you?

 
Was the 151 the right size? I read something that indicated the 152 is a better fit.

Also, there's a Basses By Leo post that makes it look pretty involved to replace. Was it easy for you?

Actually looks easier than I thought. I guess the jack is screwed into the body so it doesn't just slip out. No problem. I'll just use a reamer (that's what she said?).
 
New jack installed! Easy and in fact peasy. Now the connection is perfect and this L1K is going to see a lot of playing time.

It really checks boxes that the Kiloton didn't quite for me. I think having the MFD farther up makes a huge difference. I get the love for this instrument. And I think it's a great looking too!

Thanks for the tips and advice.