• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Help! I've never bought separate amp components!

#41
Back to the OP's original question --

LH500: $350
LH1000: 500

For another $150 you get double the power and all the amp you will ever need. So why would you not?

I run mine into a 300W 410. I never turn it up. The amp's fan never runs above idle. I got a good deal on the cab and it serves all my indoor practice needs. Some Day I'll go get a cab that can better harness the power in case I find myself playing out or outdoors.

The BIG advantage of the LH1000 over the 500 is in exactly that mismatched cab scenario: the LH1000 has a power Balance knob when it is not running bridged.

So you can easily turn down the power delivered to the less-capable cab. Since the LH500 has but a single power module, you can't do the Balance thing. That's another feature your $150 buys you.

The Hartke LH's are very nicely built and very capable, clean-sounding amps. They're heavy but they represent a excellent value, IMO
 
#42
B-string said:
What? A low sensitivity cab means you need more electronic power to have the same acoustic output of a more efficient cab at a lower "wattage" input. It has nothing to do with "waking up" the cab. You are almost touching on some acoustic design choices that cabs like Acme has chosen. Andy made choices to provide a wide frequency response with corresponding loss of efficiency that do require a minimum power input to reach designed response. They also will hit a hard wall when overpowered, but in between is heaven to many savvy accomplished players.

In short: you need more amp power into a less efficient speaker cab than you do a high efficiency cab.
Click to expand...

What you said here is what I was trying to say, just poorly worded on my part. I was trying to make the point that 500 watts into a low efficiency cab will be quieter compared to the same 500 watts into a high efficiency cab. So to the person worried about putting 485 watts into a 300 watt cab I was saying unless he has a very high efficiency cab I wouldn't worry about the extra 185 watts.
 
#43
arai said:
Because sometimes only the fat, warm sound of a 15” speaker will get the job done. But you need some 10"s to bring back some punch. 10″ speakers reacts faster to transients than fifteens or eighteens.
Click to expand...

This is false.

carvinbassplyr said:
I understand the point you're trying to make here, but you're talking about SEVERELY underpowering the drivers which can be just as bad. Drivers usually have a minimum rms/current rating because there needs to be enough current to move the speaker enough to cool the coil otherwise the diaphragm will freeze (just like tweeters on bass cabs do when you run their volume to low instead of disconnecting it).
Click to expand...

This is also false.

:hmm:
 
#48
This thread got over complicated in a hurry. OP, Hartke is great, as is their customer service, as well a GK. My personal recommendation would be a GK 700rbII. Get two 410's, two 215's, two 212's or a 412. Don't go mixing driver sizes, and dont buy behringer and you will be fine.
 
#49
carvinbassplyr said:
What you said here is what I was trying to say, just poorly worded on my part. I was trying to make the point that 500 watts into a low efficiency cab will be quieter compared to the same 500 watts into a high efficiency cab. So to the person worried about putting 485 watts into a 300 watt cab I was saying unless he has a very high efficiency cab I wouldn't worry about the extra 185 watts.
Click to expand...

Sounds like we are getting close to the same track.The only worry I have with the "extra power" in your example is the person who thinks because of the numbers (485) they can get louder if needed. He runs into a gig where he needs to be louder so he turns up, shortly the volume level drops. He turns up more and worries his amp is failing. What follows is either really bad sound from the cab or silence.
What happened? They may have been close to the thermal limit of the cab under normal use, turn up and you exceed the thermal limit and the overheated voice coils impedance increases from just the peaks to the lower "volume" portions of the signal (you are now exceeding the power compression of the drivers). Turning up more at this point results in voice coil burn-out. Always keep in mind the "RMS" rating of an amp is at a low distortion level and amps can well exceed that rating at higher distortion levels. Ratings given in audio are an attempt at a "standardized" reference. They are not an absolute.
RMS in itself is flawed as it is a mathematical "average" of the signal waveform (~0.707 of the total power cycle) and now we could even get into the actual duty cycle of a power amp. Hint: audio amps don't run anywhere near 100% duty cycle. But I can already see folks eyes glazing over. :)
 
#52
jroget803 said:
Hartke LH1000
TC Electronics BC410 (500W) x 2
Click to expand...

