I know that Duratex is a good product but I'm looking for a locally available alternative - something i could buy at home depot. What else is there?
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Good alternatives to Duratex?
- Thread starter fourstringbliss
- Start date
I just did my 8x10 in herculiner, its meant for pickup truck beds. I had it left over from another project and the factory covering had been removed years ago so i figured why not. i went on well and is adhearing great. finish is rough, much like a course grit sand paper but hey its not for comfort! i got a kit at napa for 100 beans, i believe lowe's has it as well. Be warned though it stinks real bad, my bandmates were not impressed when i stunk out the jam room!! and i had it out in the hallway outside the room with a fan blowing on it!
The big box stores have a decking finish. Lowes and Home Depot both have it, different brands, I think. The display I looked at while in Home Depot looked alright. It has three different thicknesses IIRC. The first one looked a bit thin, and more like just a bunch of coats of paint. The other two looked good enough for cabs, but the texture was different. Not necessarily good or bad, just different than vinyl or Duratex. It's something I'll remember is available, and as a plus it can be colored. Duratex is quite a bit cheaper.
Line-X is awesome, I've gone to them before. Here is a before and after. The right one is vintage tolex; the left, Line-X. Also more expensive than Duratex. I will say, though, it's bulletproof and feels like it. Some might think it's too rough, and I don't disagree that it's rough. It isn't close to a sandpaper/abrasive texture, but it is heavier than I would do with Duratex.
There is another option from the big box stores, but once again, a bit pricier than Duratex. There is a texture spray paint. I have used it with good results. Home D has a finer texture. Don't use that. There is a pretty heavy textured one by two different brands, always stocked with spray paints. Give it a full 24-30 hours without touching it at all, then spray it with the color of your choice if you don't like the out-of-the-can color choice. Cover that (when it's a full 12 or so hours dry) with a few coats of clear. Sort of a refrigerator feel to it when it's done.
Line-X is awesome, I've gone to them before. Here is a before and after. The right one is vintage tolex; the left, Line-X. Also more expensive than Duratex. I will say, though, it's bulletproof and feels like it. Some might think it's too rough, and I don't disagree that it's rough. It isn't close to a sandpaper/abrasive texture, but it is heavier than I would do with Duratex.
There is another option from the big box stores, but once again, a bit pricier than Duratex. There is a texture spray paint. I have used it with good results. Home D has a finer texture. Don't use that. There is a pretty heavy textured one by two different brands, always stocked with spray paints. Give it a full 24-30 hours without touching it at all, then spray it with the color of your choice if you don't like the out-of-the-can color choice. Cover that (when it's a full 12 or so hours dry) with a few coats of clear. Sort of a refrigerator feel to it when it's done.
- Feb 12, 2006
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- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
Line-x is a far superior product and process than Duratex IME. I was quite unhappy with Duratex on I project that I tried it on, it was professionally sprayed and while it went on ok, it was nowhere near the toughness of Line-x and other similar catalyzed polyurathanes/epoxies.
One process that is quite reasonable, though messy and requires a booth of sorts, is to use colored fibreglass resin (another catalyzed product) very similar to Line-x but without the texturing agent (which a variety can be added). Also very durable.
One process that is quite reasonable, though messy and requires a booth of sorts, is to use colored fibreglass resin (another catalyzed product) very similar to Line-x but without the texturing agent (which a variety can be added). Also very durable.
- Mar 8, 2011
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I messed around with a few Duratex alternatives in the past 3 years of building cabs. The tradeoffs for a tougher finish are typically added weight and a horrific smell...takes forever to go away in some cases. Did some experimenting earlier this evening with yet another new product. Smells, but not horribly. Seems pretty tough so far. Not liking the finish at all 
Maybe there is a hardening or sealing agent that could cover the smell? Either quick Cure it, or lock it in? Like nailpolish has a spray.
Methinks that reports of tolex's death are "greatly exaggerated."
