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Heck with this "class D" crap
- Thread starter MJ_Sotti
- Start date
Mr. Foxen
Commercial User
Many amps - SS and Tube will cut out when conditions aren't optimal.
But SS Amp protection circuits of totally "Cutting out" have got to go.
They should lower the power and flash a big LED to say "I'm lowering the power to prevent from cutting out" or "I'm turning on the limiter to keep from cutting out"
Cutting out is just not acceptable anymore. This problem can be solved.
But SS Amp protection circuits of totally "Cutting out" have got to go.
They should lower the power and flash a big LED to say "I'm lowering the power to prevent from cutting out" or "I'm turning on the limiter to keep from cutting out"
Cutting out is just not acceptable anymore. This problem can be solved.
You're just no fun...... Why NOT cut the wheels off the car if the driver presses the brake too hard?
You're obviously driving them too hard. Sounds like you need more power or more speakers, or probably both.
Class D amps are awesome. I crank mine pretty hard and after a 4 hour show it's barely even warm. I don't think Class D is the problem here.
Class D typology is NOT the problem. The brand or model you chose didn't work for you. Get a different fly weight or lug the tube tube weight. Tube amps are less likely to complain about abusive situations as no safeguards are employed. 
If your speaker cab or speaker cable is the trouble a tube amp is more likely to show smoke from the problem area.
If your speaker cab or speaker cable is the trouble a tube amp is more likely to show smoke from the problem area.
+1!
What kind of music are you playing, how loud is the band, what speakers are you using, etc.? More information will go a long way to determining why you are having this issue.
My former Markbass F1 cut out a couple times at one gig but I determined that most likely the speaker cabinet I used for this gig has a very low point in it's impedance curve that went below the 4Ω minimum at the right frequency that triggered it. Interestingly, the signal from the DI still worked so I was still going through the PA, just not my cab. Turning the amp off and back on reset the limiter. The other micro amps I have have never cut out and get quite loud.
Most likely, you just need more of everything (power/speakers) to not push the amp beyond it's limits (no pun intended).
I dumped a Class D. An A00 serial GK MB2-500. It was a great sounding amp and served me well in more straight up rock and roll settings but; as a heavy fuzz user the amp just wasn't cutting it. Protecting itself to frequently when whacking the crap out of it with tons of gain.
I went back to my old heavy Pre/Poweramp Rig and let that suffice while I saved up for an SVT which I picked up last month.
Yeah the effer weights 85lbs but it is so worth it. Tone for days. I have help for load in/load out anyway so no big deal.
I went back to my old heavy Pre/Poweramp Rig and let that suffice while I saved up for an SVT which I picked up last month.
Yeah the effer weights 85lbs but it is so worth it. Tone for days. I have help for load in/load out anyway so no big deal.
+1
My pf500 through a 410 gives me all i need and the head is always cool when i touch the top of it no matter how hard i drive it.
Mr. Foxen
Commercial User
Other problem might be too much bass boost from the eq on the amp and maybe an active bass. Valve amps with typically passive tone stacks don't give so much option to be a wally with bass knobs.
Do what I am about to do, build a way overspec'd tube power amp and buy a nice preamp.
Use the meatiest power transformers and rectifiers as you can to almost eliminate dropout, and an output transformer that is rated twice as high as you need it for. Put some (2-4) NOS RCA 807's in the middle and you have a (50-100) watt rig, that doesnt sound like much but GOSH DARNIT you will have all 100 watts.
(I can and have built preamps for bass it is a hassle though to find the right vintage parts, but then again ampeg does preamps well)
Use the meatiest power transformers and rectifiers as you can to almost eliminate dropout, and an output transformer that is rated twice as high as you need it for. Put some (2-4) NOS RCA 807's in the middle and you have a (50-100) watt rig, that doesnt sound like much but GOSH DARNIT you will have all 100 watts.
(I can and have built preamps for bass it is a hassle though to find the right vintage parts, but then again ampeg does preamps well)
No, no! It's gotta be a problem with the Class D amp. 'Cuz the OP said so!
That's the way it works around here, doncha know?
MM
