G&L Club Part 7

[Nedmundo]

I feel Dimarzio Model Js are sort of that pickup. I have them in my MJ-4. Had to squeeze the foam way down though. They're a bit taller than normal.

I suspect you're right about that, because DiMarzio's Model P sounds very close to the MFD split-coil from the SB-1 and SB-2.

If you want some MFD vibe from a J-bass pickup, I think Bardens are a good option. I used some in a Fender Jazz V for awhile, and I thought they sounded like two thirds conventional J pickup mixed with one third MFD humbucker.

A couple of weeks ago, I got Nordstrand Big J Blades (Warm & Wooly) installed in my Sandberg TT-5, and they have tiny hints of MFD vibe as well. Maybe it's the ceramic magnets, but whatever it is, they brought the Sandberg's tone a little closer to my M-2500. Or maybe it's just that their even response is more like the M. Who knows. Regardless, they're closer to traditional J-bass tone than the Bardens, and I think they're excellent.

 

[Mister_GothFrak]

I feel Dimarzio Model Js are sort of that pickup. I have them in my MJ-4. Had to squeeze the foam way down though. They're a bit taller than normal.

I'm wondering, what have you done with the original pups from your MJ-4? Wanna sell 'em to me?

 

[RL5]

If anyone is interested, there are a couple of G&Ls listed for sale near me on Craigslist, both from the '80s:

G&L L-1000 Bass - Vintage early 1980s - musical instruments - by owner - sale - craigslist

Used 1980s G&L L-1000 Electric Bass Guitar in good condition. Why pay $1,600+ for a new G&L CLF Research L-1000 when you could own the original? This is likely an ash body (not mahogany, as...

cosprings.craigslist.org

G&L SB-1 - Vintage circa 1987 P-Bass Slayer! - musical instruments - by owner - sale - craigslist

For sale is a vintage G&L SB-1, second generation with the MFD split-coil pickup and body with cutouts. Get some true vintage Made in America quality for much less than you would pay for a...

cosprings.craigslist.org

Don't know who the seller is or anything about these specific basses. I have no affiliation with these ads.

 

[TomB]

If anyone is interested, there are a couple of G&Ls listed for sale near me on Craigslist, both from the '80s:

G&L L-1000 Bass - Vintage early 1980s - musical instruments - by owner - sale - craigslist

Used 1980s G&L L-1000 Electric Bass Guitar in good condition. Why pay $1,600+ for a new G&L CLF Research L-1000 when you could own the original? This is likely an ash body (not mahogany, as...

cosprings.craigslist.org

G&L SB-1 - Vintage circa 1987 P-Bass Slayer! - musical instruments - by owner - sale - craigslist

For sale is a vintage G&L SB-1, second generation with the MFD split-coil pickup and body with cutouts. Get some true vintage Made in America quality for much less than you would pay for a...

cosprings.craigslist.org

Don't know who the seller is or anything about these specific basses. I have no affiliation with these ads.

Based on appearances that black L1K is a very old one, likely '80 or '81.

 

[bpabon]

NBD: Fretless L-1500 (6 neck bolts)

This was a big deal for me, the fanciest bass so far.

An eBay pawn shop deal, I expected that it would need some TLC, so I'm here for advice on control cavity housekeeping:

- The battery was dead and corroded so badly that the POS terminal broke free and stayed fused to the connector. Should I replace the whole tab with a (nicer) new one?

- Some of the solder joints look amateurish, is that normal? For instance the tone cap area has some messy joints.

- The foam around the preamp is crumbling, should I replace it?

- was the body originally blue?

I know that this model is never to be made again, so should I try to stay faithful to the original parts in this case?
Am I overthinking this and should I just replace the battery and move on?

 

[Mister_GothFrak]

Should I replace the whole tab with a (nicer) new one?

- Some of the solder joints look amateurish, is that normal? For instance the tone cap area has some messy joints.

- The foam around the preamp is crumbling, should I replace it?

I am no expert.

First, I'd try mixing a few drops of baking soda and distilled water then scrub with a cotton swap and maybe poke with a tooth pick until the broken battery piece comes off. I suggest using needle nose plyers.

While you're in there, get a can of cleaner for the pots. Unless it's noisy, I wouldn't worry too much about the sloppy solder. I'd leave it unless you plan on swapping out the preamp or something.

Definitely replace foam. Foams, plastics, and such are meant to be replaced after a few decades.

 

[TDR1138]

Played a car show yesterday evening. My Bel Air green LB-100 found a friend.

 

[bpabon]

I am no expert.

First, I'd try mixing a few drops of baking soda and distilled water then scrub with a

... This worked like charm, thank you.

 

[Big Louzer]

Played a car show yesterday evening. My Bel Air green LB-100 found a friend.

