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G&L Club Part 7

Mmmm that CLF L-2500, that'll be my next bass. How does that neck play with the 9.5" radius? I haven't had a chance to play one yet, wondering if it'll be noticeable vs. my L-2500 with the standard 12".
I have an older Tribute L-2500...one that says "Tribute" bigger than it says G&L...the CLF neck feels a little less chunky overall, but I don't know how that Tribute compares to a USA model. I think the CLF neck probably a little thinner front to back.

As for the 9.5" radius, I'm not sure. I tell myself that I like a flatter radius better for five string basses, but really, I can't feel a difference. I've seen people say that a flatter radius will take a lower string action, but I've thought about that and I can't figure out how that makes any sense at all.
 
If anyone has an extra SB pickguard or knows where I can find one let me know!
Home | Pickguard Planet

Had a blue pearl one made for my SB-2. Very nice.

IMG_0049.jpg
 
Mmmm that CLF L-2500, that'll be my next bass. How does that neck play with the 9.5" radius? I haven't had a chance to play one yet, wondering if it'll be noticeable vs. my L-2500 with the standard 12".
My CLF L2500 has a 9.5" radius. I love it. I had a Reverend Mercalli 5 with a 12" radius when I was first starting on five string. Overall, I had trouble on that neck, but it may have been my lack of familiarity with 5 strings.

Now I have a Reverend Decision P with a 12" radius. It's a four string and I like it fine, but the L2500 is fantastic as far as I'm concerned. I also have a fretless Kiloton 5 with a 9.5" radius. It's just as wonderful. My preference will be 9.5" on all my future basses, but I have no problem moving between 7.5" and 12" as well.
 
I have a question regarding the serial parallel switch on the L2K/L2.5K - I get the increased output when I have the pickup selector in the middle (both pickups selected) but why does it also make a difference when I have only pickup selected? Is it combining the individual coils of the MFD's differently? If so, shouldn't I notice more noise too?
 
I have a question regarding the serial parallel switch on the L2K/L2.5K - I get the increased output when I have the pickup selector in the middle (both pickups selected) but why does it also make a difference when I have only pickup selected? Is it combining the individual coils of the MFD's differently? If so, shouldn't I notice more noise too?

The series/parallel is switching the orientation of the coils in each pickup (both at the same time), not the pickups in relation to each other. So each individual pickup is impacted.
 
My CLF L2500 has a 9.5" radius. I love it. I had a Reverend Mercalli 5 with a 12" radius when I was first starting on five string. Overall, I had trouble on that neck, but it may have been my lack of familiarity with 5 strings.

Now I have a Reverend Decision P with a 12" radius. It's a four string and I like it fine, but the L2500 is fantastic as far as I'm concerned. I also have a fretless Kiloton 5 with a 9.5" radius. It's just as wonderful. My preference will be 9.5" on all my future basses, but I have no problem moving between 7.5" and 12" as well.

Great input, thanks! Exactly what I wanted to hear. I've been playing my Interceptor and '83 SB-2 for the last three years and got used to their 7.5" radius. The need for 5 strings came around again so I've been playing my L-2500 and wishing for a little bit more curvature. But not as much as my L-5000, also 7.5". Sounds like the 9.5" on the CLF is exactly what I'm after.
 
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Question about USA SB-2 necks. I'm looking at a few, both new and used. I see a couple listed as 'slim C' and a couple listed as 'medium C'. Can someone tell me the difference?

I've been 'blessed' with really small hands, so I typically gravitate to the smallest neck I can find.

I DID try to search this before posting the question. Thanks.
 
Question about USA SB-2 necks. I'm looking at a few, both new and used. I see a couple listed as 'slim C' and a couple listed as 'medium C'. Can someone tell me the difference?

I've been 'blessed' with really small hands, so I typically gravitate to the smallest neck I can find.

I DID try to search this before posting the question. Thanks.
1 1/2" nut and 1 5/8" nut I think.
 
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1 1/2" nut and 1 5/8" nut I think.
I thought it has to do with the profile of the neck, not the width at the nut. Profile, as if you removed a fret then put a saw into the opening and just started cutting. Then you look at the shape of the sawcut you just made -- some shapes are called C, some D, some U, etc., and you also note the amount of wood from the fretboard to the back of the neck -- medium amount, slim, etc.

Oh man, my grown up words are failing me today. A little help here?