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G&L Club Part 7

Nice! Are you buying used or getting a new one built? Color?
I ended up going new as it was only a couple hundred more. The used one was nice but #12 neck 1 5/8" nut which is a bit too wide for me. The used one did have a birdseye maple neck but comfort is more important to me.

Anyways my specs are:
#8 neck (or whatever they call it now) 9.5" radius
vintage frets
quarter sawn maple board
royal purple metallic with matching HS
pearl dots and pearl PG
alder body

can't wait!! I had a purple LB in the past but again with #12 neck and no matching HS which are my favorites. I had a clear blue LB that I really liked but purple is my true love
 
I ended up going new as it was only a couple hundred more. The used one was nice but #12 neck 1 5/8" nut which is a bit too wide for me. The used one did have a birdseye maple neck but comfort is more important to me.

Anyways my specs are:
#8 neck (or whatever they call it now) 9.5" radius
vintage frets
quarter sawn maple board
royal purple metallic with matching HS
pearl dots and pearl PG
alder body

can't wait!! I had a purple LB in the past but again with #12 neck and no matching HS which are my favorites. I had a clear blue LB that I really liked but purple is my true love
Sounds nice. Looking forward to NBD pics!
 
Is that a red empress from Craigb? He's still talking about that one. Got a pic handy?
SB-2 4.jpeg
 
After digging around on the bassesbyleo forum, I found the source of the rattle. There are two loose clovers on the tuning keys. Only the G-string key seems to rattle, but the D and G tuners both have loose clovers on them. I'll replace the G tuner with my E tuner when I install the Hipshot D-tuner and see if the rattle goes away.

If you find you still have a rattle a drop of Gorilla Super Glue at the point where the clover and the stem meet will solve the problem. Just give the glue time to dry and only use a very small drop.
 
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I ended up going new as it was only a couple hundred more. The used one was nice but #12 neck 1 5/8" nut which is a bit too wide for me. The used one did have a birdseye maple neck but comfort is more important to me.

Anyways my specs are:
#8 neck (or whatever they call it now) 9.5" radius
vintage frets
quarter sawn maple board
royal purple metallic with matching HS
pearl dots and pearl PG
alder body

can't wait!! I had a purple LB in the past but again with #12 neck and no matching HS which are my favorites. I had a clear blue LB that I really liked but purple is my true love

Cool. I have a Royal Purple SB-2T with matching HS coming in tomorrow. I can't wait to crank away on it!
 
I ended up going new as it was only a couple hundred more. The used one was nice but #12 neck 1 5/8" nut which is a bit too wide for me. The used one did have a birdseye maple neck but comfort is more important to me.

Anyways my specs are:
#8 neck (or whatever they call it now) 9.5" radius
vintage frets
quarter sawn maple board
royal purple metallic with matching HS
pearl dots and pearl PG
alder body

can't wait!! I had a purple LB in the past but again with #12 neck and no matching HS which are my favorites. I had a clear blue LB that I really liked but purple is my true love
Sounds fantastic, will look forward to the NBD post!
 
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If you find you still have a rattle a drop of Gorilla Super Glue at the point where the clover and the stem meet will solve the problem. Just give the glue time to dry and only use a very small drop.

Maybe; it's a cyanoacrylate type of adhesive and works in the absence of air between perfectly flat surfaces.

Or just take it to a machine shop; wrap the stem in a rag and have them apply some pressure with an arbor press. It's an interference fit, and that's how it was made.
You could also take some aluminum or brass sheet material and use a vice at home. Most vices have a texture on the inner faces of the jaws that will leave a mark without a softer material in between; use a thick rag too.
 
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Maybe; it's a cyanoacrylate type of adhesive and works in the absence of air between perfectly flat surfaces.

Or just take it to a machine shop; wrap the stem in a rag and have them apply some pressure with an arbor press. It's an interference fit, and that's how it was made.
You could also take some aluminum or brass sheet material and use a vice at home. Most vices have a texture on the inner faces of the jaws that will leave a mark without a softer material in between; use a thick rag too.

I emailed G&L just to see what they had to say about it. Memo indeed said to use Super Glue as a repair method. He (I'm assuming Memo is male, maybe I shouldn't assume) then offered to send a whole new set free of charge. Now that is great customer service!
 
I emailed G&L just to see what they had to say about it. Memo indeed said to use Super Glue as a repair method. He (I'm assuming Memo is male, maybe I shouldn't assume) then offered to send a whole new set free of charge. Now that is great customer service!

Now THAT is the best fix!
Very cool of G&L
I just don't see super glue as a permanent fix
 
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Now THAT is the best fix!
Very cool of G&L
I just don't see super glue as a permanent fix

Yeah, SG would definitely be a short-term fix. Probably long enough to save some pennies for replacement Hipshots.

Really blown away that Memo offered to send new tuners. They're only $18.00 each on their web site, but the gesture to someone who just bought a used instrument goes miles towards showing how much they value their customers.

Now, I wonder what one of those option order Kilotons would run...:help::whistle::roflmao::bassist:
 
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