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Going to install very thick strings (.175 - .85) on my 4 string. What should I worry about?

I'd like to know how to go about installing them without fret buzz issues (given the thicker strings will poke out of the nut).
Really looking to find a safe way to file the nut, which tools I should use, and things I may not know about to look out for.
Any help is appreciated.
 
Quick and dirty, but relatively simple and safe method - Nut files, set of feeler gauges, a rubber band and a straight edge.

Lay straight edge on frets, measure the height of the first fret using the feeler gauges - measuring between fretboard and bottom of straight edge. Add a few thou for safety (either a thin feeler gauge or add a layer or 2 of masking tape at the nut). Lay the feeler gauges as a stack against the nut and secure in place with a rubber band. You'll see how far you have to file at this point. File your nut slots until you hit the top feeler gauge, but make sure the angle of cut is right to the tuners.

I've used this method a number of times and it hasn't failed me yet!
 
Quick and dirty, but relatively simple and safe method - Nut files, set of feeler gauges, a rubber band and a straight edge.
Lay straight edge on frets, measure the height of the first fret using the feeler gauges - measuring between fretboard and bottom of straight edge. Add a few thou for safety (either a thin feeler gauge or add a layer or 2 of masking tape at the nut). Lay the feeler gauges as a stack against the nut and secure in place with a rubber band. You'll see how far you have to file at this point. File your nut slots until you hit the top feeler gauge, but make sure the angle of cut is right to the tuners.
I've used this method a number of times and it hasn't failed me yet!

That's the procedure for making the slots deeper. Which is 100% wrong for what OP is asking.
He needs to make the slots wider to accommodate the thicker strings without making them deeper. (assuming it is properly set up to begin with)

No feeler gauges, no rubber bands, no straight edge.
He needs a file and a pencil.
Color in the bottom of the slot with the pencil, and make a fine line on the front and back of the nut exactly at the bottom of the slot.
File the sides carefully to make them wider while being careful to not file away the pencil marks.
 
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That's the procedure for making the slots deeper. Which is 100% wrong for what OP is asking.
He needs to make the slots wider to accommodate the thicker strings without making them deeper. (assuming it is properly set up to begin with)

No feeler gauges, no rubber bands, no straight edge.
He needs a file and a pencil.
Color in the bottom of the slot with the pencil, and make a fine line on the front and back of the nut exactly at the bottom of the slot.
File the sides carefully to make them wider while being careful to not file away the pencil marks.

I was both widening and deepening the slots in question, but sure you know best...
 
I have filed out a nut to .165.
Indeed don't deepen the slots, and as described by lz4005 only file back the slot walls, don't touch the base of the slot at all.
Go slowly and stop when the string can slide freely in the slot, without being jammed between the slot walls, and when there is good contact with the slot base.
Good tool is a small diamond needle file with a curved side (cheap).
It's an easy job, the worst that can happen is needing a new nut, which is a cheap replacement, if getting a guitar tech to replace the nut for you is eventually needed then you might as well try filing the slots yourself anyway.
You’ll need a nice set of nut files
No, they will be the wrong size anyway, you only need one cheap needle file.
You’ll need to most likely tighten the truss rod due to the increased tension as well.
No, .175 to .085 tuned F#BEA has less total tension than a standard .105 to .045 EADG set.
Oh crumbs here we go again.
Tendonitis, perhaps? Or, some other related hand wrist, joints, problems.
No, see above, tension depends on what you tune to.
 
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That's the procedure for making the slots deeper. Which is 100% wrong for what OP is asking.
He needs to make the slots wider to accommodate the thicker strings without making them deeper. (assuming it is properly set up to begin with)

No feeler gauges, no rubber bands, no straight edge.
He needs a file and a pencil.
Color in the bottom of the slot with the pencil, and make a fine line on the front and back of the nut exactly at the bottom of the slot.
File the sides carefully to make them wider while being careful to not file away the pencil marks.

This.
 
Could i ask why ? most of the times even B string is not usable when open...

Depends which style of which is played.

Traditionally, the low B isn't always used. But, that doesn't mean a low F (lower than B) is never applicable.
I wouldn't go any lower than an E an octave below a 4-string (as you can actually clap the note, it's that low).

In many newer styles of Metal, with the popularisation of the 8-string guitar has lead to bassists with 5-strings just tuning the E A D G strings up a whole tone (F# B E A), to match the guitars. Problem is, it's in the same octave.
The role of the bassist becomes overshadowed and serves only a sound, not a bass role relative to the guitars.

I've been listening to some Prog Metal that uses 8-strings and know that if I were to use a tuning that's an octave lower than the 8-strings (as some bands do) my 4-string can pack a real punch in the mix.

If I'm to play any other style, I would use my 6-string though.

EDIT: Also, there's not much point adding a lot of distortion onto the bass, if it's tuned that low it's meant to sound huge and rumbly. Without clean signal, a lot of those lows can be lost.
I'm going for impact for the song, not just for low notes because I feel like it or something.
 
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You missed my point.
What was your point? You suggested these would cause injury, why would they? If you were joking, i apologise.
Could i ask why ? most of the times even B string is not usable when open...
B strings are completely usable right down to B.
Why ask why? It's a bass and F# is a low string, seems suitable.
F# is a mainstream string now and is not particularly low seeing as you can buy the C# and G# below it.
 
B strings are completely usable right down to B.
Why ask why? It's a bass and F# is a low string, seems suitable.
F# is a mainstream string now and is not particularly low seeing as you can buy the C# and G# below it.

Ok i am maybe left out by the new trends but C# G# F# should be below the sonic capabilities of most amps/cabs . And on the border between subsonic and sonic, which means that their musicallity is questionable. The idea that extended range guitar should come down to our frequencies doesnt mean that the bass should be downgraded to a rumble instrument. So why stop at G# why not lower?