The original version of this is here:
http://www.bassesbyleo.com/l2500_bridge_mod.html
I made this modification to my L-2500 over the weekend and wanted to pass along a few things I learned.
1) I used 2" long 6-32 machine screws and did not have to trim them at all. The original link (above) says he ended up with screws that were 1 9/16". I figured that meant I could use 1 1/2", as that would only be 1/16" shorter. Well, 1 1/2" screws didn't even touch the back of the 1/4" threaded spacers. I bought 2" thinking they would be overkill and I'd just trim to length. But, as I said, there turned out to be no need.
2) It took me a long time to get this mod done because I first spent a bunch of time trying to find threaded spacers that were already slotted for a screwdriver, and couldn't. So I procrastinated even longer because I was without an air compressor to run my air cutoff tool, and I didn't have a Dremel tool. I finally ordered the threaded spacers from McMaster-Carr and bought a Dremel and slotted the spacers. I thought I would need the "Thin" cutting wheels, but they made slots that were too thin. I used the regular Dremel cutting wheel and the slots are the perfect size for a medium-sized slotted screwdriver.
3) When I finally assembled it all, it turns out I don't think I needed to slot the spacers at all. I put each one in and held it with my fingertip as I screwed the screw in. Once it started to get tight, the spacer got enough friction from its seat that I was able to tighten the screw firmly without having to hold the spacer with a slotted screwdriver.
All just FYI.
Also, FWIW, I recently took the bridge off my G&L SB-2 (a 4-string bass) and put it back on and I noted to myself that it actually uses something like 6 screws to hold it on. It has the same style of bridge as the L-2500, but it does not allow for thru-body stringing, and it has screws through the bridge into the body in all the same spots where I just put machine screws through the L-2500 bridge.
I just thought it was kinda funny that G&L would think it necessary to use so many screws to hold a 4-string bridge on and then only use 2 on a bridge that does allow top-loading on a 5-string. I wonder if some designer actually planned that users would do this mod if they intended to top load their strings.
Oh, and I got it restrung and set the intonation - it was way off with TI flats from where it had been setup with Dunlop rounds. But, I have not actually played it yet, so I cannot coment on whether this mod makes any difference to tone or sustain.
And here are some pics of the final product.
http://www.bassesbyleo.com/l2500_bridge_mod.html
I made this modification to my L-2500 over the weekend and wanted to pass along a few things I learned.
1) I used 2" long 6-32 machine screws and did not have to trim them at all. The original link (above) says he ended up with screws that were 1 9/16". I figured that meant I could use 1 1/2", as that would only be 1/16" shorter. Well, 1 1/2" screws didn't even touch the back of the 1/4" threaded spacers. I bought 2" thinking they would be overkill and I'd just trim to length. But, as I said, there turned out to be no need.
2) It took me a long time to get this mod done because I first spent a bunch of time trying to find threaded spacers that were already slotted for a screwdriver, and couldn't. So I procrastinated even longer because I was without an air compressor to run my air cutoff tool, and I didn't have a Dremel tool. I finally ordered the threaded spacers from McMaster-Carr and bought a Dremel and slotted the spacers. I thought I would need the "Thin" cutting wheels, but they made slots that were too thin. I used the regular Dremel cutting wheel and the slots are the perfect size for a medium-sized slotted screwdriver.
3) When I finally assembled it all, it turns out I don't think I needed to slot the spacers at all. I put each one in and held it with my fingertip as I screwed the screw in. Once it started to get tight, the spacer got enough friction from its seat that I was able to tighten the screw firmly without having to hold the spacer with a slotted screwdriver.
All just FYI.
Also, FWIW, I recently took the bridge off my G&L SB-2 (a 4-string bass) and put it back on and I noted to myself that it actually uses something like 6 screws to hold it on. It has the same style of bridge as the L-2500, but it does not allow for thru-body stringing, and it has screws through the bridge into the body in all the same spots where I just put machine screws through the L-2500 bridge.
I just thought it was kinda funny that G&L would think it necessary to use so many screws to hold a 4-string bridge on and then only use 2 on a bridge that does allow top-loading on a 5-string. I wonder if some designer actually planned that users would do this mod if they intended to top load their strings.
Oh, and I got it restrung and set the intonation - it was way off with TI flats from where it had been setup with Dunlop rounds. But, I have not actually played it yet, so I cannot coment on whether this mod makes any difference to tone or sustain.
And here are some pics of the final product.
.
