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Guitar Scale Acoustic Basses

Can someone tell me about the differences between the Ibanez PNB14E and the AVNB1E? What makes the latter twice the price as the former?

I wish I could tell you how they compare in sound and playability, but I haven't found an AVN bass to try out. The attached image shows my Short Scale Bass comparison spreadsheet for the 25" scale Ibanez basses. So you can see the spec differences anyway. Main ones are electronics, solid top and types of wood used. Curiously the specs on the Ibanez website say the AVNB2E is almost an inch deeper than the AVNB1E. I wonder if this is a mistake.

SS Bass Comparison Ibanez.png
 
Can someone tell me about the differences between the Ibanez PNB14E and the AVNB1E? What makes the latter twice the price as the former?
Short version:
- Fishman Sonicore piezo instead of unknown Ibanez equivalent.
- Upgraded preamp with enough beans to drive an included XLR DI output.
- Solid top instead of plywood.
- Nicer neck and fingerboard woods.
- Pseudo-vintage cosmetics make it look more "grown up".
- More sustain.

Aside from price, the only downside I see to the AVN is the period-correct unbound solid top. As with old solid mahogany-topped Martins, you have to be careful about bangs and scrapes. You can easily re-glue a popped seam on an unbound instrument, but it doesn't do much for the looks.

As with most musical instruments, the relationship between price and performance isn't close to linear. As you go higher in quality and price, it seems to get exponentially harder to claw out every percentage point of improvement.

My $2,400 Dingwall (replacement cost would be $3,600 just 6 years later) isn't 4x better than the heavily-modded Squier in my icon. The Squier cost me $600 plus labour, and while the Dingwall is definitely better in every way, I doubt that it's much more than 15-20% better in any particular respect.

Audiences never complained about the Squier, but most FOH techs and musicians I play with notice the difference, and always ask for the Dingwall. That's why the Squier is gone, yet the ABZ is still around!
 
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I wish I could tell you how they compare in sound and playability, but I haven't found an AVN bass to try out. The attached image shows my Short Scale Bass comparison spreadsheet for the 25" scale Ibanez basses. So you can see the spec differences anyway. Main ones are electronics, solid top and types of wood used. Curiously the specs on the Ibanez website say the AVNB2E is almost an inch deeper than the AVNB1E. I wonder if this is a mistake.
Nice chart! The website used to show the AVNB1E as being 5" deep. Also a mistake.

The PNB and AVN's are made in different factories, in different countries, which probably explains the minor dimensional differences.

Generally speaking, Ibanez instruments in the $400 to $500 bracket are more consistent in terms of finish detail and setup. I've now sampled 3 AVN's, and they were close to identical. Others have reported returning a couple of PNB's because of defects.

Not a big statistical sample, but still worth considering if you're purchasing by mail order, or have to pay someone else to do setup work.

I am happy to have the improved electronics, etc., of the AVN, but I'm using it quite a lot as a stage instrument.

That said, for home/travel use, I probably would have been nearly as happy with the PNB. Also, I wouldn't be as concerned about heat/humidity, because of the laminated top.
 
As with most musical instruments, the relationship between price and performance isn't close to linear. As you go higher in quality and price, it seems to get exponentially harder to claw out every percentage point of improvement.

My $2,400 Dingwall (replacement cost would be $3,600 just 6 years later) isn't 4x better than the heavily-modded Squier in my icon. The Squier cost me $600 plus labour, and while the Dingwall is definitely better in every way, I doubt that it's much more than 15-20% better in any particular respect.

Audiences never complained about the Squier, but most FOH techs and musicians I play with notice the difference, and always ask for the Dingwall. That's why the Squier is gone, yet the ABZ is still around!

Yes, I agree; it's the "Concept of Diminishing Returns". Thanks for the info!
 
I wish I could tell you how they compare in sound and playability, but I haven't found an AVN bass to try out. The attached image shows my Short Scale Bass comparison spreadsheet for the 25" scale Ibanez basses. So you can see the spec differences anyway. Main ones are electronics, solid top and types of wood used. Curiously the specs on the Ibanez website say the AVNB2E is almost an inch deeper than the AVNB1E. I wonder if this is a mistake.

View attachment 3336748
This is fantastic! It really helps. It's basically better woods, solid top, bone nut/saddle instead of plastic, better piezo, nice flat radius, and an upgrade all around. Thanks!
 
Would the laminated top be stronger and resist bridge pull?
Not if each instrument is well constructed.

The upsides to solid tops are that they are more responsive, and the sound opens up with age and use. The downside is that they are more susceptible to damage from careless handling and storage.

I would never leave an acoustic instrument out in the sun on a hot day, or store it near a steam radiator without a humidifier.

But if I did, a laminated instrument would be more likely to survive the abuse.
 
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Hi guys - new member here. I have a couple of questions about purchasing an acoustic bass. My background - played electric bass a little in high school (messing around with garage band) and about 20 year ago purchased a Martin B-1 which I hung onto for about 5 years when I sold it to move on to other hobbies (still kicking myself about that). Looking to start playing again and want an acoustic to keep the "getting started" cost down.

