G&L Club Part 7

[Holdsg]

I’ve dealt with a glossy a few different ways.
Both work well t make a glossy neck satiny.

One is scotch brite pad, the green works well, about five minutes of work takes the shine off while keeping the finish intact.

second is referred to as the Carl Pedigo finish, which entails sanding down the neck to bare wood. Replacing with either 1) an oil/wax blend. I have successfully used Howard’s orange oil and then Howard’s Feed and Wax. Or 2) True Oil. Which will put its own kinda satin poly-like finish back on top, which can be as thick as you want depending on the number of coats applied.

You can either tape off the areas you don’t want to change, or free hand it. I’ve done that both ways. Most people would suggest removing the neck before doing this. But I’ve also used the scotch brite pad while neck was still on.

 

[gbrooding]

I have vints on my black Wunkay.
I love the feel and tone it gets me.
Any bass I custom/special order from here on out will have them.

Hey @dedpool1052 , can you tell me more about the Vintage Fret Wire? Interested in what you like about it on your L-1000?

 

[dedpool1052]

Hey @dedpool1052 , can you tell me more about the Vintage Fret Wire? Interested in what you like about it on your L-1000?

The vintage frets are .043"H x .080"W compared to the standard "medium-jumbo" at .057"H x .110"W
The action feels much tighter, with a more, "organic" quality to the tone.
The feel is so comfortable and natural.

 

[dedpool1052]

Also, combined with the neck profile,
1-5/8" nut width & 9.5" radius,
It's the only neck that feels closest to my '99 Fender.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

I’ve dealt with a glossy a few different ways.
Both work well t make a glossy neck satiny.

One is scotch brite pad, the green works well, about five minutes of work takes the shine off while keeping the finish intact.

second is referred to as the Carl Pedigo finish, which entails sanding down the neck to bare wood. Replacing with either 1) an oil/wax blend. I have successfully used Howard’s orange oil and then Howard’s Feed and Wax. Or 2) True Oil. Which will put its own kinda satin poly-like finish back on top, which can be as thick as you want depending on the number of coats applied.

You can either tape off the areas you don’t want to change, or free hand it. I’ve done that both ways. Most people would suggest removing the neck before doing this. But I’ve also used the scotch brite pad while neck was still on.

I used to use the scotch brite, but found it to be more aggressive than needed to get the job done. It also clogs, so watch out for that if you go that route.
The melamine doesn't clog, and removes less material. It is like 3000 grit sandpaper .

The strip and true oil also works great.
It is more tedious and time consuming and is a one way trip.

More than one way to achieve the goal

 

[/\/\3phist0]

The vintage frets are .043"H x .080"W compared to the standard "medium-jumbo" at .057"H x .110"W
The action feels much tighter, with a more, "organic" quality to the tone.
The feel is so comfortable and natural.

This page has common fret sizes.
Invalid Link Removed

 

[gbrooding]

The vintage frets are .043"H x .080"W compared to the standard "medium-jumbo" at .057"H x .110"W
The action feels much tighter, with a more, "organic" quality to the tone.
The feel is so comfortable and natural.

So are medium-jumbo's on the old L-1000s?

 

[dedpool1052]

So are medium-jumbo's on the old L-1000s?

I don't believe so, at least not the medium-jumbos they've been using.
I recall the old ads refering to them as "large frets"

 

[/\/\3phist0]

So are medium-jumbo's on the old L-1000s?

They were low n wide similar to Gibson's .
Close to the 6130 (106x36)
Personally, I like the 6105 (.096"w X .047 h)
Taller and only slightly wider than the vintage. Smaller contact point with the string due to the profile shape.

 

[Mike C.]

Gigbag recommendations for L2K?

I have used the Gator Transit bass gigbag with my L2K, SB1 and JB. Nice adjustable cushioning on the interior and decent sized pockets on the exterior. Price is reasonable too!

 

[richwag]

Have you tweaked the pickup heights to get the balance between the two exactly how you want it?

