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Handmade Cabs

Hello guys!

I want to make an handmade cab (2*12 + horn/or not) :thumbsup:

What speakers do you recomend? (I was thinking something like the EMINENCE or CELESTION)
I want POWER and SOUND!!!

What speakers you recommend for a good bass and mids sound? ( It's all about that BASS, no treble eheheh ;))

And horn or not? What is the difference between a cab with horn or not?

And finally, does the wood thats made of, that influences the sound?

Cheers
 
The cabinet design must be precisely attuned to the drivers with respect to how best to exploit them to satisfy a desired "specification."
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Hello guys!

I want to make an handmade cab (2*12 + horn/or not) :thumbsup:

What speakers do you recomend? (I was thinking something like the EMINENCE or CELESTION)
I want POWER and SOUND!!!

What speakers you recommend for a good bass and mids sound? ( It's all about that BASS, no treble eheheh ;))

And horn or not? What is the difference between a cab with horn or not?

And finally, does the wood thats made of, that influences the sound?

Cheers
if you want power and sound, SCHROEDER CABS are what you are looking for........period. building it yourself? not the way to go. its cheaper to buy a made cab...
 
if you want power and sound, SCHROEDER CABS are what you are looking for........period.

In your humble opinion, of course.

...building it yourself? not the way to go. its cheaper to buy a made cab...
If you want what the "made cab" has. You will get mid-range beaming (can't hear mids from anywhere but directly in front of it) less than muscular lows, and a very very baked-in tone (think 810e, any 410, or perhaps a nice 215 Mesa diesel—all very definitely voiced).

So, yes, not the way to go if you want loud clean lows, clear widely heard mids, and a more neutral color which you can shape to what you want. Cheaper to go used of any kind, it the real word.
 
I have built a number of cabinets - 2 bass ones in the picture. I built them in 1974. 2 x 2 15" Altec 421 8 H bass speakers. 40 years later they are functioning as they did then
as a stereo rig for the Rickenbacker 4001 (1973). Because the enclosures are rectangular boxes, there are 2 sides 1 back, 1 top and 1 bottom of chipboard. the baffle board
is quality ply. It is therefore not a really difficult thought process although there are the other jobs to do which could take longer than the structure took to build. Vinyl covering
grill, corner protectors etc and feet. A 2 x 12" should not be too difficult. Celestion speakers should be O.K. All the best with your completed cabinet!
 
I strongly recommend that you read up on what actually goes into making a good cabinet before jumping into this. Especially since it seems that you don't know what you actually want.

I would echo this. You seem to be unsure about fairly basic things like what a horn does in a cab, since nobody seems to have answered I'll give it a go. All speakers drivers are designed to work best across a certain range of frequencies. The speakers that work well at low frequencies such as 15 inch, 12 inch and 10 inch speakers start to become less efficient at higher frequencies and their response starts to fall away (typically at around 4-5khz). Some bass styles, such as slap bass, benefit from having a bit of top end sizzle going on, so in this case, designers add a tweeter (sometimes but not always a horn loaded one) to extend the frequency of the overall cab design.

This is more complex because you then need a crossover circuit so that you feed the low frequencies to the big speakers and not to the tweeter, and vice versa. Some even more sophisticated designs such as the Greenboy cabinets use a 3 way crossover, so that you have separate drivers for lows, mids and highs. This allows you to use drivers that are optimised for their task, so you can use a 3012LF, crossed over to a 6" mid driver and then (if you need it) crossing over again to a tweeter. It is the crossovers job to make sure the frequencies are all handled nice and smoothly at the frequencies that they crossover at. A design like this will give you the broadest frequency range from really deep to really high; but you may not need it if your playing style and taste is different. If you don't need such a broad frequency range you would be better off making a simpler cab, perhaps with just one or two speakers that each carry the full range of frequencies you need. In this case you would be better off getting a 3012HO (the LF in the 3012 range stands for Low Frequency and this speaker really needs to hand over to a mid range speaker wheras the 3012HO is 'full range').

No disrespect to Arturo, but in the 40 years that have passed since we were all making ourselves huge, really heavy wardrobe sized cabinets (usually without any thought of porting or tuning) made of MDF or Chipboard, the world of cab design has come on a long way. The wood that a cab is made from doesn't make any difference to the sound as long as it is strong enough that the panels don't resonate. This used to be achieved by using really heavyweight materials such as 3/4 inch chipboard or 3/4 plywood, but the smart thing to do nowadays is to get some high quality Baltic Birch plywood and make cabs out of lighter 1/2 inch (12mm) ply. Since this is thinner material it needs internal braces to add stiffness without weight.

Making cabs is not 'cheap', and you can easily buy cabs for a similar price as ones you can make...the difference is that you can usually get a cab built for your exact needs, loaded with far better speakers for the same price.

So the choice is yours. If you want the widest frequency range, go for one of the Greenboy designs, if you want a simple 212 one of the easiest to build is Bill Fitzmaurice's simplex design...but do work from existing plans because making cabs is the easy bit, designing them is what takes years of study and experience.
 
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So the choice is yours. If you want the widest frequency range, go for one of the Greenboy designs, if you want a simple 212 one of the easiest to build is Bill Fitzmaurice's simplex design...but do work from existing plans because making cabs is the easy bit, designing them is what takes years of study and experience.
+1, but a couple of points. The BFM Omni 12 and Omni 15 have just as wide a frequency range as the Greenboy designs, but with higher efficiency. The Jack series don't have as wide a range, but the midrange punch is unequalled by any other speaker I've ever played through. Price wise the Simplexx cost less to build than the average mid line Ampeg, Fender, Peavey, but they sound better than most boutique cabs.
 
+1, but a couple of points. The BFM Omni 12 and Omni 15 have just as wide a frequency range as the Greenboy designs, but with higher efficiency. The Jack series don't have as wide a range, but the midrange punch is unequalled by any other speaker I've ever played through. Price wise the Simplexx cost less to build than the average mid line Ampeg, Fender, Peavey, but they sound better than most boutique cabs.

I'm a big BFM fan Rick, I've built myself two of Bill's Jack 12 Lites, along with some Wedgehorn 8 monitors and both of these designs punch very hard and way above their size and weight. This little lot were built for my band's PA. The Jacks are loaded with 3012HOs and, what with all the crossover components, the tweeters, the premium quality ply, the fittings etc...cost me almost as much as a pair of SRM450s; but they blow the Mackies away, and the monitors are the only ones I've ever used where our vocalist asks to be turned down.

Only my own experience, but this vindicates the effort put into building them and gives me enough proof that building your own isn't cheap (if you do it right), but you will end up with a superior product that you would have to pay several times more to obtain from commercial designs.

Naturally, curiosity being what it is, I have used the Jacks for bass (using one with the full array and the other with the array disconnected). They are blisteringly loud. Far, far louder than my 15/6 Barefaced cab but their voicing doesn't do it for me on bass, others might love them.

I had sort of overlooked the Omnis, good point made, although (I may be assuming a lot here) from the OP's general questions a straight forward box might be the easiest thing to start with.
 
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Hello guys! Thanks for your answers!
So, time and money are not my problems. I want to do a good bass cab 2*12 + tweeter but I don't want to pay 1000€ for it! Yes there are very good cabs but, why pay almost 1000€ or more than that, when I have the time the money to make one of my own. Yes, I have to research for some 'advices' how to do it, but with patience I think I can make it!

My idea is to do a 2*12 + tweeter. Check out this project I found! What do you think? What you recommend for the tweeter?
3012HO_DiagTriPort2.gif
 

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