If you have both of the StewMac control cavity templates you can use the flat one for routing the recess to make a template to use for making your own covers.
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That’s what I did with mine. Traced around the inside of the template on MDF and cut it out and sanded until it fit the way I wanted. Now I usually make covers out of thin, stained plywood although you could used whatever will run through the router.
Tonight I did just a few things, but hopefully will result in me getting the headstock cut down, and laminated with two new wings.
I sanded down my bridge area, but it needs more filler.
I also sanded and filled the tuner holes I doweled.
This bass came with a neck joint plate, but I want to try my hand at inlaying neck screw ferrules into the body.
To start, I filled in the old screw holes with dowels, so my Forstner bit, will not wobble, when drilling into the body.
Once this dries, I will basically drill out the inlay for the fertile, then re-drill the holes, for the screws.
The only issue I foresee, is I might have to grind the tips off these screws, as they might be a bit long for the two pieces of wood. Last thing I want, are the screws coming through the fretboard!
Lastly, my neck trough Spector project arrived from Kiesel!
I sanded down my bridge area, but it needs more filler.
I also sanded and filled the tuner holes I doweled.
This bass came with a neck joint plate, but I want to try my hand at inlaying neck screw ferrules into the body.
To start, I filled in the old screw holes with dowels, so my Forstner bit, will not wobble, when drilling into the body.
Once this dries, I will basically drill out the inlay for the fertile, then re-drill the holes, for the screws.
The only issue I foresee, is I might have to grind the tips off these screws, as they might be a bit long for the two pieces of wood. Last thing I want, are the screws coming through the fretboard!
Lastly, my neck trough Spector project arrived from Kiesel!
Today, I got my neck through Spector body pieces planed, edged, and glued. After they dry, my dad is going to rip the piece in two, and plane the two pieces flat.
I also drilled the inserts for my neck joint ferrules.
The 5/8” Forstner bit is a tad larger than the ferrules, but Stew Mac claims that after paint, the loose ferrules will fit perfectly. God, I hope they’re right, because they seem pretty loose...
My next concern is the fastener length, in relation to the thickness of the neck. I’m afraid the fasteners (particularly the front fasteners, as they are counter sunk 1/8” deeper than the back ones) will go right through the fingerboard.
I’m thinking about grinding off the tips of the fasteners. Your thoughts?
I also drilled the inserts for my neck joint ferrules.
The 5/8” Forstner bit is a tad larger than the ferrules, but Stew Mac claims that after paint, the loose ferrules will fit perfectly. God, I hope they’re right, because they seem pretty loose...
My next concern is the fastener length, in relation to the thickness of the neck. I’m afraid the fasteners (particularly the front fasteners, as they are counter sunk 1/8” deeper than the back ones) will go right through the fingerboard.
I’m thinking about grinding off the tips of the fasteners. Your thoughts?
Personally, I wouldn't use those stewmac screws. They aren't very strong. I've broken more than one. That's why I changed to the stainless screws.
But if you need to use them, yeah grind the tips off.
I'd just opt for shorter stronger screws rather than grinding these ones down. You can find better ones that won't be flimsy/break after much use.
In relation to paint filling that massive gap between the ferrules & its walls, it's going to take a lot of coats built up to keep them in place. That's just my observation.
In relation to paint filling that massive gap between the ferrules & its walls, it's going to take a lot of coats built up to keep them in place. That's just my observation.
I will use the screws I have. If they suck, I still have the original screws.
I am concerned about the paint needed to snug these ferrules up, but I will act on faith.
Today I cut off the excess of my headstock to get it ready to mate with new wings.
First, I came up with this idea, to sit square against my chop saw fence. I then discovered that the template was too long to fit under my saw.
I then tried this. Same problem.
I then chopped the excess of the headstock, to shorten it, and used my trusty MDF blocks.
Gone!
The other side!
Seeing the template against the neck, you can see what I need to add.
I was really happy with how even I got these two cuts.
First, I came up with this idea, to sit square against my chop saw fence. I then discovered that the template was too long to fit under my saw.
I then tried this. Same problem.
I then chopped the excess of the headstock, to shorten it, and used my trusty MDF blocks.
Gone!
The other side!
Seeing the template against the neck, you can see what I need to add.
I was really happy with how even I got these two cuts.
Tonight I tried fitting the screws I grinded shorter. They are still a tad too long, especially the front ones. I will have to visit the grinder tomorrow.
I also got my headstock wings glued.
Ready to be attached.
Glued! I know. I need more and better clamps. For these small pieces, they work fine. The metal square was used to flatten the top right joint, as it tended to creep out of flat.
I also got my headstock wings glued.
Ready to be attached.
Glued! I know. I need more and better clamps. For these small pieces, they work fine. The metal square was used to flatten the top right joint, as it tended to creep out of flat.
Tonight, I removed my clamps to assess my glue job. It looks fairly good.
I then proceeded to sand down the headstock to get everything flat.
I then got everything lined up, and affixed my headstock template. Next time you see her, she will be shaped, and ready for tuners.
I also got my front screws attached, but I’m really unhappy with these 5/8” holes.
Then, for ***** and giggles, I wondered if these ferrules were the same diameter as tuner ferrules...
They are! Damnit. I have a 9/16” Forstner bit I’ve used at my dad’s house, for tuners, and they fit perfectly.
I think I’m going to dowel the holes, and re-drill. The gaps are too big for my liking.
Regardless of this setback, I am excited to see this thing taking real shape!
I then proceeded to sand down the headstock to get everything flat.
I then got everything lined up, and affixed my headstock template. Next time you see her, she will be shaped, and ready for tuners.
I also got my front screws attached, but I’m really unhappy with these 5/8” holes.
Then, for ***** and giggles, I wondered if these ferrules were the same diameter as tuner ferrules...
They are! Damnit. I have a 9/16” Forstner bit I’ve used at my dad’s house, for tuners, and they fit perfectly.
I think I’m going to dowel the holes, and re-drill. The gaps are too big for my liking.
Regardless of this setback, I am excited to see this thing taking real shape!
Maybe it’s just the perspective of the picture, but the headstock looks massive.
I will post a pic, after I remove the template, and you can decide.
Here is what I was going for...
Tonight I made big strides on getting the headstock done.
After table saw and drill press, for initial pilot holes.
After routing
After shaping the back.
I also shaved the neck heel. It needs more, but I’m getting there.
“Hey look! It’s rock and roll!”
After table saw and drill press, for initial pilot holes.
After routing
After shaping the back.
I also shaved the neck heel. It needs more, but I’m getting there.
“Hey look! It’s rock and roll!”
You really nailed the transitions between the two woods near the back of the nut area. Nice work!
Thanks! I thought I was going to screw it up, forcing me to epoxy and sand it. Not this time!