I recently bought a used BB424, so another PJ with a big tone. It has a master volume and a toggle switch. I immediately recognised that the two pickups together sounded better than either pickup alone, but it was only after a while, when I noticed that one pickup is much higher than the other, that I realised that the heights had been chosen to fine-tune the tone of the two pickups combined. When going from neck to bridge, or vice versa, the volume sounds out of balance, but blended together they sound fantastic. So the toggle lives on the middle position and I could happily live without it.

I think that's the best sound of an SB-2 also. I replaced my dual volumes with a pan control and I'm most often balanced. But there are a few times when I go full split-P too. But I find the split P almost too much by itself though. It's so thick and needs something to lighten it up.

I also find, that adding just a bit more bridge really brings out the snarl in the SB-2. But if you took away the pan, I'd be totally fine with both pickups on. (I have a tone control too).

Curious, how close to the strings are most people running their bridge pickups? I have my bridge pickup super high. That snarl thing I was talking about ;-)

 

[richwag]

So, I traded with a fellow Talkbasser for a very cool SB-2T that I really like except for the gloss clear finish on the neck. Sticky finger syndrome! I LOVE my Kiloton which has the satin finish and would like to get the SB similarly feeling.

I've watched lots of YouTube vids about doing it and I'm not afraid to take paper/steel wool to neck but would love to hear the thoughts of any of you who have done likewise. Best method? Results? My only concern is the line between the headstock and the neck. Did you just tape it off and let it be? Or is there some other technique to blend the different finishes?

Thanks for the advice!

I've stripped all my G&L necks and refinished them using gun stock oil (same as EBMM basses). They've all turned out great too. The nice thing is it's so easy to refresh the finish if needed. And of course no glossy neck. If you want go super slippery, you can also apply their wax.

I use scotch bright foam sanding pads and start with a pretty aggressive grit actually. Maybe around 80? Then just progressively move up to around a 320. A light touch and patience is important. Removing the finish will take quite some time.

I put some masking tape at the neck/headstock junction where I want to keep the original finish. I've also taped off the edge of the fretboard on one but didn't on the other ones.

Believe me, once you get through the finish you'd have to work really, really hard to remove much wood from the neck. Once, I figured this out, I wasn't worried about doing this.

You can put as many coats of gun stock oil as you want though the more you use the more "glossy" it gets. I use 0000 steel wool to smooth between coats.

I can post some pictures of mine if you'd like to see it.

Here's the video I followed:

 

[dwellers]

I've stripped all my G&L necks and refinished them using gun stock oil (same as EBMM basses). They've all turned out great too. The nice thing is it's so easy to refresh the finish if needed. And of course no glossy neck. If you want go super slippery, you can also apply their wax.

I use scotch bright foam sanding pads and start with a pretty aggressive grit actually. Maybe around 80? Then just progressively move up to around a 320. A light touch and patience is important. Removing the finish will take quite some time.

I put some masking tape at the neck/headstock junction where I want to keep the original finish. I've also taped off the edge of the fretboard on one but didn't on the other ones.

Believe me, once you get through the finish you'd have to work really, really hard to remove much wood from the neck. Once, I figured this out, I wasn't worried about doing this.

You can put as many coats of gun stock oil as you want though the more you use the more "glossy" it gets. I use 0000 steel wool to smooth between coats.

I can post some pictures of mine if you'd like to see it.

Here's the video I followed:

This is a great video. Thank you. I think I may start with the easiest/lightest approach with the magic eraser. If that does the trick, great. If not, then I'll move to scotch brite pads and progressively towards refinish. As it stands, Tru-Oil is really hard to find now. Not in stock at the manufacturer or Amazon. Haven't searched extensively but I'm guessing that with people locked up, refinishing necks and gun stocks is a good diversion.

Question: did you do the wax coat? Not sure what the benefit of that is except to seal it? Does it make it more slippery? I'm really looking to mimic the G&L satin finish on my K'ton.

Thanks for the tips!

 

[tony caskey]

I’m pretty much getting to the point if it is not a Lull then I’m playing a G&L.

G&L will put together anything they build in any configuration, i want a jazz with SB2 pickups "set lefty" and wired series both pickups on, three nobs volume, treble roll off, bass roll off{just like L-1000} # 12 neck 9.5 radius, basswood body, roasted maple neck with pearl block inlays

 

[NOLA Bass]

I use a Mono single or double.

