It's not, the items where the seller accepted the offer still show the asking price
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Help me with this Rickenbacker
- Thread starter Komadinic
- Start date
Maybe it’s just the photo,but that e string looks huge. You should probably keep the gauge down to something like 45-105 max. I typically use 40-100 on my Ricks.
I find the classic dotneck look a lot more attractive personally.
Is the V63 actually a horse shoe magnet that can be "re-guassed" to improve output, or are the "shoes" just decorative over a standard single coil? I always loved the look of the split horse shoe, but never even SEEN a V63 in person, and believe me, I looked. If I came off as negative about the brand, I suppose it's partly justified, but don't get me wrong, that's a gorgeous bass I'd be proud to own. I hope you get it all sorted and flog the daylights out of it. Nothing like a Ric tone to put a smile on your face.
This one is. Apparently only the first year (1984) had them and afterwards they swapped them for the ones that can't be guassed. Take this with a grain of salt cause I'm not knowledgeable but that's what i gathered thus far. Thanks for the kind words
Some great advice here really and wish Talkbass and the internet were around when I played my Rick for 25 years beginning in 1972. Bobyoung53 and others gave great info how to properly adjust this neck and if I'd not used heavy gauge roundwounds on my old 4001 and used his procedure my fretboard likely never would have separated. Something else I would have appreciated knowing and might be of interest to the OP is the capacitor bypass which opens up the tone (and pickup power) of the horseshoe pickup. That little capacitor circled in the photo - if you run a jumper (piece of insulated wire) across the leads of that cap it will open up the tone. Many threads about "Rickenbacker tone cap" mod, but something I never knew about during my 25 years as a Rick player that would have made a big difference. After you come to grips with the truss rod and get to start playing something to consider. I didn't even have to solder the wire and just completed the circuit by wrapping a wire around both sides of the cap and "voila!" the sound of the bridge pickup was much more robust. The newer basses have the push pull pot to engage or disengage that cap. Good luck with your new bass and hope you enjoy for many years!
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Yes, from the looks of it it looks like it may take a while. could be weeks, who knows? Just take your time and don't force it but don't be afraid to turn the nuts either as long as you continue to take the forward string pulling pressure off the neck. If the nuts are still easy to turn you can turn them more than a 1/4 turn.
Thank you so much for this piece of information, so much valuable knowledge was shared here and I'm overwhelmed! I am truly not a competent person when it comes to electronics, don't know how to solder etc. Could you provide me with the link of what i need and explain to me like I'm a dummy? I kinda get the idea, but i am clueless as to which wire is which etc, I'll try finding a video on YouTube as well!
One thing that i didn't ask you is after i pull the neck and tighten the rod how long do i need to keep applying the force? Can I let it go immediately or does it require a minute or two to set?
That was a a eureka moment for me the first time I bypassed that silly cap (don't shoot me!
), I bought a brand new one in 1977 and jacked up the bridge pickup to try to get it to sound more full range but all it did was make it middy, I eventually gave it to someone I owed money to and didn't buy another one until sometime in 1990. I finally found out about the cap bypass mod during the early 2000's, what a difference. I actually figured out a way to make one of the tone controls become a cap control using the other tone control as a master tone. You could dial in as much or as little cap as you wanted to but if you dropped the volumes down it drained treble so it never caught on. I sold a 1978 Azureglo Ric 4001 with this mod in it about 15 years ago so if anyone here has one like it, it's most likely mine because no one else that I know of ever tried the mod.
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Once you're done turning the nut let go right away, you don't have to but but you don't have to hold the nut driver on the nut either.
That one cap I circled in the photo is the one we're talking about. You don't have to solder anything just take a piece of wire and wrap it around both ends. That will take the tone capacitor out of the circuit. You can leave it, take it off or go with something more permanent in the future like a push/pull switch, but for now I'd just wrap a piece of wire around it and see how you like the sound. No soldering, no muss, no fuss, just sound
Late to the party, and I'm not reading all eight pages. Have you posted this on rickresource.com to get all the experts' opinions? I agree: looks more like you got a helluva deal on a 4001V64.
I consider you a Rickenbacker connoisseur Bob
Nope, I've just owned a whole lot of them over the years and learned trial and error. I also play Fenders and Gibsons and love each of them for what they do.
A lot of us here are on Rickresource or used to be, I'm rictified over there although I don't post very often there anymore.
Yeah definitely a good deal, and I'm still waiting for their admins to approve my registration. I did trade a pretty unique hand made bass for it but i definitely came on top of that deal, taking into consideration it's the first year of production and the magnetic pickup bring ip it's value quite a lot I'd assume.
See GilmourisGod's post just below yours. Basically, you have to move the neck into position before adjusting the rods. This video shows the procedure (my personal approach is to adjust the nuts no more than 1/4 turn at a time; it may take overnight to see where you get and add more adjustment if needed):
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