OP, just do Duratex & roll on a extra couple layers if you're worried about durability at all. Also, it's available in any Sherwin-Williams color (for a small upcharge, of course
).
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wmhill
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OH! I thought it said Durex...... I was gonna recommend Trojan. My bad!
Tuffcoat (UK) is not Duratex but it is similar. Warnex is also similar to Duratex or Tuffocat, and is made in Germanyl You'd find more of those in the continent.
Tuffcoat (US) is a boat repair coating.
Tuffcoat (US) is a boat repair coating.
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I use MinWax PolyShades Aerosol spray-on one-step combination oil stain and polyurethane...
Super easy to apply, looks great (especially in gloss black), and is super easy to apply touchups
on dings that may happen later. It holds up well.
Super easy to apply, looks great (especially in gloss black), and is super easy to apply touchups
on dings that may happen later. It holds up well.
- Feb 12, 2006
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The problem with Duratex type products is not with the thickness or number of coats. It's with the adhesion under stress, and the surface resistance to abrasion compared with the real commercially applied coatings.
The difference is really significant.
The difference is really significant.
Off the shelf black paint, and periodic touch up. And it can always be refinished with an industrial product later.
- Feb 12, 2006
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Inter-mixing different pant products, especially different classes of products can result in serious incompatability problems including bubbling of the base finish and poor adhesion of the later coats.
- Nov 24, 2008
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I've never had an adhesion problem with Duratex as long as the surface is compatible. Wood is compatible but spackling and all other over-the-counter fillers I've tried are not. So if I have to fill a glitch or void, I make my own putty out of wood glue and fine sawdust.
Agreed that Duratex isn't nearly as tough as a two-part coating, but it's easy to do a quick get-me-through-the-gig touchup (blacks Sharpie and then smear with your finger so it doesn't shine). Also you can get a pint-sized "sample pack" of Duratex complete with a little rough-textured roller for ballpark twenty bucks. It's enough to do a couple of cabs with a lifetime's supply of touch-ups left over.
Gaolee
Official leathers tester and crash dummy
So far, I have had absolutely no issues with Duratex durability. To the point that I used white Duratex on some ductwork that remained visible when we refinished our basement. That was a year ago, and it's holding up just fine in that application. This afternoon, I dragged a heavy PA cabinet out of the trailer and wondered why it was making some awful scraping noises. It turned out that there was a screw sticking up in the aluminum trim at the trailer's door. The Duratex is scuffed, but not scuffed through. It didn't give up at all. I have no complaints about that stuff at all.
Another product I have used for other purposes is called Grizzly Grip. It's a Line-X knock off that you can buy in different colors. It's more rubberized feeling than Duratex or Line-X. For what it is, it works just fine. I rolled it on the floor of my van and it worked great for many years without touch-up. It stinks to high heaven, so given the choice, I would use another product if it would work for the application. I don't think Duratex would work very well as a coating for a work van floor, so evil smelling solvents are sometimes necessary.
Another product I have used for other purposes is called Grizzly Grip. It's a Line-X knock off that you can buy in different colors. It's more rubberized feeling than Duratex or Line-X. For what it is, it works just fine. I rolled it on the floor of my van and it worked great for many years without touch-up. It stinks to high heaven, so given the choice, I would use another product if it would work for the application. I don't think Duratex would work very well as a coating for a work van floor, so evil smelling solvents are sometimes necessary.
The Elmer's wood filler works great with Duratex too. It's made much like Duke's homegrown recipe. It has sawdust in it. The only real pain about it IME is that you have to give it 12 or even 24 hours to cure. IIRC the packaging says shorter times, but I have had it still a bit short of cure before, following their guidelines. Hit it with fine grit paper and a barely damp rag after curing; Give it 10-15 minutes, Duratex away. Good Duratex jobs require many light coats. Only apply ONE direction. Minimum 1 hour between coats, allow 24 hours after final coat.
