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Genz Benz Shuttle 6.0 volume question

All I know is ( as far as Volume knobs go ), all the way to the left, you get no volume, all the way to the right, you get told to turn down, and/or blow something up. Everything inbetween is pretty subjective. ;) :D :hiding:
 
All I know is ( as far as Volume knobs go ), all the way to the left, you get no volume, all the way to the right, you get told to turn down, and/or blow something up. Everything inbetween is pretty subjective. ;) :D :hiding:

:D Another way to state that is... turn it up until it is loud enough for your needs. If you do that and it sucks, then buy another amp. If you do that and it doesn't suck, you are good to go:cool: Of course, that is assuming you know the basics of EQ, input gain, and have technique that at least in some ways transmits something worth amplifying!
 
:D Another way to state that is... turn it up until it is loud enough for your needs. If you do that and it sucks, then buy another amp. If you do that and it doesn't suck, you are good to go:cool: Of course, that is assuming you know the basics of EQ, input gain, and have technique that at least in some ways transmits something worth amplifying!

Excellent ! Should be the last thing you read in the manual when purchasing a new amp !
 
I've been using my Shuttle 6.0 since they first hit the stores. If anyone has read any of my previous posts, I play in a VERY loud rock band. At first, it seemed to not have enough volume for my needs, and for well over a year, I was using it with a poweramp for larger gigs, and still do on occasion. In the last few months, I started to really push this little sucker and realized it CAN get me through most of my gigs, even the EXTREMELY loud rock gigs with an AE410. Taking the wheels off of the AE410 helped immensely with low end feel and reproduction, and keeps me from cranking the bass EQ and clipping. I run the preamp gain and volume at 3 o'clock and the master around 12-2 oclock. I've finally realized it's OK for this head to stay lit up while playing! I've even played outside shows with no PA support and the ae410 with no problems keeping up.
I had a Shuttle 9.0 for a little while and although it did sound more full, the tone was just slightly off from that 6.0 'cutting, biting, gritty' tone that I love, so it had to go. Besides, I'd clip the 9.0 just as often as the 6.0, and it really didn't get me any 'noticeably' louder, just more overall full sounding. Both amps are fantastic pieces of equipment. Oh, did I mention, all of this is coming from a 'lead sled sounds better' believer. The 6.0 and 9.0 are fantastic works of engineering. Take it from me, unless you set it up correctly, and understand the whole clipping lights, etc, you'll never know the full potential of these amps.
 
I run my Shuttle 6.0 into an SLT 112T and NEOX 112T, with volume-related controls around noon, and I've yet to see the clip light come on. The SLT cab alone didn't give me enough oomph, so I asked Jeff Genzler what he thought of adding the NEO. He said the NEO was an excellent choice and to go with a SLT extension cab only if space was my prime consideration. I have no doubt that if I ran two NEOX 112T's or the NEOX 212T, the low end would be amazing from such small cabs.

I'll add that if you think your Shuttle isn't loud enough, get a compressor -- I use the EBS Multicomp -- and you'll be surprised by the apparent rise in volume that it produces.
 
Here's something else for you guys with larger cabinets to try.

Rather than starting out using the Low Freq eq control, first try engaging the LF Extend switch. This allows you to take advantage of a different shape/type of filter response that extends the LF response of the amp with a filter that compliments the response of a larger cabinet. Then, use the low eq to taste. The results will be a little deeper, rounder, and also tighter low end.

+1

I have found this to be so when using two Epifani t210 cabs. The 2x210 cabs (1 NYC and 1 UL S1) deliver noticeably more low end that my Epifani UL410 S1.

I typically do run the LF extend engaged and modify the EQ to suit the room. :D
 
I have been using my 6.0 on a 4 ohm 1212L .. and I have not yet had a situation where I could not be heard, even outdoors.. and I play in a 8 piece 4-6 singer band. I am about to pull the trigger on a Avatar B212 that I saw in a pawnshop for $250 so I can leave it at my church as the Ampeg B115 they were using has seen better days. I figure if I just get the cab then it will be less likely that it will get used by too many people. One of the reasons I decide to even do this is so I can get more use out of the 6.0. I keep my Schro at home... so I can practice and use it on gigs.. I dont want to have to sclepp it to church on Sundays and when we rehearse there.. I am amazed at how versatile the 6.0 is.. it still blows me away..
 
