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Genz Benz Streamliner Tube Rolling

#281
I've played a number of live gigs with the new tubes in my STM-900 now, and have really gotten a good feel for the amp in different environments since swapping them out. I feel like a kid at Christmas everytime I play now, because I'm so pleased with the amp's sound with the NOS JAN Philips 5751 in V1, and a NOS RCA 7025 in V2 & V3. I used to get frustrated at gigs before tube swapping, because it was usually very difficult to get any clarity in my sound when sitting in a full band mix. Now it's perfect, and I couldn't ask for anything better. My amp sounds amazing through my Genz-Benz Uber 410 since putting those tubes in.
 
#286
Im still running my Streamliner with stock tubes and loving it.. I was using my SM9.2 for a few months but heading back out on the road with the streamliner in the light rack this week... Will be in Dallas tomorrow and Houston on Saturday..Will be fun to have the streamliner into my Uber 115s again for some deep thump. Will post some photos when i get back in nest week.
 
#287
I have thought about trying a tube swap but wont do it just yet, I find this amp very responsive compared to my PF500, if I dig in it does get very bassy on E and A strings especially with the gain switch engaged, taking a bit off the bass EQ is cheaper than buying a new tube, I find the tube break up a bit too much at times, I dont like too much distortion, a tube with a bit less would be nice, mine starts to break up around noon, what tube would smooth this out a bit while retaining the warmth and tone ?
 
#288
pablomigraine said:
Any experienced swappers have a recommendation for a tube set that will retain the furry and fat low-end and midrange while perhaps also adding a little clarity and a crisp top end?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I would just try swapping out V3 and leaving V1 alone. I ended with a Mesa 12ax7 in V3 and I heard what your are describing (at least IMO - this is pretty subjective). I also went with a lower gain 5751 in V1 and it was the most noticeable change. Tightened up the low end and to my ear let the mids through a bit more, so I was not fighting this huge bottom end in the mix when the bass was set around 11:00. Of course, you can get similiar results by turning the knobs, but for some reason, some of us here on TB would rather change tubes then turn a knob past the "flat" setting:D.
 
#289
GRAHAM SG1 said:
... I find the tube break up a bit too much at times, I dont like too much distortion, a tube with a bit less would be nice, mine starts to break up around noon, what tube would smooth this out a bit while retaining the warmth and tone ?
Click to expand...

Sounds like you're setting the knobs by eye, rather than by ear.

There's nothing magic about having the gain at noon. Why not simply turn it down until you have less distortion? Or disengage the boost?

One of the fantastic things about this amp, is the range of level adjustments you can make on all three volume knobs, without unwanted noise or tone suck...
 
#290
GRAHAM SG1 said:
I find the tube break up a bit too much at times, I dont like too much distortion, a tube with a bit less would be nice, mine starts to break up around noon, what tube would smooth this out a bit while retaining the warmth and tone ?
Click to expand...

The JAN Phillips 5751 is what I just installed in V1. It cost me about $40 shipped from the Tube Depot. It is a brand new NOS tube. It tightened up the bottom end noticeably and since it has 30% less gain than a 12AX7 it will tame some of that early break-up your talking about. The amp still has plenty of gain on tap if you want it, though.
 
#291
steve_rolfeca said:
Sounds like you're setting the knobs by eye, rather than by ear.

There's nothing magic about having the gain at noon. Why not simply turn it down until you have less distortion? Or disengage the boost?

One of the fantastic things about this amp, is the range of level adjustments you can make on all three volume knobs, without unwanted noise or tone suck...
Click to expand...

I have played around with the knobs a lot (!) and usually end up with the gain and volume at noon, sort of a halfway house kind of thing ;)
I would like a bit less break up with gain selected, I love distortion on a guitar but not so much on bass, it always sounds like a raspy fart to me, I love smooth clean and rich bass more :bassist:
I like the tone with the gain switch selected, just not quite as much break up, am I making sense :) .
 
#292
GRAHAM SG1 said:
I have played around with the knobs a lot (!) and usually end up with the gain and volume at noon, sort of a halfway house kind of thing ;)
I would like a bit less break up with gain selected, I love distortion on a guitar but not so much on bass, it always sounds like a raspy fart to me, I love smooth clean and rich bass more :bassist:
I like the tone with the gain switch selected, just not quite as much break up, am I making sense :) .
Click to expand...