 

[Jim C]

My JB is very secure in a Mono Vertigo gig bag.
A little heavy but tons of protection.

 

[dwellers]

This is a great video. Thank you. I think I may start with the easiest/lightest approach with the magic eraser. If that does the trick, great. If not, then I'll move to scotch brite pads and progressively towards refinish. As it stands, Tru-Oil is really hard to find now. Not in stock at the manufacturer or Amazon. Haven't searched extensively but I'm guessing that with people locked up, refinishing necks and gun stocks is a good diversion.

Question: did you do the wax coat? Not sure what the benefit of that is except to seal it? Does it make it more slippery? I'm really looking to mimic the G&L satin finish on my K'ton.

Thanks for the tips!

So, started by taping up the sides just under the fret markers and the top near the headstock and the base of the neck. Although the neck is a single piece of maple, I wanted to see if I could tell the difference between the old finish and the new.

I tried using magic eraser (original) and it did nothing. Literally. I then moved to the green scotch write pad and very quickly saw the results. Took off the top most layer of finish leaving a really pretty looking, dull wood. I finished it off with some 0000 steel wool, used a little Dunlop 65 cleaner and i couldn't be happier. I think it looks great and I like the faint line making it look like the fingerboard is different than the neck. And I can't feel where the headstock finish has a bump of any kind.

Question: should I use the Tru Oil now on the neck? I have some on order...should be a week or two out. Tru Oil wax too?

Thanks again for all the tips!

 

[richwag]

This is a great video. Thank you. I think I may start with the easiest/lightest approach with the magic eraser. If that does the trick, great. If not, then I'll move to scotch brite pads and progressively towards refinish. As it stands, Tru-Oil is really hard to find now. Not in stock at the manufacturer or Amazon. Haven't searched extensively but I'm guessing that with people locked up, refinishing necks and gun stocks is a good diversion.

Question: did you do the wax coat? Not sure what the benefit of that is except to seal it? Does it make it more slippery? I'm really looking to mimic the G&L satin finish on my K'ton.

Thanks for the tips!

Wow, I had no idea Tru Oil would be so hard to find. The good thing is it last a long time. I've done four basses and still have 2/3 bottle.

I've tried the wax coat and it is indeed super slippery. A light coat of gun stock oil and a buffing with 0000 steel wool is probably more what you're looking for.

 

[richwag]

So, started by taping up the sides just under the fret markers and the top near the headstock and the base of the neck. Although the neck is a single piece of maple, I wanted to see if I could tell the difference between the old finish and the new.

I tried using magic eraser (original) and it did nothing. Literally. I then moved to the green scotch write pad and very quickly saw the results. Took off the top most layer of finish leaving a really pretty looking, dull wood. I finished it off with some 0000 steel wool, used a little Dunlop 65 cleaner and i couldn't be happier. I think it looks great and I like the faint line making it look like the fingerboard is different than the neck. And I can't feel where the headstock finish has a bump of any kind.

Question: should I use the Tru Oil now on the neck? I have some on order...should be a week or two out. Tru Oil wax too?

Thanks again for all the tips!

Congrats! I don't know why any bass or guitar comes with a glossy finish on a neck. Get a little moisture on your hands and it's suddenly crazy sticky.

I don't know if people Tru Oil over other finishes? I've never tried it. They could probably tell you if it's ok to use that way. I'm guessing the wax would work over any finish.

 

[jcburn]

Congrats! I don't know why any bass or guitar comes with a glossy finish on a neck. Get a little moisture on your hands and it's suddenly crazy sticky.

I don't know if people Tru Oil over other finishes? I've never tried it. They could probably tell you if it's ok to use that way. I'm guessing the wax would work over any finish.

I prefer gloss neck. I don't dislike satin, but I do dislike wax\oil ala Ernie Ball, Warwick etc.
I sweat a lot when I play. The gloss necks just feel better. The satin for some reason to me is the finish that gets sticky, and wax\oil is worse (plus gets dirty looking).
I guess my point is different strokes for different folks. Satin feels great to me until I sweat, then it gets stickier than gloss. But I also realise that for a lot of people the satin finish is preference.