Gilded Bird - Geo's new Thunderbird related project

[JIO]

So I got the second set of nickel chrome tuners... but they are not nickel chrome, they are chrome-chrome. Pic shows the original smaller nickel tuners on the right - and the chrome-chrome lat=rger tuners on the left. The first set, also listed as nickel chrome - is the same. I sent the seller this pic - and if they can't send me nickel-nickel, I requested a refund.

I already mounted the 1st (not nickel) set, so will use them for something else, and search-out a nickel set fir the VP, even if it ends up being a vintage Fender set.

Created a wedge for the N-pu and sanded the B-pu spacer and re-drilled the pu screws for a better angle to get the pu's level with the strings. I'll do a bit more fine-tuning after it's back from the final finish. For now - good enough.

 

[JIO]

Tuner set #2 will be returned. I'll use #1 set for something else and will seek out a nickel set in the meantime.

found a (real) nickel set of Wilkinson's -

 

[God's Favorite Bass]

So I got the second set of nickel chrome tuners... but they are not nickel chrome, they are chrome-chrome. Pic shows the original smaller nickel tuners on the right - and the chrome-chrome lat=rger tuners on the left. The first set, also listed as nickel chrome - is the same. I sent the seller this pic - and if they can't send me nickel-nickel, I requested a refund.

View attachment 5109677
I already mounted the 1st (not nickel) set, so will use them for something else, and search-out a nickel set fir the VP, even if it ends up being a vintage Fender set.
View attachment 5109688
Created a wedge for the N-pu and sanded the B-pu spacer and re-drilled the pu screws for a better angle to get the pu's level with the strings. I'll do a bit more fine-tuning after it's back from the final finish. For now - good enough.
View attachment 5109690

The picture of the tuners is messing with me the plates look like they get smaller from E to G in steps.

 

[JIO]

The picture of the tuners is messing with me the plates look like they get smaller from E to G in steps.

Foreshadowing perspective - all the same size! Got the nickel Wilkinsons's just now - and a heads up. The other (first) eBay seller is someone to either avoid or confirm what you are getting with questions. He posted the Wilkinson's as "nickel-chrome' when they were/are obviously 'chrome-chrome' (more silvery - not as "warm") The kind of seller that just figures no one will notice ~ so he offered a return and I expect him to also pay my return USPS cost. Just a hassle and again, hoping the buyer wouldn't want to deal with it. The first seller is fox-guitars (4349) - lots of sales, but they don't appear to care if sending the correct advertised parts. The successful eBay seller is guitarpartsfactory (80713) Many more sales and I will buy from them again. The nickel version was more $, but it was what I wanted.

Once here, I disassembled the bass and used a brown scrub-pad to dull the gloss finish to prepare the surfaces for the red-oxide base-coat - it gives the paint purchase/grip. Before spraying, I'll wipe it down with naphtha to remove all dust and finger/hand grease before spraying. I will leave the hs face black, and install the Epiphone tr cover as... that's who made it. I can't support replacing it with a Gibson stamped tr cover that some people do because it took Epiphone to make an authentic RI of the '63-65 T-bird, and not Gibson.

 

[JIO]

Red Oxide primer coat - done

 

[TerribleTim68]

Reminds me of my days working construction where all the steel had that same primer on it.

 

[JIO]

Reminds me of my days working construction where all the steel had that same primer on it.

hummm...

 

[dagrev]

Reminds me of my days working construction where all the steel had that same primer on it.

Yes it does, doesn't it?!!

 

[Engle]

So I got the second set of nickel chrome tuners... but they are not nickel chrome, they are chrome-chrome. Pic shows the original smaller nickel tuners on the right - and the chrome-chrome lat=rger tuners on the left. The first set, also listed as nickel chrome - is the same. I sent the seller this pic - and if they can't send me nickel-nickel, I requested a refund.

View attachment 5109677
I already mounted the 1st (not nickel) set, so will use them for something else, and search-out a nickel set fir the VP, even if it ends up being a vintage Fender set.
View attachment 5109688
Created a wedge for the N-pu and sanded the B-pu spacer and re-drilled the pu screws for a better angle to get the pu's level with the strings. I'll do a bit more fine-tuning after it's back from the final finish. For now - good enough.
View attachment 5109690

Do you think it makes an audible difference having the pickups parallel to the strings?

 

[JIO]

Do you think it makes an audible difference having the pickups parallel to the strings?

