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Hartke Hydrive 5210 combo

I've tried today the same amp (LH-500) with a 4x10... Same result: you need to turn the volume knob clockwise to past 6 in order to be heard... Just "to be heard"!! Not a huge sound. In my opinion, it's a weak amp no matter the cabinet

Did you read my post? This is the way it is designed. To give you more variation at low volume. as you get past 6 or 7 to 10 or whatever, it goes to full power quickly. The number means nothing as far as power out put goes.
 
1n3 said:
oriol - it does sound like you've got a defective amp. Bummer.

Yes, you're right. I'm playing a Hartke rig (4.5 XL) with a classic 350 watts amp, bought in 1996 and still sound good!! But when you try a couple of Hartke combos and both are faulty... dude, you'd lose some faith. Choosing your rig is not an easy task. You'd buy and keep many basses through the years, but not as much amps & cabinets.
My decision is to keep my Hartke amp, but look for a 4x10 cabinet. My sound is clean, close to Pastorius but with punchy treble an mids when I slap (wich happens only 30% of the time).
Any suggestion??
 
If you're seeing very large cone excursion, you've probably got too much sub bass in the mix. You need to dial that out (which is the challenge with the LH tone stack) so that the speakers can work in the low mids region more. I doubt there is a fault with your combos. LH series tone setting issues are well documented on TB, a lot of people struggle with the mids, which is why I prefer the HA3500 series graphic EQ section.
 
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If you're seeing very large cone excursion, you've probably got too much sub bass in the mix. You need to dial that out (which is the challenge with the LH tone stack) so that the speakers can work in the low mids region more. I doubt there is a fault with your combos. LH series tone setting issues are well documented on TB, a lot of people struggle with the mids, which is why I prefer the HA3500 series graphic EQ section.

I can fully understand not liking the LH series amp, The mid thing could very well be an issue for some. I'm usually dimed on the mids, a little on the highs, almost no bass. I love it there.

I've got HA series amps, definitely the classic Hartke sound. I've only been taking the LH out, lately.
 
I can fully understand not liking the LH series amp, The mid thing could very well be an issue for some. I'm usually dimed on the mids, a little on the highs, almost no bass. I love it there.

I've got HA series amps, definitely the classic Hartke sound. I've only been taking the LH out, lately.

Most bassist are used to the equal boost/cut bass mid treble controls on amps. The tone stack takes a bit (quite a bit!) of getting used to, and it feels strange dialing a lot of the bass knob out to get the mids back. Inexperience with this type of EQ is the main problem I think. You're spot on though, the bass needs to be reduced to cut thru. If they leave everything at noon (esp with a 210) they'll never cut thru. It took me a while to decide this set up wasn't for me, but I know a lot of good bassists dig the LH sound. I prefer the warmer deeper sound of my LM3 now however.
 
Most bassist are used to the equal boost/cut bass mid treble controls on amps. The tone stack takes a bit (quite a bit!) of getting used to, and it feels strange dialing a lot of the bass knob out to get the mids back. Inexperience with this type of EQ is the main problem I think. You're spot on though, the bass needs to be reduced to cut thru. If they leave everything at noon (esp with a 210) they'll never cut thru. It took me a while to decide this set up wasn't for me, but I know a lot of good bassists dig the LH sound. I prefer the warmer deeper sound of my LM3 now however.

I come from a guitar background, and was a fan of Musicman amps (first tube bass amp was MM) I believe if my poor memory serves they were tone stack so it's an "analogue' technology I'm used to. The numbers on the dials mean little, the sound does.
 
Don't use the active input unless you really need it! It seems your bass doesn't create adequate gain to need the active input padding.

They shouldn't really call the inputs "active/passive" they should call them "normal/padded".
They call them that for those who dont know enough about gain structure and impedance matching.

Try "Passive input". I always have, and I'm a sound engineer and pro bass player. You have nothing to fear. You will not fry your input stage.

Your speakers could be out of phase. When speaker cable jack is connected to a 1.5 (or 9v if no movement) volt battery, the woofers should both move in the same direction. hopefully outward if tip is to positive terminal, and inward if tip is connected to the negative battery terminal.

Enjoy your good amplifier. Hartke is good stuff.
 
Having problems with my recently bought new hartke hydrive 5210. Just got it today... not really good first impression.

Getting really low volume, almost nothing below 6 and after that minimal increase. Tried everything, passive/active inputs, 3 different batteries and many different cables.

You can hear the relay click and stuff. No noise/hum when bass is connected.

2nd time I turned it on it worked as it should, really nice tone and volume, even at low levels. Got really loud when turned up.
Worked for few hours. Later when I tried to play the problem came back and I havent got it working since.

Any ideas or should I just return it.

e. a little more testing and beer. Something is loose, really good smack returns volume to normal for a time.
Guess it's time to take it back to shop and hope next wont be as **** as this.
 
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