Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
It's been discussed here before, along with a putative explanation from someone at G&L regarding how they do factory set-up. In terms of my basses, they're mostly quite new. No older 3-bolters.
@jmlee - thanks for the reply.
These shims at StewMac are what I've been looking at. I don't like the idea of gaps between a shim and the pocket. Just as StewMac says in their videos, it can only cause buckling or other problems down the road and possibly not transfer vibrations as much.
So I'm going to order some of the blanks but I'm not sure what angle I'll need, so I'll order 2 of each (I haven't done this before). I'll post back when the project is done.
That mod is pretty straight forward. I used a .022 cap. I believe it rolls off at a lower frequency.
Take pictures before you start!
Yeah pretty sure that's how my Climax was set up, IICR. I couldn't tame the baked-in harshness of that bass, though. Got it from the Dudepit classifieds, seller warned me about the nasty sound...he was right.
If I had know about the L-1500 mods back then (assuming same mods would work on a Climax) I might still have that bass! Super light weight, played beautifully, cool Goldburst finish, minty condition.
Outstanding, purple is the ballz. Grats.
Question....is the recent G&L "Royal" Purple the same finish as the early 90's G&L metallic purple? Or is it more candy-ish?
You must be cursed or something!
Perhaps...I have other evidence to support that view. As to the saddles bottoming out and shims being needed, two of those bases are recent option order builds: a new LB-100 and a new JB-5. In both cases only the G-string saddle is bottomed-out.
Perhaps...I have other evidence to support that view. As to the saddles bottoming out and shims being needed, two of those bases are recent option order builds: a new LB-100 and a new JB-5. In both cases only the G-string saddle is bottomed-out.
I do seem to recall a couple posts about bottoming (is that a word?) saddles in the past. Or maybe those posts were yours. lol
I'm just glad it's never happened to me!
Are you saying that bridge height screws are fully extended and you can't raise the action high enough or that you think the net pocket is not milled square to the bottom mounting point of the neck?
A straight shim would raise the neck evenly and create less distance between the strings and the frets so that the screws would not be too short.
-- If it's just one or two strings buy longer screws from macmastercarr.com
If you want to tilt the neck then you would use an angled shim to change the angle of the frets to the strings.
-- Do you know that's a problem? If it's because there isn't enough space between strings and frets I think machining the back of the neck is better than a tilt. Others will disagree.
Insane pricing for straight shims from SM when business cards work great.
G&L does seem to have had issues with ski-jumps with improper adjustment of the tilt neck (on the 3-bolt neck models) so agreed a flat shim regardless of angle is best.
Nope. The opposite. Screws all the way in and saddle sitting on the bridge plate with action still too high. Neck needs to be raised or tilted back to allow extension of the screws and adjustment of action. Nothing to do with ski jump geometry or truss rod adjustment.
Correct. I can't get the strings lower because the saddles are bottomed out. If I can raise the neck in the neck pocket I'll be able to bring the saddles up to get the action I want.
But I think I want a flat shim. I don't see a reason to use an angled shim. Anyone have arguments for/against angled shims?
I've see a lot of recommendations to put a narrow strip of something or even a pick in the back of the neck pocket - not something that sits flat across the bottom of the neck pocket and the neck the way the StewMac shims do. I agree with the StewMac guys that that is a bad idea that can cause problems in the future.
I like really low action and I’d say 75% of the basses that I’ve owned have needed a shim. US G&L’s, Tribute G&L’s, US and Foreign made Fenders, nice basses, cheap basses you name it. My 80 L-1000 and my Peavey T40 have some micro-tilt dialed in. For shims I usually cut a business card or card stock paper to fit in the base of the neck pocket. Only about 1/2 to 3/4” long so it sits behind the bottom neck screws. This creates a little angle and 95% of this time this is plenty to get those saddles from bottoming out. I’m sure the StewMac shims are a bit nicer than the business card, but it accomplishes the same thing.
This scenario is what I was referring to when preferring a flat shim that sits flush on the neck pocket and the back of the neck. I don't want any gaps between the neck pocket and the neck.
Wouldn’t you see a flat shim between the neck and body where they meet though? Might look kind of weird.
Good question and I'm not sure of the answer.
I think I would cut the flat shim in ~1/32 or so from the edge of the neck pocket.
This is why I'm here looking for input.
To be fair, I’ve never used the StewMac shims. I think the idea is solid. I could see where using too much shim on one part of the neck over a long period of time might induce some ski jump.