Ignorant post alert...

I have a ShuttleMax 12.0 and love it. I can twiddle knobs to my heart's content and get great sound with a variety of cabs. Even so, I'm a little confused by the Gain vs. Volume on the preamp. Do the Gain and Volume controls do the same thing or something different?
 
Ignorant post alert...

I have a ShuttleMax 12.0 and love it. I can twiddle knobs to my heart's content and get great sound with a variety of cabs. Even so, I'm a little confused by the Gain vs. Volume on the preamp. Do the Gain and Volume controls do the same thing or something different?

On the tube channel, the gain is used to dial in the amount of tube grind/warmth distortion, and the volume is used to either boost the signal if you run the gain very low (clean) or cut the signal if you run the gain very high (warmth/overdrive) so that the signal going into the EQ section and the master (used for actual volume) is not either overdriven/distorted or has such a low signal that the signal to noise ration is out of wack (hiss/noise). This is typical of stand-alone tube preamps that have a gain to set the 'tone/feel' of the input signal, and then a volume to control/optimize the input to a power amp, which then has a master volume to set the absolute volume level.

If you want your tone clean on that tube channel, I would cank that volume control all the way up, and then adjust your gain to just below clip as a starting point.

For the FET channel, I assume they have the volume control there so you can use that to balance the output of the FET channel versus the tube, then using the overall master for the absolute volume of the amp. So, for that channel, set the gain to just below clip, and then use the volume to balance the volume of that channel with the volume of the tube channel.

With an FET channel, there is an 'optimum' input gain setting, since solid state preamp distortion is typically pretty nasty... so that clip light is a good way to set the input gain. For the tube pre, its more of an incremental level of 'pleasant' tube warmth, so it is best to ignore the clip light on that channel and use your ears, then using the volume to adjust to signal down or up a bit depending on the gain setting. Pretty nice!
 
On the tube channel, the gain is used to dial in the amount of tube grind/warmth distortion, and the volume is used to either boost the signal if you run the gain very low (clean) or cut the signal if you run the gain very high (warmth/overdrive) so that the signal going into the EQ section and the master (used for actual volume) is not either overdriven/distorted or has such a low signal that the signal to noise ration is out of wack (hiss/noise). This is typical of stand-alone tube preamps that have a gain to set the 'tone/feel' of the input signal, and then a volume to control/optimize the input to a power amp, which then has a master volume to set the absolute volume level.

If you want your tone clean on that tube channel, I would cank that volume control all the way up, and then adjust your gain to just below clip as a starting point.

For the FET channel, I assume they have the volume control there so you can use that to balance the output of the FET channel versus the tube, then using the overall master for the absolute volume of the amp. So, for that channel, set the gain to just below clip, and then use the volume to balance the volume of that channel with the volume of the tube channel.

With an FET channel, there is an 'optimum' input gain setting, since solid state preamp distortion is typically pretty nasty... so that clip light is a good way to set the input gain. For the tube pre, its more of an incremental level of 'pleasant' tube warmth, so it is best to ignore the clip light on that channel and use your ears, then using the volume to adjust to signal down or up a bit depending on the gain setting. Pretty nice!

That's helpful, thanks. I use my ears, but can't help seeing all the settings and lights when I change things ;). I was just curious about the purpose of those controls, and this helps.
 
That's helpful, thanks. I use my ears, but can't help seeing all the settings and lights when I change things ;). I was just curious about the purpose of those controls, and this helps.

The key is to NEVER use a gain control as a 'volume' control with any amp. For FET amps, use the gain to optimize the input signal based on the output level of your bass for signal to noise (i.e., run just below clip). For a tube pre, use that input gain as more of a tone control than a volume control, dialing in the amount of 'give and grit' you like.

That secondary volume control is nice on multiple channel amps (the TC RH450 has this design also), and is great for balancing channels prior to feeding into the overall master, or dialing down extremely hot input on a tube channel is you like the tone cranked to 11 regarding tube warmth and overdrive.