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G&L Club Part 7

Now THAT is the best fix!
Very cool of G&L
I just don't see super glue as a permanent fix

I have a friend who treated one of his basses with Super Glue about 10 years ago and it’s held with no issues. My brand new CLF L-1000 had a rattle. I just didn’t think Super Glue was appropriate on a brand spankin’ new bass. I contacted my dealer and about a week later a package arrived from G&L with a replacement.
 
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The saddles on the E and G strings on my LB-100 are bottomed out. I can't get the E string down to where I want it and the whole string to fretboard profile is flat. I need to shim the neck but I'm trying to decide what kind of shim to get; i.e. what angle or flat - if they make such an animal.
What shims are you guys using on your LB-100's when you shim?
 
The saddles on the E and G strings on my LB-100 are bottomed out. I can't get the E string down to where I want it and the whole string to fretboard profile is flat. I need to shim the neck but I'm trying to decide what kind of shim to get; i.e. what angle or flat - if they make such an animal.
What shims are you guys using on your LB-100's when you shim?

I usually use business cards.
 
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Anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram for an SB-2T? I found one for an SB-1 and SB-2, but not the SB-2T. I can solder well enough and copy a diagram, but I don't know enough to make one up on my own and know that I'd have it correct.

I have a USA made SB-2 and I want to add a tone pot. Current pots are a little scratchy anyway. Without drilling any holes, I planned to install a stacked pot and regular pot.

Current plan is to get the 250k CTS solid shaft pot and the 250k/500k stacked solid shaft pot with a cap (.047?) for the tone control. This would give me V/V/T. Can anyone tell me if I've got that right and where I might look? Please feel free to point me to an existing thread...couldn't find what I needed searching which is why I'm posting here.

Here is what I found so far...
G&L Wiring Diagrams and Schematics
 
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I'm still on the fence about what to do with my MJ-4. I'm looking for a more aggressive tone from it and was thinking of dropping in some aftermarket pickups.

Any suggestions? Would most any pickup work with the preamp? Should I stay with a hum cancelling model?
 
Anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram for an SB-2T? I found one for an SB-1 and SB-2, but not the SB-2T. I can solder well enough and copy a diagram, but I don't know enough to make one up on my own and know that I'd have it correct.

I have a USA made SB-2 and I want to add a tone pot. Current pots are a little scratchy anyway. Without drilling any holes, I planned to install a stacked pot and regular pot.

Current plan is to get the 250k CTS solid shaft pot and the 250k/500k stacked solid shaft pot with a cap (.047?) for the tone control. This would give me V/V/T. Can anyone tell me if I've got that right and where I might look? Please feel free to point me to an existing thread...couldn't find what I needed searching which is why I'm posting here.

Here is what I found so far...
G&L Wiring Diagrams and Schematics

I did a master volume, master tone, pan and really like it.

The stacked pot in the front is a master volume, master tone and the rear is a pan.

Blend pot: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005G3WK5E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Master Volume, Master Tone: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I used this as a wiring guide: [This invalid link has been removed]
 
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If you want aggressive tone, go single coil.
If you want rounder, warmer tone, go humbuggler

Completely agree. May also want to look in to "stock" winds and not "overwound" as well. Tends to retain more bite that way, if that is something you desire of course.

I have been completely satisfied with my Fralin stock winds.
 
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I did a master volume, master tone, pan and really like it.
Hey, I found one for sale wired that way... Why?

Obviously, a person could easily set volume to zero between songs. But, I thought that SB-2 pickups changed tone as the volume is dialed up from 7 to 10. Wouldn't that make the pan knob act as a second (third?) tone control?

Teach me, Obi-wan...

;->
 
Hey, I found one for sale wired that way... Why?

Obviously, a person could easily set volume to zero between songs. But, I thought that SB-2 pickups changed tone as the volume is dialed up from 7 to 10. Wouldn't that make the pan knob act as a second (third?) tone control?

Teach me, Obi-wan...

;->

I prefer the blend, because it's much easier to set the tone. The blend (like most) has a center detent. Most of the "mixed" sounds occur just off that detent so it's easy to remember what to set just by feel off that detent.

I guess it might be possible to miss some tone combinations with a blend/master volume? I think they'd be pretty subtle though.

With the blend set, I can use master volume without inadvertently messing with the tone.

And the tone for me, lets me roll of that bit of highs I sometimes don't want.

It's such a versatile bass. I think it and the L2K were Leo's best G&L basses.
 
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I did a master volume, master tone, pan and really like it.

The stacked pot in the front is a master volume, master tone and the rear is a pan.

Blend pot: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005G3WK5E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Master Volume, Master Tone: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I used this as a wiring guide: [This invalid link has been removed]
I’m looking to do V/V/T wiring. Any feedback from TB about my planned parts listed above? Perhaps I should post in electronics...
 
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Stupid Deal of the Day at Musician's Friend. I know this isn't bass-related but I've always had a soft spot for the Irish Ale finish with the tort guard. Purdy!

I've got Tribby versions of this guitar and an ASAT Classic, both in white. Great sounding instruments. Both quite well made with good pickups. Needed a little attention with a fret file...
 
The saddles on the E and G strings on my LB-100 are bottomed out. I can't get the E string down to where I want it and the whole string to fretboard profile is flat. I need to shim the neck but I'm trying to decide what kind of shim to get; i.e. what angle or flat - if they make such an animal.
What shims are you guys using on your LB-100's when you shim?

Well, that's remarkably commonplace with G&Ls. Probably half of my 8 have needed (or currently need but I haven't got around to it) shimming. I prefer thin wood veneer slices to business cards, although apparently the latter will work OK. StewMac has some nice wood ones with variable angle to them that I've toyed with ordering. Not expensive and you can get them with pre-made openings for the screws or as blanks. The ones with holes are intended for Fender necks, but I'll bet they'll work fine with an LB-100.

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