If you ever mentioned what type of music you're playing this loud - I didn't see it.

Once you start getting into specifics on cabinets, they'll have specific voices.

If you're going for the equivalent of an 8x10 because you're going for 'the Ampeg sound' (for instance...) this might not be a good match.

The LH's don't have as much built-in color as some, and can undoubtedly be made to sound like pretty much anything with the right effects in front.

But I have no idea what those cabs sound like. And any recommendations will be iffy without knowing what genre or artist sound you're going for...
 
#53
jroget803 said:
Thanks everyone. I'm going to run this config by everyone.

Hartke LH1000
TC Electronics BC410 (500W) x 2

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

I'm sure that rig could handle most anything you could throw at it.

Lots of people will throw all sorts of info and opinions your way, and Talkbass is a great resource for that, but ultimately you'll probably end up going through a few rigs before you land at one that exactly fits your needs; at least I know I did. Good luck.
 
#55
agedhorse said:
Out of curiosity, what do you think happens when you turn your amp down.?

Do speakers blow up with the most severe underpowering... the amp all the way down or OFF?

If you have enough power to achieve desired volume without clipping the amp, anything more is not being used and remains as headroom. A 100 watt amp into a 1000 watt cabinet is going to work just fine in a lower volume environment for example.

This whole underpowering internet myth needs to die a merciful death... just like mixing speaker cabinets with different sized drivers is always inferior... there are quite a few examples where different cabinets are designed to work well together and achieve something that is not possible with a single driver size/type. I have discussed this in great detail before, those that understand the engineering behind it have no problem with the practical applications but those who don't seem to perpetuate this myth. (Note that there are some combinations and tunings that do not lend themselves to doing this, but enough do that making a universal proclamation is preposterous)
Click to expand...

Very well said from a poster who is at the top of the field. This should be quote of the day. Multiple myths all in one post....
 
#57
jroget803 said:
Thanks everyone. I'm going to run this config by everyone.

Hartke LH1000
TC Electronics BC410 (500W) x 2

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

I'm glad someone threw the Hartke out there. I reckon this looks like a pretty good option for you. More power than you're ever going to require, a nice tube front end and some solid cabs from a reputable manufacturer. I also didn't know about the power balance feature. That's awesome to the point where I'm thinking about getting one now!

I'd suggest making sure you play that Hartke though just to make sure you favour the tone. I know a lot of players players here swear by that amp, but it does have it's own unique sound and it's not one that everyone is into.
 
#58
jroget803 said:
So, long time stalker, first time poster.

I need some recommendations. I've never bought a head and cabinet before, but it's looking like it's time. The combo amps just aren't cutting it for me anymore.

Here's what I want:

1 4 x 10 Cab
1 1 x 15 (or 18) Cab
1 Amp Head (1000 W or greater)

Any thoughts? Is Hartke overkill?
Click to expand...

I do think it's overkill, but so what. Invalid Link Removed is overkill for most venues, especially when you consider you'll usually just direct out to the board for most gigs anyway. If you have the money and want to spend it on that go for it. If you're not sure, just get the one cab and roll with it for a while then decide on the second later.

EDIT: I do like Hartke too and even still have my Invalid Link Removed. As mentioned they do have a unique tone, especially the aluminum/paper hybrid cones.
 
#59
If you go for the LH1000 with those cabs though I think you'll need to run in dual parallel. The TC BC cabs only come in 4ohm. You'll have to be careful though because there's only just enough cab watts to accommodate the 545w that the head pumps out on each side.

No sane person is ever going to need to turn up that high though so you should be just fine. That rig would be ear bleeding loud at about a quarter on the master.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back