I think yes, it does make a difference abet a subtle one. A hum-bucker has two parallel coils and if tilted will favor one over the other -more response from the closer one. By angling them parallel with the strings - a more optimal/even response is achieved.

Check out this pic of a guitar. The black plastic base-plates are angled allowing the pu faces/poles to be equidistant to the strings. This is only needed when you have a bridge-neck/fingerboard angle/alignment in order to get the strings evenly off the fingerboard (easily playable action) resulting in the bridge rising at an angle off the body. There's about 1/2" to 3/4" of space between the body and the strings closest to the bridge requiring the thick angled base-plates and high-rising pu's to get the pu's close to the strings.

Other styles of bridges offer a very flat profile - not needing angling the pu's, but even a similarly designed bridge like on my '64 II (due to neck angle) is flatter.
Other styles of bridges offer a very flat profile - not needing angling the pu's. Being a string-through or set-neck - the angle you have is how you'll need to deal with it unlike a bolt on which can be shimmed.

 

[Engle]

Yes I understand why it happens, and I will usually correct it when installing pickups. For some reason, I didn't notice it on my VP until you pointed it out on yours

 

[JIO]

Here's some choices for the hue of gold. L-R; 22KTS French Pale Gold / 13.25KTS White Gold / 16KTS Pale Gold / 22KTS Moon Gold / 18KTS Lemon Gold (natural subdued indoor light)

Same with an incondecent ceiling light -

French Pale is the "gold-est" (not Roman Gold, but very gold), White Gold the "silver-est", Moon Gold the "warm-est" (but dull-est), Lemon Gold the "shiny-est" and Pale Gold (center) is the most 'neutral'.

These basses are being looked at as a reference and something to bounce/key off of. Whatever mine ends up to look like will be its/my own 'look'. FTR, red oxide is a commonly/traditionally used base for gold-leaf as seen on gilded furniture and picture frames.

But then I remembered I had packets of this gold - which I like the best. It's also larger leafs that are a bit thicker which will help. (natural light)

ceiling light -

Once clear-coated, any RO is showing will appear more high-key than the dull metal primer look it has now. This is RO coated with gilding size, which has a gloss sheen.

This is how it looks after clear-coating (shot with a flash) RO is a colour that appears different in different stages of the process. This bass was finished with Lemon Gold if I remember correctly.

Also to be incorporated on Pat Wilkins' final finish (clear-coat) is the rare as hens teeth "magic gold dust" that is activated by light. It is a product no longer available that Pat found in his storage bin that once I saw it - he reserves it for Gildaxe finishes only. Very hard to photograph and very special to observe in person.

 

[Indiedog]

How cool to see some of the many choices in gold leaf! I had no idea there were so many shades!

 

[JIO]

How cool to see some of the many choices in gold leaf! I had no idea there were so many shades!

That's just a sampling. I have at least one 25 leaf packet of each, and buy more once a specific hue is chosen. But there are dozens of golds, and then there is variegated gold leaf in many colours which can get pretty psychedelic. (examples on page 1) The big difference in gilding is that gold - real gold leaf, won't tarnish the way silver and copper do. I have done cool etched silver & copper gilding to create unique patina's. Can't do that with gold. You can effect it after sealing it, which I plan to do, with stains. Gilding is a high-craft/art that has a rich history over centuries. I hope to tap into that history/tradition with this bass guitar related entry!

 

[JIO]

Not the first gold-leafed (Epi) T-bird rodeo I've been to...

 

[JIO]

 

[JIO]

Same bass - different lighting. I just rewatched (the original 1975) "Jaws" the other day and for whatever reason this pic of my SuperB alludes to Jaws... (not so much in the pic above it)

 

[TerribleTim68]

.... FTR, red oxide is a commonly/traditionally used base for gold-leaf as seen on gilded furniture and picture frames....

Wait, wait, wait. Are you telling me that all those stair railings in all those high-rise buildings I helped build could have been gold leafed?!?!?!
Talk about missed opportunities!

Also, FTR, I like the last one with the bigger sheets over the other choices.

 

[JIO]

Wait, wait, wait. Are you telling me that all those stair railings in all those high-rise buildings I helped build could have been gold leafed?!?!?!
Talk about missed opportunities!

Also, FTR, I like the last one with the bigger sheets over the other choices.

Hah! (as you know) those would be polished brass! Chandeliers, furniture, interior & exterior trim accents, antiques/collectables... yah - I'm going with the larger leafs, it's the best hue of gold comparatively.

 

[JIO]