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G&L L-2500 bridge mod

I purchased mine from the original owner in Indiana, who told me he purchased it new in Chicago in December of 1997.
So I guess there were two or more built like this, not just the one I have.
Also just because the registry only list one, maybe my guy never registered the one I have
Duke
I bought mine brand new in Spring of ‘97 even though it was built in ‘96. The bass could have sat for 6-9 months, especially being a fretless. The store would have had to rely on local sales about 99% of the time back then, so if no one in town was looking for a fretless 5…

Not a lot of people know about the registry. I think YOU should register it, just make certain of the date codes.
Myself and @Glazenn have been sort of trying to keep lab eye out for these early 4+1 models, and we’ve been sharing notes from time to time. Neither of us have seen two alike. It is very possible that the CL green swirl posted above is a 3+2 headstock version, though I believe it would be with that SN.

[edit] I just checked the registry, and there are 2 green swirl/ebony L2500’s registered with CL serial numbers, one doesn’t mention of it is fret less or not.
The owner of the one @Glazenn posted is from New Brunswick, the other is in New Orleans I’m guessing, judging by the email address posted…
I just searched Green Swirl and Ebony. I didn’t search with a “fretless” filter.
 
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My 99 has this mod and it works great. After seeing the horror of the two screws failing on an L2500 in another thread, thankfully not mine, I wouldn’t have it any other way.

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Why? I bought it used and it came with strings going thru the bridge. But in my mind I couldn't look at 5 empty holes and only 2 screws holding the bridge down. Yeah, I'd agree that stringing thru the body would alleviate that concern. But I'd also seen B string where (depending upon the type/manuf) you have to pull the saddles way back to get proper intonation. At which point a B string strung thru the body and over the saddle puts a tight bend radius put on the string. All that being said... Mine doesn't have that issue. I just prefer the screws vs. the holes.
 
I have an L2500 and M2500. Both are like this. I did the L2500 today and it only took 10 minutes as I just loosened the strings (vice remove them). Only one hole needed cleaned out (5/64 bit). All went together easily. No need to modify the insert as you can hold it with your fingertip until friction takes over. The interesting thing with this one is I heard creaking going on as I was tightening the screws. The first one didn't do that. So I went back and verified torque on the original 2 screws as well. I'm done here. I only posted for those who may be in the same saturation and aren't aware of the mod or may be intimidated by it. Using the parts I showed - it was easy
 
But I'd also seen B string where (depending upon the type/manuf) you have to pull the saddles way back to get proper intonation. At which point a B string strung thru the body and over the saddle puts a tight bend radius put on the string. All that being said... Mine doesn't have that issue. I just prefer the screws vs. the holes.

No matter what, the string is going to have a much sharper bend at the tuner shaft.
So also count me as someone that doesn't get this mod...I've had lots of G&L's over the decades, still do. If a bass has string thru body I'm always going to use it.
 
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