Put a 5751 in V1. You will love it.
 
#294
Most informative thread... thanks, guys.

As a new owner of a streamliner 900 (love it!), and being totally new to tube amps (love the sound), forgive the n00b questions:

1) Just how fragile are these tubes? Should I be carrying around spares, like I do for strings? Are these things fragile like light bulbs (filaments)? I don't intend on playing hockey with my amp as a puck or anything, but I do haul it back and forth between home and church twice a week. And I do 4-6 gigs a year on top of that...

2) If one goes out, should I replace them all, or do they have a life expectancy? years? 100/1000/10000 hours of use?

3) If one starts to go, what would it most likely look or sound like - will the little orange glow go away? Would it fail in a safe condition or would the whole preamp just go dead?

4) also is 12ax7-cz same as 12ax7acz? I was looking to buy a set of stock replacements as backups... The 5751 sounds interesting, though.

Just looking for some education to help me with expectations...
 
#295
DarylW said:
Most informative thread... thanks, guys.

As a new owner of a streamliner 900 (love it!), and being totally new to tube amps (love the sound), forgive the n00b questions:

1) Just how fragile are these tubes? Should I be carrying around spares, like I do for strings? Are these things fragile like light bulbs (filaments)? I don't intend on playing hockey with my amp as a puck or anything, but I do haul it back and forth between home and church twice a week. And I do 4-6 gigs a year on top of that...

2) If one goes out, should I replace them all, or do they have a life expectancy? years? 100/1000/10000 hours of use?

3) If one starts to go, what would it most likely look or sound like - will the little orange glow go away? Would it fail in a safe condition or would the whole preamp just go dead?

4) also is 12ax7-cz same as 12ax7acz? I was looking to buy a set of stock replacements as backups... The 5751 sounds interesting, though.

Just looking for some education to help me with expectations...
Click to expand...

1. Not very. Many of us have been doing a lot more giggin and schlepping than that, without any tube failures. Just try not to jar the amp while it's hot, or drop it from the sort of heights that would damage any amp, solid state or otherwise.

It's still smart to carry at least a couple of spares, along with an allen wrench, so you can get the lid off. Modern tubes are not as reliable as they were back in the 50's and 60's, and tube life can vary anywhere from a few months to several years.

2. Nope. Just replace 'em when they fail, or when they start to sound "off".

3. There are various failure modes. Sometimes they go noisy, and you can limp through the rest of the gig. Other times, they flat out fail, and the amp goes dead. The Streamliner won't pass signal, if one of the tubes is missing, so don't expect to be able to finish the gig with a dead tube.

4. No, they're different. That's why they have a different part number. The difference is not going to be chalk and cheese, though. They're all from the same (12AX7) family.
 
#296
steve_rolfeca said:
1. Not very. Many of us have been doing a lot more giggin and schlepping than that, without any tube failures. Just try not to jar the amp while it's hot, or drop it from the sort of heights that would damage any amp, solid state or otherwise.

It's still smart to carry at least a couple of spares, along with an allen wrench, so you can get the lid off. Modern tubes are not as reliable as they were back in the 50's and 60's, and tube life can vary anywhere from a few months to several years.

2. Nope. Just replace 'em when they fail, or when they start to sound "off".

3. There are various failure modes. Sometimes they go noisy, and you can limp through the rest of the gig. Other times, they flat out fail, and the amp goes dead. The Streamliner won't pass signal, if one of the tubes is missing, so don't expect to be able to finish the gig with a dead tube.

4. No, they're different. That's why they have a different part number. The difference is not going to be chalk and cheese, though. They're all from the same (12AX7) family.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I don't have a backup amp and can't afford a dead tube, so I will take your advice. Good reminder to pack the wrench, too. I like the bag, but maybe a pelican 1520(?) is in order...

2nd thought, I could bypass preamp altogether and plug into effects return if I had to, couldn't I? Certainly not a preferred solution, but I might be able to finish a set if that works, right?

Daryl
 

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