I'm in a metro area with access to 5 or 6 guitar stores, so I'm able to test out a variety of basses and even multiple of the same model. I really like the sound and feel of the short scale bases and these are the ones on my list (in this order or preference):
- Ibanez PNB14E (I would love to try the AVNB1E but can't find one locally)
- Guild Jumbo Junior (great feel and sound but twice the cost of the Ibanez)
- Gold Tone Microbass (love this guitar but too quiet and don't have access to one with the Silverback strings)
- Taylor GS Mini-e (too expensive and the scale feels too short)

The Ibanez will probably win out because of the price - such a great value.

Here are my questions:

I've played 3 or 4 of the Ibanez basses and notice significant differences in the sound and feel. I think this is due to the condition of the strings, but I'm not sure. How do you go about judging the sound/quality of a guitar when you have to play display-model strings? Should I choose the one that looks best knowing that a new set of strings will make them all sound the same? Or pick one that sounds/feels best when played in the store?

And related questions: Should I choose the model based on playing the floor instrument but then find a "new" one in stock so that I can get one with a fresh set of strings? A $30 set of strings is ~10% the cost of the guitar. Is it too risky to buy unseen when you have the option to pick a floor instrument? Or are they all pretty much the same, and buying a floor model is basically throwing away $30? I can see that some of these strings have visible wear, discoloration and in some cases oxidation.

Thanks for any advice!
I think the variation in quality of sound has more to do with the hit or miss of the pickup. I went thru at least 3 or 4 that all sounded the same acoustically but plugged in was a different story. The biggest problem that I had was finding one that played uniformly from string to string. The one I finally brought home is a little weak on the D string but run thru a compressor, nobody seems to notice. Finding a good one may be a little more like an Easter egg hunt than with the higher dollar basses. If I had the money, I might have gone for the Guild.

I've had the guitar since September and I do really like it. I like the tone of the bronze strings and can get a lot of different sounds by playing closer or further from the bridge. I play in an acoustic trio right now and have tried a few different basses and everybody seems to like the baby ibby the best.
 
I think the variation in quality of sound has more to do with the hit or miss of the pickup. I went thru at least 3 or 4 that all sounded the same acoustically but plugged in was a different story. The biggest problem that I had was finding one that played uniformly from string to string. The one I finally brought home is a little weak on the D string but run thru a compressor, nobody seems to notice. Finding a good one may be a little more like an Easter egg hunt than with the higher dollar basses. If I had the money, I might have gone for the Guild.

I've had the guitar since September and I do really like it. I like the tone of the bronze strings and can get a lot of different sounds by playing closer or further from the bridge. I play in an acoustic trio right now and have tried a few different basses and everybody seems to like the baby ibby the best.

I just got mine. It was a special order so take it or leave it. The acoustic sounds are fine and I agree, where one plucks/picks really shapes the tone. Plugged in, there is a slight difference in volume between the EA and DG. Not too bad but not perfect either. Considering the "pedigree", it will suffice as I'm not a performer just an enthusiast. I will use it more acoustically as I have numerous friends who are learning the acoustic 6 string and this will be be great for playing one on one. I don't think it would be loud enough to accompany more than one guitar but I don't need it for that. I also had to fake up a CD/foam sound hole cover for when plugged in. Through a new Rumble 40 the feedback was too much at louder volumes. The sound hole cover works so I plan to make a nicer looking one at some point.
It looks and plays great...but Roger on "if I had more money". I just couldn't get the AVN past the accountant....
Bottom line....keeper!
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There's no need to accept any imbalance in the plugged-in tone, at least with the major brands.

On a piezo-equipped instrument, uneven response from string to string is usually the result of poor prep.

A good guitar tech can generally fix it by flattening the bottom of the saddle, and/or levelling the bottom of the slot in the bridge. If that process lowers the action too much, it's just a matter of making a shim.

There's nothing special about doing this work on an ABG vs an acoustic guitar.

Cost should be minimal, as long as there isn't a lot of other work to be done.

I still haven't seen a Guild yet, but everything else is generally solid on Goldtone, Ibanez, and Taylor- good fretwork, clean glue joints, well-fitted nuts, etc.

My biggest concern with Taylor, would be the fact that I haven't seen one with good intonation yet. Intonation adjustments are difficult on fixed bridges, especially with a narrow saddle.
 
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There's no need to accept any imbalance in the plugged-in tone, at least with the major brands.

On a piezo-equipped instrument, uneven response from string to string is usually the result of poor prep.

A good guitar tech can generally fix it by flattening the bottom of the saddle, and/or levelling the bottom of the slot in the bridge. If that process lowers the action too much, it's just a matter of making a shim.

There's nothing special about doing this work on an ABG vs an acoustic guitar.

Cost should be minimal, as long as there isn't a lot of other work to be done.

I still haven't seen a Guild yet, but everything else is generally solid on Goldtone, Ibanez, and Taylor- good fretwork, clean glue joints, well-fitted nuts, etc.

My biggest concern with Taylor, would be the fact that I haven't seen one with good intonation yet. Intonation adjustments are difficult on fixed bridges, especially with a narrow saddle.

These PNBs come with a spare bridge and I plan to lower the action a bit by sanding the spare down. It isn't a big job and I have had success on six strings. Just be sure to maintain the "radius" by scribbing a line before removing stock bridge. Once it's off, I'll check the seat.