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My SB-2 has factory VVT with input on the side. It really opens up the sonic possibilities. I think it is the ultimate hybrid of a P and a J.
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Figured I'd post my new JB-5 twins here too.
I'm gassing for a 5 string and the L2500 has caught my eye. I have never played or even seen a G&L bass because there are none in my area. Anything I should know like best place and price on a new one. Years to avoid if I go used. Any common issues. I'm pretty much not picky when it comes to feel, I switch between Rick, Stingray and Jazz and feel comfortable on any of them. I play Texas Country for my money gig and rock at home for fun. Only other 5 I'm considering is a stingray 5 but the G&L is just sexy looking.
That's the way it should be.
I was recently looking to buy a P/J & my first thoughts were the SB-2, until I saw that they have no treble cut (tone knob) and the jack is on the front.
I dislike having the jack on the front, and I do realize that it could easily be modded to put a treble cut where the jack is, but then you'd have to drill the body for the jack.
My new rule is, no more modding, because it's just a distraction from playing.
Did you order yours custom made?
I sold my ASAT, but I still own a G&L:
I just fell across this picture by chance (a 2008 classified in the UK).
It's another 1996-early 1997 G&L L2500 Custom in Clear Orange (4+1 headstock).
But it's actually the first time ever I see one with a maple fretboard.
It's another 1996-early 1997 G&L L2500 Custom in Clear Orange (4+1 headstock).
But it's actually the first time ever I see one with a maple fretboard.
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It was a custom order, but I bought it like that here on TB classifieds. I had an SB-2 in the late 90s with no tone control and yes, it makes a difference. I think G&L would do themselves a favor by making that the stock configuration.That's the way it should be.
I was recently looking to buy a P/J & my first thoughts were the SB-2, until I saw that they have no treble cut (tone knob) and the jack is on the front.
I dislike having the jack on the front, and I do realize that it could easily be modded to put a treble cut where the jack is, but then you'd have to drill the body for the jack.
My new rule is, no more modding, because it's just a distraction from playing.
Did you order yours custom made?
I sold my ASAT, but I still own a G&L:
Anyone know of a replacement bridge for a G&L 5er that's either 18mm spacing (or is adjustable to 18) without leaving any marks? I'm OK with 17 for fingerstyle, but for the little slap I toy around with, 18mm is better/easier.
No such thing. G&L bridge is sunk into the body for better acoustical contact. You'd have to have a custom bridge made for you that has a larger footprint and uses the same mounting holes (or not, if additional holes in the recess are acceptable for you).
still waiting...maybe a month more but it will be worth it. some shenanigans from the seller but I cant let this one go.
I had a 90's era SB-2 that I had modified to Volume and Tone and a pickup selector switch. Turns out I'm one of those guys that always leaves the tone up all the way, so I had it modified back to two volume knobs and converted the pickup selector switch to a kill switch. Ended up selling it. Turns out I prefer my SB-1, tonewise anyway.
Yikes, I've never heard or seen a custom made G&L replacement bridge. Must be quite an undertaking...
John
John
I've always wondered about using the 4-string saddles in the 5-string baseplate, shaving down the sides of the baseplate to fit the wider saddles in. Never got serious enough to really look into it, though.
Thinking outside the box a little, but depending on the width, you might be able to swap the stock saddles with the ones from a schaller
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that way you have the same bridge but the ability to adjust the spacing.
Anything is possible if your pockets are deep enough. You could probably copy the G&L's bridge and keep the footprint size and enlarge the top end a little to accommodate the increased spacing. That's just a little CAD work. Then you'd have to get it machined. It would cost and it may not work in the end due to the neck width, the strings may be too close to the edge of the fretboard.
I agree with Lomo though, it's a little tight to slap on 17mm spacing for me too.
The bridge would be 4mm wider overall which would put the b and the g strings 2mm Closer to the edge of the fretboard on either side. Might end up fairly difficult to play without pulling the strings off the fretboard.
After considering it for a minute, it might be possible and cheaper to get a replacement bridge from G&L and machine some material off the inside where the saddles are to widen it that way. You would have to come up with different saddles to fit the spacing, but you would still have the potential fretboard problem.