View attachment 7477018

Man, my favorite year, '55…

 

[Remoman]

Played a car show yesterday evening. My Bel Air green LB-100 found a friend

That was going to be my "exact" next G&L! And is that the GG car show? I play there regularly in the Jazz band, on bone though.

 

[TDR1138]

That was going to be my "exact" next G&L! And is that the GG car show? I play there regularly in the Jazz band, on bone though.

Yes, it was. My first time there. Pretty fun.

 

[bpabon]

I am no expert.

While you're in there, get a can of cleaner for the pots

The volume and tone pots cleaned up nicely.
The third pot seems a bit messed up. Lots of play around the dedent and a hum at both sides of the dedent for the beginning of the sweep;

New video · Friday, Apr 24 🎬

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photos.app.goo.gl

 

[TDR1138]

The volume and tone pots cleaned up nicely.
The third pot seems a bit messed up. Lots of play around the dedent and a hum at both sides of the dedent for the beginning of the sweep;

Well, there shouldn't be a detent, so that could be the problem right there. Should be a smooth sweep just like the other pots.

 

[bpabon]

...well, since I live 15 minutes from Upfront Guitar and the carry both G&L and Emerson, I'm going to wimp out and have them upgrade all the pots since they know what it's supposed to look like.

 

[-Boscoe-]

...well, since I live 15 minutes from Upfront Guitar and the carry both G&L and Emerson, I'm going to wimp out and have them upgrade all the pots since they know what it's supposed to look like.

One thing to note is that the bass pot should be a C1M, which many places do not stock. You might have to order it online or wait for them to get it.

 

[bpabon]

Hmmm, interesting... this rather unusual item has reverse taper AND a center detent:

https://ebay.us/m/aI3eRO

I wonder if the pot in my L-1500 was intended for the L-2000 ?

 

[-Boscoe-]

Hmmm, interesting... this rather unusual item has reverse taper AND a center detent:

https://ebay.us/m/aI3eRO

I wonder if the pot in my L-1500 was intended for the L-2000 ?

My understanding is that the L-1500 should have the same PTB system as the L-2000 - it just differs in the switches. Given that it's a cut-only treble and bass system a center detent isn't a usual thing to have (but doesn't hurt anything). I've attached a wiring diagram that is typical for the L-1500.

Sourcing potentiometers can be a real challenge in order quantities of less than 500 (which seems to be most manufacturer's minimum order quantity), especially when dealing with less commonly used values like C1M (1M ohm reverse audio) or A100K (100K ohm audio). It's even more of a pain if you want center detents or need 18mm long shafts with 10mm threads (for through body mountings like yours).

I've spent a lot of time over the last two years sourcing potentiometers from various places and now I just buy in bulk direct from a manufacturer as its the only way to get the pots I need. I still don't have a good supplier for the "full sized" potentiometers used in older basses.

 

[TDR1138]

Hmmm, interesting... this rather unusual item has reverse taper AND a center detent:

https://ebay.us/m/aI3eRO

I wonder if the pot in my L-1500 was intended for the L-2000 ?

The L1500 and L2000 had the same pots.

There were a few differences between the L1500 and L2000 circuits, though.

The L2000 has a 3-way switch for passive/active/active with treble boost, where the L1500 just had passive/active.

The treble boost was built into the L1500's active setting, as there's a resister on the circuit board that differs from the L2000.

The L1500 never had the OMG caps that the L2000 had up though the late 90s.

The other wiring difference was a small loading capacitor on the L2000 that is attached to the bass pot that was omitted from the L1500.

 

[Iridescentone]

The L1500 and L2000 had the same pots.

There were a few differences between the L1500 and L2000 circuits, though.

The L2000 has a 3-way switch for passive/active/active with treble boost, where the L1500 just had passive/active.

The treble boost was built into the L1500's active setting, as there's a resister on the circuit board that differs from the L2000.

The L1500 never had the OMG caps that the L2000 had up though the late 90s.

The other wiring difference was a small loading capacitor on the L2000 that is attached to the bass pot that was omitted from the L1500.

Exactly. I did a mod on one of mine...changed a couple component values that took out some of the 1500's baked-in nasty "bite".

Long time ago, but I think I changed both a resistor value, and a cap value. Helped, but still a nasty sounding bass overall, at least for me.

 

[-Boscoe-]

Exactly. I did a mod on one of mine...changed a couple component values that took out some of the 1500's baked-in nasty "bite".

Long time ago, but I think I changed both a resistor value, and a cap value. Helped, but still a nasty sounding bass overall, at least for me.

I saved a thread from Paul Gagon from the BassesByLeo forum before it shut down that explains the situation and how it might be tamed. It's a PDF so hopefully it won't get blocked by TB.