Hello, and thanks for any advice. I've checked the G&L store, for the past 5 to 6 months, Reverb, E Bay, around the internet, and I just cant seem to find a G&L standard 5 string saddlelock bridge for my build to order JB5. G&L knows that I'm interested in obtaining one. Other than 1 from Japan, that's listed on ebay, for an L2500, that I'm not quite sure about, or how long it's been listed, I've got nothing. Thanks again for any advice, and hope 2025 is a fantastic year for everyone on Talkbass.
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G&L JB 5 SADDLELOCK BRIDGE REPLACEMENT
- Thread starter tongue hairdo
- Start date
Not the answer you are after, but what is the issue with your existing bridge? Curious what would cause you to need a full replacement.
Or to need one from G&L when there are high(er) quality (and easily obtainable) options available?
G&L bridges are a pretty specific design. It is not quite like swapping a bridge on a Fender (several direct fit designs available from a variety of manufacturers). G&L bridges have a channel routed under the bridge that the bridge sits into. You could mod for a different one, but I would not want to.
It's not that easy. The channel routed under the bridge is wider than most replacement bridges with the same 17mm spacing. You could put a wider-spaced bridge on it and hope you can adjust the strings narrow enough to not hang off the edges of the neck - maybe. I've owned all the big-name bridges and there's nothing wrong with the quality of G&L bridge. Maybe you prefer other features, but that's not "better quality".
To the OP: what's wrong with the bridge you currently have? Also, the JB5 and L2500 use the exact same bridge. There's nothing different about them, so don't be put off by one sold as an "L2500" bridge. Ordering from Japan might put me off, but not the description.
Yeah, that was me too, I geeked and checked into it, apparently G&L is showing SOLD OUT.......
Thanks to everyone for all the help. I lent my bass to a friend, to try out, before deciding to buy, long story short, he wanted to try out his strings on the bass, somehow he stripped the saddle lock on the side of the bridge, by using the wrong hex key, that's his story. He said he'd cover the replacement parts, and any labor within reason. You know that feeling in your gut, when you know your about to make a mistake, but you disregard that gut feeling, because you think it will turn out differently? That's what this was. Lesson learned the hard way. Thanks again to all for your kindness, and your responses.
If just the hex is stripped out, maybe you can get the old one out, with a small flat blade screwdriver, or a small easy out,
and take the little grub to the hardware store to find a match
And if it’s not the grub/set screw but the threads in the bridge and you can’t find replacement bridge you should be able to find a Helicoil type kit and repair the threads. A machine shop or auto repair place might have the thread repair tools and could do it for you if you don’t want to DIY.
If just the hex is stripped out, maybe you can get the old one out, with a small flat blade screwdriver, or a small easy out,
and take the little grub to the hardware store to find a match
I'll 2nd this approach. This sounds like a relatively easy fix. Not something worth replacing the whole bridge over.
There are "EasyOuts" and other devices for extracting stripped hardware, but they may be too large.
You could order some reverse-cut drill bits and carefully drill into the center of the hex screw (with the drill on reverse). Usually that will "bite" enough that it will back out the screw, unless it is ungodly tight.
Worst case, you could drill the screw out altogether and re-tap the hole. I would try to use that as a last resort though.
Don't sweat replacing that screw, I totally can't tell the difference with one missing.
I have a hard time seeing how the described scenario would lead to "I better buy a whole new bridge!" as the best response.
I've owned a bunch of G&Ls and, like the last few posters have said, I don't see that set screw mattering a whole lot, whether it's in there or not.
I've owned a bunch of G&Ls and, like the last few posters have said, I don't see that set screw mattering a whole lot, whether it's in there or not.
You guys but Leo himself designed the screw. Are you insinuating he didn’t get it right the first time he designed his third bridge? 
Kidding. OP take that screw out and slam dunk it into the garbage can. The hardware store should have an exact replacement for a dime.
Kidding. OP take that screw out and slam dunk it into the garbage can. The hardware store should have an exact replacement for a dime.
Thanks again to everyone for their helpful replies. I feel a lot better knowing that this can be dealt with on a few levels. Thanks again, I'll let you know what happens. Everyone have a safe and happy new year.
I'm sure the G&L shop will have them restocked. They do make basses every day with them.
At least he's taking care of it... hopefully, it works out. Thanks for explanation, too.
Reviving the thread to ask a little doubt I have. I installed a Fender Himass on my Grabber copy bass and the resonance and even output of my bass while unplugged has gone up significantly, sadly leaving my G&L L2000 sounding a bit anemic both plugged and unplugged in comparison, would installing a Himass in my G&L L2000 be possible?
